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so, im on the dyno next Sunday/Monday

here is the spec

Blitz Nurspec system with Zisco Stainless Decat

Standard Manifold

HKS Actuator set to 0.8bar (Creeping to 1-1.1 bar)

JAM FCD

Saard FPR set to 3.1 bar (will be on by the time i get dyno'd)

HKS Mushroom Relocated to the front

Standard intercooler

HKS SSQV3 Dump Valve

Boost Restrictor Removed

Anyone got any idea roughly what power to expect. Engine is on 80k (miles) and is in generally good condition with regular oil/filter changes.

Thaks

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dude you really running upto 1.1 bar through the stock mani?!? have you had it ported or actually boosting with the restrictive 3rd runner?

well, thats what my boost guage shows. mani is on the to be ordered list, probably a zisco with ext wastegate

i have ported it, but it might of been ported back in japan (?) unlikely i guess

i only fitted a fpr yesterday too, and it did blow up in the year i owned it before

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i'd be super careful with that mani, obviously cant tell you what to do but if it where me i wouldn't be going anywhere near 1bar with the stock mani on. its not the boost that will cause the problem but the heat build up created through that runner, the build up of excess pressure and heat compared to the other chambers will completely foob the rings.

just a heads up man, would hate for you to have a rebuild on your hands over the sake of a mani and a couple 100 quid.

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i'd be super careful with that mani, obviously cant tell you what to do but if it where me i wouldn't be going anywhere near 1bar with the stock mani on. its not the boost that will cause the problem but the heat build up created through that runner, the build up of excess pressure and heat compared to the other chambers will completely foob the rings.

just a heads up man, would hate for you to have a rebuild on your hands over the sake of a mani and a couple 100 quid.

ive got it turned right down, its just creep that takes me that high.

which is why i want a zisco ext gated one, fix the creep and the mani problem with one part

two birds with one stone.

it will get orded next month

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ok heres the graphs

dc260b01ef8671.jpg

blue is the first run

green is after what he did what he could with my rrfpr.

but i really need a map, cause that fueling it well off.

also at 6k, i got a wierd misfire and a big bang. is anything particular happening at 6k? vvt or cams or anything?

if not ill check the usual misfire things, leads, cap etc. although it seems wierd :/

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cant really tell from the graph but from what i can see regarding your AFR's its going to 18:1 at 3000rpm... that's actually mental lean!!

you start at a reasonable AFR for idle but go silly lean, then it goes pretty smooth to redline, Contact the RR and speak to them about that bud.

Misfire will probs be leads if there old or other usual spark related things, cant see anything abnormal on the graph around 6k

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im currently talking to zisco to get a mani.

i really dont know what to do about that fuelling. basically the guy at the rr said that he didnt think they could do much.

he seemed to say that only a mapable ecu would be anywhere near sorting it.

i could put the rrfpr back to how it was before i went (2.8 bar on idle), then im fueling better.

argh, this stupid car.

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Every car is different and so are the ECU's.... my stock ecu fuelled my hybrid just fine but i had the other modifications to back it up.

Not sure what the guy at the RR did to change the fuel curve with just a RRFPR but he really muffed it up lol, was 100% better first time round... all be it very very rich.

You'v got a wicked car but imo your trying to run before you can walk, get all the bits you need to run higher boost then think about upping it.

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Every car is different and so are the ECU's.... my stock ecu fuelled my hybrid just fine but i had the other modifications to back it up.

Not sure what the guy at the RR did to change the fuel curve with just a RRFPR but he really muffed it up lol, was 100% better first time round... all be it very very rich.

You'v got a wicked car but imo your trying to run before you can walk, get all the bits you need to run higher boost then think about upping it.

well the plan is to:

manifold

and some sort of management. (blitz/jam ecu)

i have a HDI fmic on its way from Steve-GT.

With regards to the fueling, does everyone think I should put it back to how it was (test 1 on the dyno graph above), and although my mpg will probably be shocking, atleast it will tide me over til i can get an ECU.

Thanks

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change it back or pay out for a new engine, no way will your rings last with fuelling at 18:1. turning the boost down, or retarding the timing might help keep your engine alive aswell.

first thing i would honestly do is turn down the boost to stock safe levels though

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so, i had a play with a spreadsheet tool:

specsm.jpg

not bad, i wonder how acturate is it, looking athe speeds and rpms etc, it looks about right.

i think my leads and FMIC got here today, although i havent been home to check.

Also ECU will be ordered on the 20th of this month. so that should fix all my fueling problems right?

Also should be ordering manifold this month :thumbsup:

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well thats the plan.

go with the plugs

then that ive cleaned all the rotor arm etc, so then it must be fueling right.

then ill go for a some kind of ecu.

Just to clarify, if I fit an ecu, am i best to take the fpr off and put the standard regulator on?

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Depends what ecu you go for, if its something like an emange then keep the regualtor on as its stronger then stock... even if it runs at stock fuel pressure.

but if its something like the jam/blitz plug and plays they tend to work best with the stock regulator for some reason.

first off though i would try replacing the leads, plugs dizzy cap, rotor arm etc. cleaning them doesnt mean there not worn and past there best, look at the coilpack aswell.

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