*Zoe* Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Having some engine trouble but i can't understand why, my battery is around 18 months old, magnecor leads and plugs just less then a year old.this is the third time this had happened now but on Monday morning just would not start but electrics still started, not even a cough (it had been sat over the weekend because we went to Japfest in Lews car)Lew tried swapping the battery in the week with his and mine was pretty much drianed, still had enough to work the electrics tho.Put it back in mine and no dice, today we were going to try jump it to see if it was the battery or the alternator and low and behold started first time without the jump.Been told that it could be a faulty battery as the people i got it from say they have had a few returned recently with issues.I'm at a loss and dont want to shell out for a new alternator and it turns out to be the battery or anything else, any advice?Zoe xx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 You can check the alternator using a multimeterAnd check the battery too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnboy GT Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Mine did this. It was a worn cable for the battery terminals. Worth a look atleast? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james@cjperformance Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Check your earths Quote Link to post Share on other sites
*Zoe* Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 This is great thanks guy, ill get my earthing kit on today and check everything else. were did you get your terminals from if it is that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 With a multimeter Check the battery with the engine off, should read between 11ish and 12 (considering its fairly new) and with the engine running it should read about 14ish if the alternator is charging properly. Mine did this but it was because I'd drained the battery lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jtaylor1990 Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 I agree ^^No load voltage should be 12 - 12.5 volts and with alternator charging should be 14volts maybe a tiny bit more Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnboy GT Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Ha ermmm haven't replaced them yet as such. I just tidied up the connections a bit better but it hasn't ran much since then!John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
*Zoe* Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 ^^ lol well if you find where to get them let me know. Battery and alternator are fine.I tried to fit the earthing kit I've got but the battery connection is to big for my battery so aborted that idea until i can find a way to remove the cables and add to my current connector. Just going to have to not stray to far from home incase it has a fit lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 If battery and alternator are ok I'd say it's most probably a dodgey earth. You can check/clean up all the earths without using an actual earthing kit and it should solve the problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryan lang Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 have you checked the battery with a multimeter to see if its being charged from the alternator? check batt with engine off, then start the engine and it should go up to 14v.sounds more like a dodgy earth cable, mine was loose on the battery and every now and then popped off and used to cut out if i was cornering hard, tightened the connector on the battery, problem went the earth points are gearbox mount, top of the gearbox back of inlet manifold and on the slam panel iirc, just undo them all, wd40 the contact area's and end of wire connectors, wire brush them, and re-bolt them back up tightly. also check the entire length of each earth wire because if has worn to metal anywhere and touches the metal the earthing point may jump temporarily and cause it to cut out.you can buy the connectors for the battery from most motor factors if yours doesnt fit tidy that will also cause it to jump, for a temp measure, you can fold up some tin foil and wrap it around the terminal and tigthen the connector around that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnboy GT Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Hah it was not due to dodgy wiring it hasnt run. Its just veen off the road! As Ryan said thats a good way to check. When it did it to me, i left the ignition on and pulled at the battery terminal leads, i could hear relays clickin into life as i did it. So i tidied up the connectors, made sure everything was tighyt and it was fine after that. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
*Zoe* Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 checked it with a multi meter so i no there fine, and tightened up all the connectors to the battery.So it must be the earth's which i will try tinkering with at the weekend if the weathers good. Garage gave me a good idea on how to use my new earths and old battery terminal so hopefully its just the cabels but guess i'll have to see.Went to it last night and wouldnt start again so its having another fit pfff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 To me like an earth problem. Either that or the wire that goes to the starter motor has a bad connection. Rule of thumb.Everything off should be 12-12.5vWhilst cranking voltage should drop to around 9vWith engine running at idle with no load it should be around 14.4vEngine running and major power consumers on (rear demist, headlamps, wipers etc) should be no lower than 13.5v. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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