whitestar Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I tried searching here and GTT, but didn't find straight and simple answer.I need to install my HKS actuator, but don't have the instructions. I found this, it's helpful but doesn't actually tell everything.https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdfThe stock actuator has two vacuum lines. The other goes straight to turbo, but the other one. What should I do with that? I have removed the hi/lo boost solenoid restriction so can I just remove the other hose and leave it open, or do I have to bung it?All I have is this, not any other parts:I'm planning to turn the boost around 1 bar. The mods I have done by far are:Fujitsubo exhaust with decatApexi air filterJAM ecuBlitz BOVIridium plugsand I'm going to port the OEM mani.Do I have to think any other mods before turning the boost up (FPR, FMIC, fuelpump)? I'll get at least a boost gauge, but would a wide band lambda be necessary also? Is it possible that it will run lean on 1 bar if I don't have any other fueling mods than the JAM ecu? Will the OEM TMIC be sufficient for 1 bar? Othervise the stock internals should be able to last? I have around 148k km on the clock and the engine and turbo seem healthy. The car was totally stock when I got it so propably it hasn't been abused. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 You need a small plastic T piece to join the pipes ad port that mani and upgrade the fuel pump before setting the 1bar boost you need a good boost gauge to be safe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Is this T piece necessary? I think I read somewhere that it might not be needed if you have bypassed the hi/lo boost solenoid? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) Get rid of the other pipes all together. All you need is the short one from turbo to actuator.For a bar standard fuel pump should be fine and its unlikely it will run lean. Plug and play ECU's run rich to protect the engine.You will need a bigger Intercooler though id imagine wouldnt risk it on that tiny little thing. Id also uprate the plug leads. Get a boost gauge and preferably a wideband aswell just to keep an eye on the ratios since it wont be mapped your better playing it safe.Cant think of anything else but ask and ill help as best i can. Edited January 4, 2013 by StuDoc 72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Kind of a same situation in here, but I'm already running 1bar. I will change to an adjustable actuator after I receive it, but would it make sense to adjust it to 0.7 or 0.8 bar, because boost will creep up, so it would run near 1bar with creep, am I right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Depending on your set up. With a decat ported mani and port the wastegate you should be able to avoid creep. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Get rid of the other pipes all together. All you need is the short one from turbo to actuator.For a bar standard fuel pump should be fine and its unlikely it will run lean. Plug and play ECU's run rich to protect the engine.You will need a bigger Intercooler though id imagine wouldnt risk it on that tiny little thing. Id also uprate the plug leads. Get a boost gauge and preferably a wideband aswell just to keep an eye on the ratios since it wont be mapped your better playing it safe.Cant think of anything else but ask and ill help as best i can.Ok thanks! One more question about the nipple that is left open on the efi pipe. Should i bung it? I mean this one:The one on the upper left corner on the pic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) If you have the standard recirc valve then there should be a small pipe going from that to the nipple and that will block it. If not just block that off yourself.If you want to run 1 bar of boost though the EFI pipe ideally needs to go to allow you fo fit a front mount air filter. So a little relocation kit gets rid of all the hassle with this junk. Edited January 7, 2013 by StuDoc 72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 No I have a Blitz BOV. I've still got my AC on and planning to keep it (even though it's pain in the ass when doing anything in the bay ), so it's quite hard to relocate the filter. Any tips on that one?I tried to take off the excess metal pipe that comes from actuator, but the fixing screw is behind the power steering pump. I guess I'll just have to take the pump off to get rid of the pipe? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I asked about this as i wanted to do the same but in the end the ac had to go. How hot does it get in finland lol? Or is for clearing your windows?Yeah u can take all that out but u do need to remove the power steering pump it is very simple though. As for the efi pipe i assume your bov is directly onto the hot pipe? So everything other than the airfilter shud be blocked off. Normally the recirc valve is bolted on to the efi pipe. If you take a couple photos of your bay i can explain in more detail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hey, we are not living in igloos StuDoc! :-D Normally 20 to 35 degrees on summertime, so it's nice to turn on the AC and stop sweating in a car that has been parked on a direct sunlight for a whole day. :-)Whitestar, maybe this tutorial will help with the relocation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hey, we are not living in igloos StuDoc! :-D Normally 20 to 35 degrees on summertime, so it's nice to turn on the AC and stop sweating in a car that has been parked on a direct sunlight for a whole day. :-)Whitestar, maybe this tutorial will help with the relocation.Easy tiger I wasn't implying that lol I'm not daft. What i was saying is you guys are further north than us and our summers dont justify A/C jus put the window down.I considered doing it that way also but to be honest its not worth It just to keep the A/C you will find yourself ripping it out further down the line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Just joking :-)My car is in a "daily" use, so I personally prefer ac. Driving with a window down just gets you a neckpain because of breeze. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Lol yeah with everything its gonna be your own choice and what you feel comfortable with really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.