jackkelly Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Buddy of mine has a Glanza V.Over the last week I fixed a few things on it, one of them was a broken temperature gauge, and the other was fix the high idle. The car was idling at 1,300-1,500 rpm and I dropped it down to where it should be, 800-1000 rpm.Everything was ok but when the car was started up from cold it would misfire for around 10-15 seconds then be perfect, only happened after I fixed the idle, it got progressively worse over the passed few days.Today the plugs were changed and it is still getting progressively worse, it only happens off throttle or when the car is idling, as soon as the accelerator is pressed there's nothing, a while ago it just started to misfire up the revs in 2nd and 3rd gear when driven hard.After fixing the temperature gauge, around three days later we were parked outside the shop and the temperature gauge rose up and nearly went to the red, we knocked the car off and waited til it went cold. I first taught it was an air lock so I bled the cooling system and that sorted that out. Today the car over heated again. The car has not boiled over to the red and has not boiled through the expansion tank. Just went up to just under the red on the gauge. The car only over heats in traffic and as soon as the car is driven it will go down to normal operating temperature again.Any idea what this could be?There's an aluminium half-rad on the car with 1.1 bar rad cap.The fan is working as it should.There's 4 magnecore plug leads and one standard king lead but they're very old.Car is boosting .5 on a CT9 with a fmic.NGK heat range 7 iridium tipped spark plugs.No coolant in the car only tap water but it's only in around 3 weeks with the new half-rad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TurboTobz Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 I had a similar missfire, boosting up it was fine, took dizzy off it was worn and the carbon brush in the centre was jammed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Change the rad cap for a known working one mate. As above check the dizzy and rotor arm, might be worth changing the leads as well if they look old and tired. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 when the fan come on where is the temperature needle? does fan not keep the temp gauge at half way mark? have you changed the thermostat? put the car heaters on full heat at max fan when car start getting really hot and see if it make any difference. it should cool the car down or at least stop the temperature going up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
benglanza94 Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 (edited) Fan comes on when the temperature needle is on half way.Not really, fan comes on and off when car is at running temperature and above.Didn't look at thermostat yet. This morning the car over heated again, went and let it cool down and the rad took around 700 mls of water. After this we looked under the oil cap and there was a little white gunk. Never ever seen this on this engine before. Went and got a compression tester and the car read bang on 153 across ALL cylinders. Any idea what the hell is wrong ha. Thanks lads. Edited June 22, 2013 by benglanza94 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 check the bottom rad hose it getting hot when car is a normal operating temperature. also check radiator is heating up as it should be, top first. a thermostat is cheap part could try it and see what happens. the fan should come on when temp gauge shows a little over half way, fan should come on and bring it down. the white gunk is a little concerning but keep an eye on it, could be a little condensation or head gasket gone. because engine has overheated so many times it can cause head gasket failure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
benglanza94 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Water in combustion chamber of cylinder 3. I done compression test again today and cylinder 3 was 15psi higher than the other ones.I looked down the plug hole and could see water in the cylinder. I took out the plug and cranked the engine, water shot out and then I compression tested it then again and the third cylinder was only 5psi lower then the other cylinders? I'm 99% sure that the head gasket is gone but need a second opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Sounds to be pointing that way mate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
benglanza94 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Best thing to do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danza V Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) Best thing is to get it replaced otherwise things will only get worse mate, you don't want to end up compressing water a bend a rod. Plus leaving the headgasket too long will cause you to possibly warping the head, causeibg you to spend more money..Headgasket a become so common on these cars.. Edited June 24, 2013 by Danza V Quote Link to post Share on other sites
benglanza94 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 car is off the road now and head gasket should be done in the next week or two. thanks for the help lads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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