Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Currently having my 4efte rebuilt and was wondering what miles use guys advise oil changes?An as for oil, which is better for the bedding In period, mineral or synthetic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 (edited) im sure its meant to be mineral you use for break in. and for god sake drive it normally and dont pussy about while running in.lol Edited September 6, 2013 by mikey4410 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Haha! Ill be taking it easy the first few hundred miles or so anyway - below 3k that is.. Lol! How many miles do you run or how many oil changes on the mineral before switching to synthetic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Run the engine on Millers running in oil, can be had from Opie Oils. Here's what I would do to ensure you have good ring seal and reliable engine : Start engine for first time, set ignition timing, check for leaks etc and allow fan to cut in once. Ensure the idle stays around 1500rpm to increase oil flow around the entire engine. Drive the engine HARD for 20 miles, you don't have to thrash the engine to the redline, using 2nd, 3rd and 4th load up the engine upto around 5000rpm ensuring you work the engine. When coming back off load, use engine braking and only slightly on the brakes. After 20 miles change the oil and filter for more Miller running in oil. Again don't be a pussy with the engine for the next 150-200 miles, labouring the engine using the gears and engine braking.Change oil and filter again for some more Millers running in oil. Do upto 600 miles on this oil and filter.Change again for more Millers and filter. Do upto 1000 miles, change oil again for more millers. Then the last oil change at 1500 mile mark for your specified oil. The most important thing to remember when running an engine in, is to not allow the engine to sit at a constant speed, the engine rpm needs to be varied as much as possible. My way may be a bit excessive, and after 1500 miles I would remove the sump and remove all metal filings/shavings etc, in fact I would put a large magnet in the bottom of the sump to collect any swarf and this should be cleaned at the 1500 mile mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlancEP82 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 good write up man ^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 Wow thanks a lot dude couldn't have asked for any more than that! Awesome write-up!I usually run the GT on Millers 10w50 so I'm happy enough sticking with the Millers mineral. One thing I never thought about was removing the sump at 1500 to clean the shavings - thanks for that Magnetic sump plugs are a must then! Thanks ukso Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Use this oil matehttp://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspx Then at 1500 miles swap over to a synthetic of your choice Use a magnetic sump plug, but I find that they are way too small to collect everything, so putting a magnet in the bottom of the sump, something from a hard drive or off an old speaker/sub does the trick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) Will do mate thanks! What other synthetics would you recommend rather than the Millers range, what about Fuschs?Great idea! Plenty of blown speakers about!lol.. Engines all bolted up ready to go in tomorrow Need a new pulley though there was definately a little play in the bottom large one surely that's not right ? Edited September 7, 2013 by Ryan_EP82 GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 It depends on what the clearences and tolerences are like on the engine tbh, because the engine was designed back in the 80's to use on semi synth oils it has larger clearences. It is possible to run the engine tighter on clearences as specified in the manual though and you can use fully synth oils as they are generally slightly thinner. But looking for good quality fully synth based oils then something like Millers, Fuchs, Motul, Mobil are good choices. Heading in to the colder weather, if used daily I would use a 5w40. The woodruff key was put back in wasn't it? You can get larger sized keys which will take up the slack a little more if your that stuck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Great info again there Adam thanks! Well I'm 99.9% certain the woodruff key was put back in mate (can't be 100% if I didn't do it myself), but they are reputable engine builders and built my friends GT and my uncles vr6 a few months ago & theyre running fine! but I think ill give them a phone in the morning for my own peace of mind. But to be honest i think ill be replacing the pulley at this stage for a new one anyway since I've came this far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 If it wasn't built by yourself then I would expect whoever done it to use the correct size key to suit the application.I would always recommend using the stock pulley as its a harmonic damper pulley, would be fine to use a lightweight one if the bottom end has been balanced with it though, although I'm still not a fan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Yeah fair enough mate, stock it is mate there built to suit so they're the best fit imo. Thanks for all the info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Anytime Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) on first fire up raise the revs to 2500-3000rpm and run for 20mins. Check for leaks and issues the entire time. Don't let it settle below this or it'll start to glaze the rings. god tip about the metal filings produced by running in an engine, but this is why i supply and fit a high strength magnetic sump plug on all my engine builds i do. Something i highly recommend to all engines rebuilt or not TimTB Developments Edited September 20, 2013 by TBDevelopments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yaristurbo Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 on first fire up raise the revs to 2500-3000rpm and run for 20mins. Check for leaks and issues the entire time. Don't let it settle below this or it'll start to glaze the rings. god tip about the metal filings produced by running in an engine, but this is why i supply and fit a high strength magnetic sump plug on all my engine builds i do. Something i highly recommend to all engines rebuilt or not TimTB DevelopmentsMagnet from a zf auto box? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 no we have them made for us, just a straight sump bolt replacement with the magnet in the middle, but had alot of issues with the typical alloy ones on the market with people overtightening them and stripping the threads out so I've had these made in steel, zinc coated with a high strength magnet fitted in the middle. TimTB Developments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Wish I hadve known about your magnetic plugs Tim before I went an bought an alloy one. Thanks for the shout about raising the rev, another real handy tip cheers boys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Hello ryan not long now till my engines fully rebuilt and dropped back in, how did you get on with the running in process in the end? Would love to hear some feedbackThanks Pat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle_R Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I 2 would like to know how this running in process worked out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hi guys, I ordered a load of Millers mineral bedding in oil (ive still 2 unopened 5l drums if any of use need them) and I used Adams service times as a guide. I drove the engine hard rather than easy to bed everything in proper otherwise you can suffer from blowby, although to be fair I havent compression tested it yet.The engine seems very healthy and car goes like a rocket ship. For a bit of scope im running 9psi of boost with only a fmic and exhaust system and im bumper to bumper with a 250hp dc5 and a 277hp impreza so I cant see any problems as of yet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle_R Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) Pm me bout the oil pal let me know how much you want for it Edited April 20, 2014 by Kyle_R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Pm me too please mate if there's spare oil going tooThanks Pat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Hi guys, I ordered a load of Millers mineral bedding in oil (ive still 2 unopened 5l drums if any of use need them) and I used Adams service times as a guide. I drove the engine hard rather than easy to bed everything in proper otherwise you can suffer from blowby, although to be fair I havent compression tested it yet.The engine seems very healthy and car goes like a rocket ship. For a bit of scope im running 9psi of boost with only a fmic and exhaust system and im bumper to bumper with a 250hp dc5 and a 277hp impreza so I cant see any problems as of yetDo a leak down test mate, much more accurate than a compression test and will give you a percentage on how much gas is escaping from the cylinder Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks Adam will do, ill write up the progress on the leakdown test.Pms to you lads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Pmed back ryan mate 👍 Just wondering how many Miles I should be doing an oil change 20 then 50 then 100 then 200 then 500? Would like some feedback please Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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