Burt-21 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Right so a lot of you might not like this but I have a eBay ct9 hybrid yea I know some of you say there shit but it seems fine what my problem is it has an adjustable actuator on it but it going to 1 bar fuel cut not fun need to turn this down but would I be better to leave this actuator on it or put my hks on then ajust the boost cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Ct9s have a tendency to over boost as there pretty poop. Lots of info on this prob when u do a search man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Been looking most of the night just not sure what actuator to use as the one on the car is set to high and do t know if it's any good compared to the hks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris_GlanzaV98 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 if the actuator is adjustable then turn it down bit by bit untill you are not hitting fuel cut, failing that get it up to a tuner and have them sort it for you...a reputable tuner i might add Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 It's not the turning it down just want people views on using the hks to and unknown actuator what would be better as I have both Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Always worth a try swapping it over, doesn't take long to do. I guess if its creeping still the wastegate hasn't been ported which makes it a pretty pish hybrid imo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 How would I know if it has been ported any easy signs to lol for Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 You'll have to remove the decat and have a look at the penny and the port. I don't have any pics, but someone will probably have a pic of a stock vs ported wastegate port to show the difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ok I have checked the length of the actuator and 128 mm .5 bar as I have seen on here so I guess the next thing is to port the wg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ok I have checked the length of the actuator and 128 mm .5 bar as I have seen on here so I guess the next thing is to port the wg That's for an HKS and it is a guide, not definite. Try lengthening the actuator first, it is trial and error to get it set properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ok so make it long take it for a run and keep doing it till it holds at what .7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Yeah give it a try and see if it helps, see what it boosts in 4th too as it'll give you the highest and steadiest reading. 0.7-0.8 would be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ok mate what should it spool up at it a hybrid no fuel pump or ecu yet there coming tomorrow hopefully lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 hybrids should spool up quick if its based on ct9. only one way to find out lengthen the actuator & go for a spin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Just done this some more kicks in about 2800 3000 and was holding .9 no engine management or fuel cut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Sorry for hijacking your thread burt I have just swapped turbos on mine, I was told you set the wastegate to fully shut which would mean of course the actuator was alot shorter then on my other turbo actuator, so when actually setting the actuator on the screw bit should we be doing it so the waste gate starts of fully shut? Does this make sense guys? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 What you trying I do make more or less boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 My startet is almost done but at the moment the wastegate is set to fully shut, where as on the other one the car started boosting around 4 and a half k revs when I looked it was obviously the wastegate was set open from the actuator hence why no boost I take it at low revs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) You lengthen the actuator to reduce boost - the actuator arm pulls the wastegate flap closed with spring pressure and then pushes to open it when it starts seeing positive pressure and lengthens the arm. You are best to start with low boost and work your way up to set it, so start with a long actuator and bit by bit shorten it. Boost on a CT9 should be coming in at 2.5k rpm and be at peak boost around 3k. Edited December 24, 2013 by WallaceGlanza Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Thankyou for the reply Wallace that's what I thought so the longer the actuator is the more open the wastegate flap will be at the start I thought the wastegate flap had to be set to fully closed which of course will shorten the actuator where you adjust it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) I muddled myself up with my reply - see the edit! Yeah if you set it so when you pull the actuator arm it just reaches the wastegate flap and holds it closed, then lengthen slightly and adjust from there to get the desired boost level. When you shorten the arm you're increasing the spring tension so it takes more pressure to actuate and open the wastegate flap, it's obviously the opposite with the arm lenghthened so the wastegate opens quicker and makes less boost. Edited December 24, 2013 by WallaceGlanza Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burt-21 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 I adjusted mine by about 5 full turns and boost cause said it was about .85 .9 and holding not engine management or fuel cut is this ok or not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Thankyou so much guys for the info and burt in pm with the link makes a lot more sense now so thankyou so much I think I better adjust mine before it goes on the dyno to be set up as done a few bits to the furling etc, as at the moment I have set the actuator to to as short as it will go so the wastegate flap is shut tight Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 It does have to be fully shut mate as you have to preload the aactuator by twisting it in a few extra turns. This helps the turbo spool better as the wastegate wont open instantly with low pressure and release the air, it will require a bit more force generated by tbe turbo to open the waztegate therefore spool will be quicker. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 by the way burt anything over .85 will be dangerous without management or a fpr set up by a reputable tuner. If your hittin .9 an no fuel cut there must be an fcd fitted then, cpuld be dangerous if not checked Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.