brendonware Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 My car doesn't like to start most of the time!First start is the best chance I have, it will idle at 1500 revs but if I turn it off it most likely won't start again, and if it does it will rev at about 1000 and slowly make its way back up to 1500 revs. Would this be the thermostat? I just changed the spark plugs and the coolant temp sensors and it's not really any better.I just don't know what else to do, the leads look in good condition and I changed the king lead recently. I put a new engine in and the dizzy cap was unbolted so I bolted it back in the position it was before (I could see the clean spots where the bolts were), could this cause an issue?Once the car is started it drives fine with no revs issue, apart from a get a cheeky flame when changing gear :/ Anyone shed some light on this? I just want to drive my car :'( it's been months!!Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Leads. Dizzy cap. Rotor arm. Starter motor? Clean IACV just to rule it out. Just got to go through these things one by one dude. Buy some stuff from iddy as said above in the list. For stuff like this it's just a process of elimination dude. As for the flame, possibly running rich. I don't know, as I don't know your set up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Well the starter motor sounds like it's cranking over, the dizzy cap was changed with the new engine, had this starting issue with the old engine too :/ running emb mapped by td, what's the rotor arm(noob question). What about coil pack?Thanks mate!Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Do you have an adjustable FPR ? Just a guess here, but could be set too high, running rich, fuel flooding the cylinders, would cause the difficult starting issue and your flames on gear change. Also has the setup changed since it was mapped on EMB ? If it was my car i'd disconnect the EMB and see if it starts ok then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Yeah I do have an adjustable fpr but I didn't wanna change it as that's what it was set to I did think it could be over fueling. Do I literally just unplug the emb? And it should start ok? Thanks!!Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 The rotor arm is inside the dizzy cap, when you take the dizzy cap off, you'll see a red/brown kind of coloured plastic bit, it's like a 'T' shaped piece with 1 screw through the middle to hold it in place. Probably not the route to your problems, but worth a change over nonetheless I should imagine. Furthermore regarding the mapping side to things, I'd contact mike and explain the situation as it could be something to do with the map/fuel side of things, as suggested by Daniel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 First i'd check what the FPR is set to, but if it looks right ie between say 2.5 - 3.2 for example then leave it. I'd unplug it and see if it starts ok on the standard ECU, but thats just me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 But thing is all FPR's are different man, like the ebay ones. Can be running like 4bar of fuel and it will look way too high on the FPR itself, but on the dyno the fuel curve would be perfect! What fuel set up do you have dude? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Yeah i wouldnt suggest turning it down if its all mapped an shit, just have a look see what its reading (if you can start the car to check it ofcourse )My guesses are, cylinders flooding or EMB causing non start fault. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Yeah agree with the ecu bit anyway by unplugging it. Enough suggestions here to try and keep you occupied for a few hours lol. I would honestly speak to Mike too dude. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 My fuel pressure is set to 2.8bar, and i have the walbro 255 For some reason i always thought it could be flooding the engine as it smells rather rich! I spoke to mike about 2 months ago and he said for me to get the car to him and he would fix it at a cost :/ and put it on the dyno for a further £99. And me being a good 4 hours away from TD its not an easy job :/ he suggested a recovery truck to take it their but im not made of money When i get home from work tonight i will unplug the ECU and see if it starts (is it just unplugging the leads to the emanage? Not to point the blame at all but I never had an issue of starting when it was running on my old Jam ECU. its pretty much only been since i had it mapped. Cars pretty much been off the road since then for one reason after another (since october) What would it be like trying to start it on the standard ecu? surely it wont know whats hit it with the mass increase of fuel etc? Not sure if this is anything to do with my old engine breaking but by the time i took the old engine out it sounded like someone was hitting a hammer on my engine block repeatedly! lol Thanks for all the input guys! much appreciated! Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Farrell Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 im not sure if this will help but a friend of mine was having trouble starting his bike because the spark plug gaps were far too big, he says it runs so much better now that he has adjusted them. just thought it would be worth a try, dont think it will solve your issue but it might help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 I changed the spark plugs last night to another set i have, didnt really help, but does anyone know what the gaps are supposed to be and i can check tonight on the ones that i took off? Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I changed the spark plugs last night to another set i have, didnt really help, but does anyone know what the gaps are supposed to be and i can check tonight on the ones that i took off? Brendon 0.8 dude. Yeah unplug the emanage and start the car, don't drive it. Just see if it starts easier with the emanage unplugged. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) 0.8mm? the gap looks double that! Brendon p.s. on might just be my eyesight haha looks about 1mm will have to measure properly later! Edited April 19, 2014 by brendonware Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Got some videos of it starting and not starting unplugged the emanage and tried starting it 3/4 times and didn't get any luck :/ what does that mean? Will link the videos when they are uploaded!Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) This what im dealing with >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LPe2eRXTIU To be honest this video doesnt make it look too bad but i could be sat at a petrol station trying to start it for 5 mins! when it starts again you can see the revs around 1200 and slowly building up to 1500, which is where it should be on a cold start. Brendon Edited April 20, 2014 by brendonware Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 So someone else who had their car mapped at TD with Emanage blue is having the same issue as me! atleast im not in this alone! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Not doing to lie, mine did this the other day at the petrol station about 2 minutes, literally, from my house. Started up from my house cold, drove to petrol station obviously not up to temp. Turned off, filled up, paid, got back in and exactly like yours it just ticked over but didn't fire. I left it 5 mins and turned the key and it started first time like normal. Since then (Saturday) I have put fuel in the car twice and I didn't turn the car off while filling up just incase lol. But it's been spot on since and just like normal. I think it was where it was still cold maybe, I don't know. It's weird man!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie5414 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Have you changed anything else apart from the spark plugs yet (are these new spark plugs??)? Did you manage to read the gap they where at and adjust to 0.8 if they needed it? I would go through the list Rbz posted at first (buy cheapest things first) and work your way through them, if none of them fix the problem then it would at least narrow it down significantly. I spoke to mike about 2 months ago and he said for me to get the car to him and he would fix it at a cost This makes me laugh. What did you have done to the car there and when was it done? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jayc-glanza17 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 on the emanage u need to set the TPS settings correctly.. otherwise you get the symtoms you are describing.. GT and Glanzas ave different settings.. actually reversed.. so go into drop down menu on the emanage when your laptop is connected to it, go into PS and see the reading.. 5.00 and 0.00 are the values needed, select reverse or unselect reverse and see if this make a difference.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 The spark plugs I used were known working ones with the correct gap, I changed the temp sensors as people suggested that at first, but didn't change anything. I also changed the king lead, and map sensor. Also changed the standard ecu to a different standard one and tried with the emanage unplugged and it didn't start after about 4 tries I suppose maybe the leads and rotor arm would be next but it did this same issue on my previous engine which had a different rotor arm and dizzy cap? Not sure where to go from here! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 on the emanage u need to set the TPS settings correctly..otherwise you get the symtoms you are describing..GT and Glanzas ave different settings.. actually reversed..so go into drop down menu on the emanage when your laptop is connected to it, go into PS and see the reading..5.00 and 0.00 are the values needed, select reverse or unselect reverse and see if this make a difference..As I didn't map it myself I have never plugged it into a laptop! Is there a program I would need for this? As this sound interesting to try? Short of taking it back to tuning developments slightly unhappy I don't know what to do, it's been so long I would just pay someone to fix it! I had the mapping done in October and drove about 300 Miles since then. Td just fitted my boost controller, fixed my actuator and fitted and mapped my new emanage blue, only thing I have changed since then is put a new exhaust on it! Surely that wouldn't do anything? Apart from maybe back pressure?Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie5414 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Did you change any parts over from your old engine onto this? If you say above it was the same problem on the old engine^ ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brendonware Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 I used same leads from first engine and the same plugs (until I changed the plugs). All bay mods obviously stayed the same. I might just buy a new dizzy and rotor arm and borrow some known working leads just to rule it out! Brendon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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