jiggaman_16 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 (edited) Test fit Cradle partially made Edited February 16, 2015 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Williamtreacyboxy Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Im looking for 1.3 16v carb engine.if you know of any for sale thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Im looking for 1.3 16v carb engine.if you know of any for sale thanks not in the UK bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Getting there If one observes the pics from the previous post & the ones in this post, it can be seen that the tank was turned 180 degrees to take advantage of the contours of the EP82 trunk space. This way, i"ll still have the use of about 80% of the trunk floor space. The filter was easily mounted by making a pair of simple sheet metal straps bent to shape, drilled & then used self tapping screws to hold them down (seeing as the metal is fairly thin). 1/4" nylon hose & wiring from the pump & float switch were run using a 4 core cable from the back of the car to under the dash up front. Even though the AEM nozzle is advertised to have a check valve built into the nozzle, i got a universal solenoid anyway & mounted it under the dash. It's 12V powered & will run off the same supply wires that power the pump. A couple push-lock fittings were acquired to join 2 lengths of the hose being run to the front of the car as well as a 90 degree was obtained to make a change in hose direction after exiting the pump. This was done to keep the more delicate parts of the system out of the rest of the trunk space.Just a bung or fitting to be aluminum welded to the intercooler pipe & the controller mounted & connected to complete the system Edited March 8, 2015 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 soinstead of constantly borrowing a Greddy Support Tool cable to access the E-Manage, i decided to make my own. According to this tutorial http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-greddy-emanage-cable-from-scratch/, it's just a few simple steps. I purchased the convertor from E-Bay, fabbed up the harness & will soon get to testing it. The re-done intake pipe is now cmpleted with threaded ports for the IAT sensor & the Water/Meth injection nozzle. Installed & car has been driven. The three point strut brace is complete. Just need to drive the car with it for day or 2 before i give it a coat of paint. Made a false floor for the trunk as the OEM one had seen much better days. The Meth/Water tank,pump & filter mounting stand (or bracket) is complete. Painted & installed. The nylon tubing & the electrical wiring has been run, just need to get the controller in hand to install it. Finally found the Apexi turbo timer that was hidin underneath some crap. Will soon get around to wirin that in. dry testing the Meth system http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v605/jiggaman_160/20150304_143036_zps8dsyeeug.mp4 everything installed except the controller....gonna remove the front strut brace & spray it........considering white...may regret it but gonna do it rear strut brace is to be removed & cleaned off then sprayed as well Car now starts to miss at about 7 psi....AFR looks good at that point...... [help] the wire splicing (connections) for the distributor, coil pack & ignitor were soldered & heat shrink-wrapped so wonderin if i mixed up something at that point...... fuel pressure good at idle & rev..... Wrapped EP82 seats are complete by the upholstery man (although i got screwed for the second time with the same pair of seats [help] [help] [help]) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Finally done & fitted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Gonna pull the engine in a week or so. Tired of 5efe pistons nw. Broke ringlands on the original ones & almost sure the same thing happenin nw on a shaved set. Thats y i'm seekin a set of 4efte pistons for a rebuild. Anybody know what the resultant CR will be with a set of 4efte pistons on 5e rods in a 5efe engine? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sudden Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Approximately 9.1:1, forgot where I got that info tbh. Project looking awsome man. Edited March 19, 2015 by Sudden Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Cool man! White paint that rear brace to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Cool man! White paint that rear brace to thats what i'm plannin on bro.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 mental project you have there some great work done only thing i could point out is you have you helper springs on your front coilovers on the top there meant to be on the bottom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 mental project you have there some great work done only thing i could point out is you have you helper springs on your front coilovers on the top there meant to be on the bottom yup. realized that after a while....jus didnt get around to switchin them around......They're off now anyway, a set of Tein S-Tech lowering springs are on now....much softer in the corners (which gives a ton of bodyroll ) than i expected though although the reviews basically said the same thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 Did a little troubleshooting today & think i found out y the engine hunts sometime....to the point of shutting off. Thats why i stick to my claim that a FPR with gauge is a very good thing to have....i was speculating whether the problem was fuel related & so i checked the gauge wen it started occuring (at idle, sometimes the engine RPMS fall & rise steadily & also when coasting down at low RPMS, sometimesto the point of shut off.....no its not a vaccuum problem). The gauge shows 2.2 Bar dropping to below 2 on the lower part of the loping idle....... This means that the supply of fuel itself is unsteady cuz if it was engine or ECU related, the fuel pressure would be steady as the battery voltage is constant ( even on the low part of the bad idle, the fuel pump supply is still at least 12VDC since the battery is being charged (as there is good charging voltage 14.3 VDC). This led me to check the supply voltage at the pump. Since the car originally had a carbeurated engine (4EF), there was no fuel pump power supply wire so this had to be run since the new tank had an electric pump. A wire was run but now that i look more closely, it is a bit small to be running a pump for long periods of time (sometimes hours...) A check at the pump with just ignition on revealed 10.xxx VDC......... . I then started the car & behold, 11.8 VDC at the pump. I rechecked the battery, 14.3 VDC, rechecked the relay, 13.4 VDC, then back at the pump: 11.8 VDC Think i found my problem..... Will run a single heavier gauge wire tomorrow to see if problem is solved.......should be though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted June 14, 2015 Author Share Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) Sherona getting an engine & undercarriage wash in preparation for her clutch & pressure plate change...................15's never looked so good! Edited June 14, 2015 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted June 14, 2015 Author Share Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) A taste of Jamaican racing Meet 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO2u6iI23mU Meet 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzhTKqKN8xo Edited June 14, 2015 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 So the gearbox was taken out leavin this big hole in the engine bay The clutch, flywheel & pressure plate were inspected. No detrimental wear was seen. The old layed out beside the new [shutup], no, the replacements. Toothbrush, degreaser, garden hose led to this.... . Throwout-bearing has already been changed, rear crank seal changed (without taking out the retainer), clutch slave cylinder cleaned & re-greased. rack end boots are to be changed as well as the front rotors and i just need some time now to reinstall the gearbox...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 She's up & running. Tested her today. Car was actually fitted up back over a week ago but box was dropped back out as a strange sound was heard coming from the gearbox area. Two possible suspects were corrected & everything put back up. Tested her on the rd today & she's smooth as a whistle. Adjusted the Meth "start injection" point from 0.2 Bar (2.94 psi) up to 0.4 Bar (5.8 Psi) as she is tuned for 0.8 Bar (12 psi). This is indicated by the remote LED installed beside the boost gauge. Car never ceases to amaze me how fast the boost gauge needle rises, testament that a 5E with a TD04 is an excellent combination.Next?Road tune the Greddy Blue properly (now that the clutch isnt slipping & i have the correct size Meth nozzle).Next?Either compete at the next drag meet or just go hard & install the next turbo that i have. The exhaust system needs some work (addition of hangers, installation of two V-Bands & re-fabricating the section of the pipe that goes over the rear axle) but if i am to do this, then it makes sense to change the turbo at the same time.Will decide. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Happy New Year all [drunk] [drunk] [drunk] The new year started off on a slightly bad note for me as one of my fav set of rims popped up for sale, i hitched with the transaction.......& now they're gone However, some work has been done. The clutch & pressure plate kit was changed as the other one was acting up, very hard shudderin at move off & such...... so i stepped up.... Exedy Racing Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit Car now feels much better, bites well, moves off smooth except for the regular uprated clutch shudder wen u attempt to move off without the gas. Win. [thumbsup] I also did a very simple & effective mod. Uprated shifter cable bushings was done by changing from the OEM rubber bushings to bearings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191422972714?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT All for a grand total of $3.96 USD shipped to my door using the regular mail . The instant the postman dropped them off, they were installed. Others have done the mod & just reported a much better shifter feeling, no more slop in the shifter when shifting. Mine however is a bit different, the shifter is definitely solid, just a tad bit more solid than i had expected. They take a little encouragement for the bearing to fit in the cable's housing but its a solid fit. Definitely a good, cheap mod. Win [thumbsup] I intend on doing the following soon: Short shifter Mod: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=D+I+Y+Short+ShifterSugar Cube Mod: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/foolishness http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/45424-sugar-cube-change/ My oil cooler hoses ( water hoses) had started to sweat & leak so i did the wise thing & changed them. Less than 4 feet of oil-rated 1/2" (- hose did the trick (Hose Assembly & Supplies, $250/ft). The oil cooler was also moved from a horizontal position with the inlet & outlet on the underneath to a vertical orientation with the inlet & outlet on the side. Less than half the length hose, the right quality hose for the application, looks much neater. Win. [thumbsup] I had noticed that my engine-side engine mount had a smaller diameter bolt installed in it than the internal diameter of the engine mount's metal bushing. In other words, there was play in the engine mount. Supmn like this: So i found a bolt the right size (too short), measured the length, got the correct one at a bolt shop, intsalled & ok. Win. I'm now interested in poly mounts. I'm doin some research on a set for the control arms as well as i mite do the engine & gearbox mounts. The rear gearbox one was done solid by a guy in Mobay who builds them . Mine was baked solid, as in the entire space was filled & baked solid. Due to not being able to set the fuel pressure to the correct setting after changing the pump (wont go below 3.5 at idle), sometimes finding it at approx. 2.1 bar & the fuel pressure doesnt rise when the engine revs, an Aeromotive unit is on the way as well as some AN6 fittings. As a result, the AFRs were all over the place at WOT. It seems to have steadied since lately (11.6 - 11.8 @ WOT), so i drive easy but wen i squeeze, eyes hav to be on the wideband at the same time. Cant wait to get it as research has shown the SARD unit not to be a crowd favorite. 3" silicone hose as well as 3" inlet air filter on the way. Mesh scares me. Catch can is off to be modified to accomodate a big breather filter. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252117306276?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Edited January 3, 2016 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 A restrictor was installed in the feed line for two reasons. 1) Online research has shown that high oil pressure & volume to the turbo is one of the #1 one causes for oil to leak into the compressor & turbine housings. I thought my last turbo (TD04) was blown due to the fact that oil was definitely leaking into the compressor housing. Once when the intercooler pipe after the turbo was removed, a small pool of oil ran out of it as well as smears of oil could be seen at the compressor inlet. 2) Since a change of turbochargers, ( TD04 to a bigger unit) i have been experiencing a drop in oil pressure when the engine is warmed up & at idle. Also, after the installation of the AN-4 steel braided line to the previous TD04, my cold engine oil pressure sghot up to 80 psi at startup [crazy]. I was lovin this. However, after the installation of the Borg Warner, startup pressure was approximately 45 psi & warm idle pressure dropped to about 10 psi [worried] [worried] [worried]. I figured that due to this turbo being bigger & having a larger cartridge (CHRA), the internal passages would be bigger, thus creating less restriction & resultantly allowing less "pressure" to be present inside the cartridge, all this resulting in less system pressure. Picture a oil system at X pressure & then a new free flowing gallery is introduced. So with the guidance of http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction-turbo/2357-how-make-oil-restrictor-less-then-10-a.html & http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=DIY_oil_restrictor i made a restrictor. I ended up using a bolt because the bolt shop didnt have a set screw with the thread to match the tap that i had available to me. Turbo oil feed fitting Top view of fitting .... showing size of hole ..... ignore dirty hands : Bolt was cut leaving a small piece of the threaded shaft, 1/8" hole was drilled & then a slot cut so a flat tip screwdriver could be used to install it It was installed, oil pressure observed & ................ didnt reall y help much, oil pressure is up by a couple psi but not out of the worry zone. Some folks use a 1/16" restrictor but i'm a bit iffy about that one. We'll see .................... The catch can has been removed (again [whistle]) to fabricate a bigger & probably better unit. 3.5" inch diameter, bout 6" tall, bigger filter (44mm inlet), probably 3 inlets this time instead of two........... A new piece of the puzzle has been acquired. An Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator has been received & the fittings slowly trickled in. Two AN-6 90 & 45 degree barb type fittings are still on the way (cheap parts from China can be a fool sometimes, free shipping & ting but the wait [wallbash] [wallbash] [wallbash] [wallbash]) I always plan for the drag strip & it tends to fall through but i'm resilient this time. Once the FPR is installed, the intercooler piping needs to be removed to check for leaks as well as the downpipe removed for porting & grinding down a few rough edges left from the fabrication work done when it was knocked up. A check on the E-Manage & Sherona should make her official Vernamfield debut next month. Also have some used 23.5x9x15 rubbers on the way to get some much needed traction. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Parts parts parts Theres nothing as pleasing as acquiring new parts especially when they are obtained at a low price ..... on Ebay ....... with free shipping to Jamaica ........ straight to the post office or u gate ...... no Customs involved DIY catch can Version 1 Search high & low & obtain a piece of 4.5" stainless pipe, slit it & remove a piece to get the desired 4" diameter, tack it, obtain old stainless steel sign, mark out circles, cut out circles, tack onto canister / cylinder, clean up edges, to be continued ............ So bcuz i wanted to go big boy catch can style, i ordered a big enough (according to oil catch can standards) breather filter. It is actually a motorcycle engine air filter but works just fine for this application. Bcuz of a budget build aimed at simplicity, careful scouring of the net led me to getting the breather filter seen earlier in this thread. However, after receiving it, i realized the shape of it didnt really appeal to me. So i re-ordered one from the UK (free shipping of course [applause]) & exactly 9 days after, its at the post office. Point to note: when ordering simple stuff online from Ebay, if the item is available at the regular www.ebay.com, just make a search at www.ebay.co.uk to see if it's available in the UK. If so & the price is right, i almost guarantee you it will be delivered to Jamaica in half the time or less than it would take from Japan or China. Just try it. First breather filter vs. new breather filter Funny enough, its pretty bigger than i thought when i saw it but ..... go hard or go home [eyebrows] [eyebrows] [eyebrows] The top cover of the can just needs to be completed now & it will look like a much cleaner version of this The last pieces of my Fuel pressure Regulator puzzle arrived today. The Push on AN-6 90 & 45 degree fittings landed at the post office . So all the parts together looks like this: I made one mistake though, when ordering the AN fittings, i didnt specify them to be the ones that come with O-rings so im gonna link Bearings & Seals or one of those places for two O-rings. I reall y need this to be done as the car leans out under boost & upon checking, i realize that the fuel pressure gauge randomly reads 2 Bars & sometimes 2.5 Bars at idle. When raised to above 3, it falls back down & sometimes the FPR just wont take any adjustment. I hooooooope thats the Sard FPR acting up & not the pump or anything. Edited February 12, 2016 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Oil catch can in progress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
samurailos Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Jamaican here, nice build bro, keep it up, i have an ep82 with stock 4efte turbo, fun cars. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Big up Samurailos, show us wats up with the machine. Catch can is 80% complete. from this to this to this Diameter is about 4 inches, height about 6 " or so, filter pipe diameter is 1.73". Just need to weld on 2 or 3 inlet pipes to the can & a mounting bracket, then spray it. I'm thinking a dull black, maybe the wrinkle type. Wat u think? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) So the spacers were moved from back & fit on the front to accommodate the slicks, car was test driven on them & lo & behold, they had a problem. Even just after moving off & before getting up to speed, a terrible wobble was felt. The whole front of the car wobbled & the steering wheel just oscillated quickly from side to side. This was a no go. I decided to drive the car to get a little heat in the tyres to see if they were just cold or supmn, still the same. When a passenger held her head out & observed the tyre, the wobble could be seen & it felt even worse at higher speeds. Bcuz this was Saturday afternoon, i had wrk in the evening & Vernam was Sunday morning, i just had to abandon them & wrk with the street tyres. The seller has been notified & he promises to work with me to rectify the problem. I'll be carrying them to an alignment stand today to put them on the balancing machine to see what is really what. I actually tried a launch on them but the car felt down on power.More on that. Bae was washed & vaccuumed Sunday mornin as well as the little last minute things ( my friends left Mobay & reached before me leavin from Kingston ) I drove there, stripped out the front seat, tool box & spare tyres & set out for my first time slip with the turbo setup. Experience teaches wisdom is such a true saying. This generally saves time & MONEY over a long term & it rings so true for us car guys. A little history on Sherona. The car was initially turbocharged with a TD04 turbo & a eBay civic exhaust turbo exhaust manifold modified to accept the 4E/5E cylinder head flange & the Mitsubishi TD04 flange. The car was up & running, went well but little problems normally popped up just before a drag meet so i never got to attend an event. I eventually got tired of the rush of the TD04 as well as what i thought was an oil leak from the compressor housing was bcuz of a lack of a restrictor in the oil feed line. I happened to get a bigger turbo, a Borg Warner GM5. The compressor housing was pretty big but this is a little less of a concern for a car engine. The turbine housing however was fairly big, (no marking on the back housing & very little info on the internet led me to find out it was about a 0.60 size) but not too big for a medium horsepower car engine setup. So i decided i would try it. U can probably guess where this is heading. Back to Vernam. I got thru for Q7, lined up, did a nice lil burnout, staged & left the line. One thing holds true in drag racing especially for a noob or a driver with a new setup. When you finish the quarter mile, no matter how fast the car feels goin down the track, no matter what time u think u did, it always ends up being a lesser time than you thought. There was a a lot of wheelspin on moveoff so i feathered it, car bogged down then eventually picked up, boost reached 6 psi & the meth kicked in & she began to haul, rowed thru the gears, crossed the line, spun & collected the slip. 15.3xx at 80 supmn mph ......... This is wat i worked so hard for? This is wat i boosted my car for? This is what so much money went into? The flaw in my setup was beginning to show ........no, was being confirmed at this point. The less experienced of us read & hear about big turbos really spooling on late & a few of us actually felt it & know. This was my revelation now. The car only began to haul when the methanol kicked in. I decided what the heck, i'm here already, not much changes can be made at this point so just run it. Lined up again, remembered that feathering due to wheelspin normally causes a loss in overall time & speed , so i decided to hammer it. Went out again, this time launching at a slightly higher RPM & holding it & she went a lil better this time. Shifted like a bat outa hell (the 5 speed blacktop LSD box allows you to quickshift like a hot knife through butter), went thru the line, spun & collected the timeslip with a 15.0xx at 90 supmn mph ....... better than before but still disappointed. Qualifying was still open so i had the choice to go again but carefully thought about it. Run again, get a slower time, . Run again, quicker time, high in 14 sec class, non - competitive, . Work with it ...... ..... might as well. So i just parked the car until eliminations. Didnt touch a thing. I had experience with eliminations so the technique was nothing new for me. Lined up with my worthy opponent Simon Smith in a blue DC5-R. Launched the car but for some reason this time, Sherona bogged after the launch, dropped out of boost, waited on the buildup, but as you know by this time, the K20'd R was long gone. 15.4xxx sec :p Lots of observation & experience me taught me a number of things. 1) Honda heads have a high flowing characteristic, Toyotas such as the E engines dont. A turbo manifold designed for a Honda has some big runners sized roughly correctly for a Honda head. Stick that on a Toyota E series engine with mild head mods (only Acoustic cams in my case) & your dead in the water. For our setup (E engines), a smaller runner will work wonders. I looked at Puffy's car (previous world record holder for quickest 5E at 10.xxx sec) & a few other starlets. I had bigger runners than most if not all of them. 2) The next thing was the piss poor collector on the manifold. It was like a bloody bowl in there. The design totally kills flow. had i known better at first, i would have skipped past this manifold & moved on to a manifold with a narrower angle collector. 3) Turbo with too big of a turbine housing. I need to go no further with this one. Maybe i do. I borrowed a boost controller to try to reign in the wastegate as we deduced it was bleeding off boost early while the boost pressure approached the rated pressure of the spring. This helped somewhat but not as much as we hoped. The turbo pulls pretty good when the engine is at speed & especially up in RPM but the 16psi it was set at didnt feel like a hard hitting 16psi. Again ....... not enough exhaust gas flow from the engine to really get the turbo feeling ballsy .I know for a fact that the car would have been faster & DEFINITELY run a lower time if i still had the TD04 on. The big runner manifold with a nicely sized turbo is OK but the big runner manifold with the big turbine housing is a from a medium flow engine is a really bad setup. I have decided on a different exhaust manifold & a turbo more reasonably sized for the engine. I'm eyeing a TD05 16G. If these changes can be made on a budget, then they will be done in time for the next meet as i've put a pause on major spending on Bae. Priorities are at hand. Y do i say bittersweet? We all know turbochagers are power adders. Idiots know that. I dont need a timeslip to prove it, but nature humbles u sometime & shows you the basics. My best time N/A was 16.0, my first outing boosted is 15.0 sec. Yes, the turbo proved that it makes the car go faster but for the setup, i thought it would be way faster. Low 14, high 13. I know mods are capable, just that the Kool Aid wasnt mixed right this time around. In the meantime, she looks pretty good on the line & my favorite Edited March 29, 2016 by jiggaman_16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Checked out the slicks & wheels today. The rims were bent as hell. Carried them straight bk to the guy i bought them frm who accepted them without complain. Bugger knew wat was up all along even tho he say he didnt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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