fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Will be servicing the gt soon and have the strobe light to check the ignition timing, will i have to bridge the pins on the diagnostic box ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 yes and revs at 750rpm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi colin Te1 and e1 pins, same as glanzas? long time ago i done this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 thats right i only said about the rpm if the icv is fucked and doesnt drop the revs then you need to do it manually Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 timing ten degrees before top dead centre. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 thanks guys, i think my icv is a dead one, no ticking and no clicking sound from it, have a few lying around so need to dismantle and check. is the 4efe/5efe/5efhe use the same icv ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 check my threads. I did a tutorial on cleaning icv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 5efhe is a diferent 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 thanks mikey, i did watch your tutorial a few times so i dont mess up lol ok colin, will have tostrip few to see which one works or should i just delete it alltogether Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 personal preference really mine had had idling isseus sinds the day i got her then opted out to just delete everything on the intake just have brake vacuum and map vacuum / then used metal putty to fill up the holes in the tb and deleted the water passage going to it o almost forgotten have 1 more boost pipe connected to operate my acis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eng Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hi if the Te1 and the e1 are not bridged, what are the possible causes of damages in the engine? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 your timing will be set wrong and in real life be to far out cousing failure 1 day while boosting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 I changed the icv valve and idling issue with lights/heaters is fixed also checked timing with them bridged and it was abng on where it should be with idle at around 800 rpm thanks for all your help guys most people go to garages and just time up with out bridging the pins, that was my fear but looks like it has been done properly in the past Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nano Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 When I rotate the distributor te1 and e1 are bridged? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nano Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 When I rotate the distributor, te1 and e1 are bridged? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 bridge first then rotate and check with timing light mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Revs shouldn't be too critical as the ecu locks the timing when in diagnostic mode. If you rev it the timing should in theory stay the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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