jon_84 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I've recently got my new starlet, its a 96 glanza v on 59000 miles. Completly standard apart from hks exhaust although not for long! Last night i tried swapping the two pipes over to bypass the solenoid which restricts boost in 1st and 2nd gears. The difference at first was impressive with a stronger pull from the word go, however after about 2-3 minutes at around 4000rpm an engine warning light came on and then went off followed by jerkiness under acceleration from the engine. The light went off but then came back on again later, so we did what any proffesional mechanic would do and removed the bulb and tried again, yet more hesitation, we drove it gently 2-4000rpm with less than half throttle but no change still hesitant, swapped them back and it was fine.I was confused as everything on the car is in good condition and its running on vpower so whats going on? Could it be detonation, or timing or something up with dizzy cap, rotor arm or spark plugs.Just wondering if anyone has experienced this as i would really like to run the car without this restrictor in place, any help would really be appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 What you've just described, sounds very much like fuel cut.Allthough its strange that its hitting fuel cut with just an exhaust system.Are you running an induction filter?Also do you have a boost gauge fitted? If so, watch the gauge carefully and if its boosting over 0.7bar, it'll definately be fuel cut.Fuel cut is in place to stop you from overboosting and damaging the engine.Best bet is to fit a boost gauge to check the boost and let us know.The boost might be creeping up slightly due to cold weather. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Sounds like fuel cut to me too. Covering it up by taking the bulb out the dash certainly isn't gonna solve anything. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 It didn't feel like anything major, no knocks or bangs and everything was smooth, just lacked constant acceleration. Going to do spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm and change oil just to be sure. There isn't an induction kit on it at the moment but i will be getting one hopefully in the next few days. What i will do is get a boost gauge, have a swap around with the pipes and see what readings we get then let you guys know and hopefully we can go from there. When the pipes were swapped over it did come on strong and it was a very cold evening so perhaps the fuel cut is the issue. If that is the case is it ok to run it or will it run lean and detonate? Also someone said that when you swap the pipes not to drive it hard? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Have a look in our HOW TO section, and look for my how to remove the boost restriction,Double check that the pipes are swapped identically to how it states in my guide bud.You dont want to hit fuel cut often, its a quick way to damage youre engine.You wont make any difference from changing the oil and playing with the spark plugs/dizzy unless the engines miss firing.Which its not.If it idles fine, and drives fine untill it boosts up, then its a fuel cut issue.The cold air has probably made the boost creep slightly to fuel cut level.Best thing to do to youre engine before anything else , is to a: fit a quality boost gauge, and b: fit an adjustable actuator such as a hks item.The actuator will allow you to set the boost just below fuel cut level once you have a boost gauge fitted.Et voila no more fuel cut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Right i've put that bulb back whilst i was fitting the boost gauge, and now fitted a blitz bov. The warning light is staying off so far, and at 5psi the car is fine however it tops out at 10psi which is when it starts to judder so i'm guessing fuel cut. The other night when it was very cold the boost went up to 12psi promptly followed by the dredded judder. This is with those two pipes in their origional position and i haven't swapped them over again yet so the max boost is 10-12 at the moment. I've just ordered an hks fcd so hopefully that will solve the problem, it does fit with the standard pressure type fitment or is it the wire afm? http://www.jdmperformance.co.uk/item_detail.php?prodID=1816 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Bad idea, you should get an adjustable actuator and set the boost just below fuel cut.Quick way to blow youre engine is to fit a fcd bud.Is hitting fuel cut for a reason if its standard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 yeah fit an fcd, smash it upto 2bar, you'll be fine, not a problem.also, the bloody search button is there for a reason Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 dont bother with the fcd bud, please dont fit it, send it back and get a hks actuater.an fcd will lead to more truble, if you bypass fual cut the ecu canot compensate the more air coming into the engine, there for it will go lean and you could melt a piston. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 you might have a boost leak? mine was overboosting when i first got it and it turned out to be about 3 separate leaks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Share Posted February 4, 2008 I'm not talking about raising boost past 10-11psi, it's juddering as standard. So i'm trying to stop that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joe-ep91 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 When i took the boost restriction off mine (glanza) the engine management light came on (Not the oil light which is what i thought it was at a 1st glance) I have left the boost restriction on since then mate. Let us know when you get it sorted out as I'd like to know what to do. Joe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 Will let you know what happens, still waiting for it to arrive should be today or tomorrow. Its currently back to normal but still insists on cutting in on standard boost. Why would you lower the boost below standard? Thats fairly pointless, whats the point in having a turbo if the car doesn't even run properly on standard boost? Why not just take the turbo off and run n/a just in case the engine breaks. Ok so worst happens something breaks, we take it apart and fix it with stronger internals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Will let you know what happens, still waiting for it to arrive should be today or tomorrow. Its currently back to normal but still insists on cutting in on standard boost. Why would you lower the boost below standard? Thats fairly pointless, whats the point in having a turbo if the car doesn't even run properly on standard boost? Why not just take the turbo off and run n/a just in case the engine breaks. Ok so worst happens something breaks, we take it apart and fix it with stronger internals.Stock boost on hi is 9psi not 10psi plus, any breathing mods you've done or have ie filter exhaust, will increase the boost. The stock actuator is crap at holding boost so changing to an hks one will give you more control over it, we're not telling you to run lower boost than stock.Whats the point in asking for advice if you're just going to do what you think is right, go fit your fcd and rebuild the engine for fun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 Yes Dear! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jon_84 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 Right fitted the dredded Hks fcd last night which was easy and took about half an hour, went out for a drive and set it to 2, it holds 10psi perfectly, the boost restriction in 1st and 2nd is still on but the juddering even at low rpm/boost has gone and its so smooth all the time now, no overheating issues and as far as i can see everything is ok. So problem solved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Right fitted the dredded Hks fcd last night which was easy and took about half an hour, went out for a drive and set it to 2, it holds 10psi perfectly, the boost restriction in 1st and 2nd is still on but the juddering even at low rpm/boost has gone and its so smooth all the time now, no overheating issues and as far as i can see everything is ok. So problem solved.You've set it at 2?! Was that by guess work? The normal setting for a starlet is 8, 7 if your running a lot of mods or high boost.The fcd alters the pressure signal from the map sensor sent to the ecu so that it see's the boost as being lower than it actually is which means it will lean out the air fuel mixture more, if you get any boost creep you will run majorly lean and pretty much definately do some damage and you won't know this by looking at the temperature gauge. I would've first tried to find out why the car was juddering like you say it was, your just masking the problem fitting the fcd, ot solving it.But hey it's your car, you know best... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 I would seriously listen and take Wallace's advice mate.If you fit a fcd with no alterations to the fuelling, and it boosts even slightly higher than standard it CAN damage youre engine.Listen to what myself and others have said, take the fcd off and purchase an adjustable actuator first!FCD's are wank anyway even when run with regulators/pumps.Like i said, as well as Wallace, if its set on number 2, and you take the car out for a spin on a cold night for example, and it boosts higher due to creep or just the fact that the airs colder and denser...The fuel cut wont be in place, and the fcd is not set correct so you can and more than likely will damage the engine.Get saving them pennys for some new pistons bud.Yank the fcd off, check for leaks in hoses, bent actuator arm, anything and everything to get it running standard boost correct before you add anything or alter the engine.Once you fit new items and electronic gubbins, it will just cause you more headache trying to trouble shoot the main problem which is the fuel cut!OR you just do what ever you think is correct and post back here when you need advice on how to rebuild the poor thing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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