Running in question

[koolza132]

I am going to get my car forged in the near future and i have read the running guide by a few a different people what im confused on is at the moment my car is mapped to 1bar on EMB, once the engine is forged and put back into the car do i run it on the manage blue at 1bar or do you unplug it and run it off the standard ecu? or what I'm confused .TIA

[ro55ifumi]

I did the same, the advice when running in is use the e-mange set up as above but you will get advice as to what revs/boost to use at various mileage up to the 1000 mile mark, as well as when to do the oil changes.

Who is forging the motor?

John

[koolza132]

So basically just plug all the loom back in and run it at the setup it was on just not run as high boost? A company Called KAD (kent auto developments) they build racing mini's and track cars and have built a few forged 4EFTE's before i just supply the parts they build, there local to me which is what i mainly wanted due to oil changes and them knowing the engine etc. Any advice?

[jimmymac101]

There's a nice KAD forged gt on TGTT

[Ollieh17]

You should really get the map on the emb adjusted to the newly built engine if it was mapped on the previous engine

So beat running it in on standard ecu then get the remap when its ran in

Edited February 24, 2015 by Ollieh17

[ro55ifumi]

Start engine first time, 10w50 mineral, don't just leave car running on idle for an hour do 5 miles around the block with a good bit of boost (doesn't mean high revs) to flush metal deposits. Stop, change oil over use same again and change filter, this maybe done by your builder?

Do 100 miles, same again, change oil over use same type of oil again and change filter.

Do another 400 miles, same again, change oil over use same again or you could go for a 10w40 and change filter.

Do another 500 miles, so 1000 total, change to your preferred oil, change filter and off you go.

Rev wise just don't go mad for the first 500( Not above 4000 revs) but at the same time don't pussy foot around you need to bed the engine in. If you don't go past 2k for 1000 miles and then suddenly pull a 7k launch the engine won't know what hit it It's important to bed the rings in so don't over load the engine letting it labour in gears.

Speak to your builder they will advise you on all this mate, once run in back to your builder for a remap an enjoy

John

Edited February 24, 2015 by ro55ifumi

[koolza132]

Ok i have just spoke to my builder and they said they will run the engine to make sure theres no leaks etc before putting it in the car, then they will run it in for a while on there Dyno which can only be mapped up to 250bhp anyway then they said they will give me there car and let me finish in the running in process and then once its fully ran in to take it to some where with a bigger dyno to get the final map

And i see the car on TGTT I'm basically following his build lol and the company seem really good and helpful

[RobSR]

I do it completely different to John, similar oil changes tho.

Like said don't leave it idling for ages - does it no good.

I use a decent amount of revs - Upto 6k off boost when running in engines with lots of engine braking to get the engine heat cycling. TRD did something similar with their engines, but in a dyno cell. They would use Upto 75/80% of Max revs.

Using revs is better at getting a good ring seal than boosting it straight away. Running in engines this way also keeps them 'loose'. Looser engines make more power!

I start introducing boost at around 500 miles after a few oil changes..

Edited February 24, 2015 by RobSR

[AdamB]

Run it in the way the engine builder says to. Reason being is that if there's any warranty you may void it. Secondly they know the tolerence the engine is built to. Three they know what oil should be used. Four they know any machining tolerences.

Long and short of it is, do it the way your told if someone else is building it.