Whitenoize Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) Ok so I think I have a problem with my fcd I know they aren't great but it's what I've got so I'm rolling with it... Basically when I got the car it was only boosting to .5 I turned the boost up to 1 yesterday now when I put my foot down it goes up to .8 fuel cut kicks in a tiny bit eml light comes on then I presume the fcd is taking over and the car boosts right up to 1bar .. Anyone got any idea why fuel cut is kicking in at all? it seems like there is a delay in the fcd taking over could it be because I don't have a fpr fitted and the car isn't getting a enough fuel to run 1 bar but then again I thought that was the point in the fcd that it tricks the car into thinking it is getting enough fuel ?? Edited August 24, 2015 by Whitenoize Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Anyone any ideas ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Which fcd do you have? They are not worth the risk you got a different fuel pump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) Yeah I know they can be a bit dodgy abut also know people that have run them for years with no major issues when set up properly.. I got the car for next to nothing so just trying to make it work with what I've got it's an hks one dude any yeah mate got a walbro fp Edited August 24, 2015 by Whitenoize Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I would buy a decent fpr and go for a dyno run to tweak, the fuel curves obviously changed and you might not be getting enough fuel causing to make it lean the last thing you want is to detonate the jam one's are meant to run the best from what I have read in the past as there preset either way we both know plug n play or custom maps gunna be the best for the engine.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 I would buy a decent fpr and go for a dyno run to tweak, the fuel curves obviously changed and you might not be getting enough fuel causing to make it lean the last thing you want is to detonate the jam one's are meant to run the best from what I have read in the past as there preset either way we both know plug n play or custom maps gunna be the best for the engine.. yeah I understand that mate just want to get it running as good as possible without spending a lot of money on it as the car isn't really worth spending much money on tbh will get a fpr on at the wkend and see how that goes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Whats the code thats in diagnostics after the light comes on? 34? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Whats the code thats in diagnostics after the light comes on? 34? I havnt checked the code yet dude the eml light goes out again when I turn the ignition offa d on again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I would check to make sure the wires are connected right read that settings 12 at one bar was meant to run fine with a fpr.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 If the light goes away it will likely just be 34 which is just map limit. My guess is the fcd needs adjusting to clamp at slightly less voltage so map limit isn't read by the ECU. It's probably right on the limit currently Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 ok cool thanks for the help I'm going to get a fpr and leave it in to get put on the dyno and set up properly I think seems like the best option Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 ok cool thanks for the help I'm going to get a fpr and leave it in to get put on the dyno and set up properly I think seems like the best optionEither that or a bit of ghetto tuning depending on how much you dont give a fuck if you kill it!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 I just turned the boost back down to .7 and it's fine must be a problem with the fcd loose connection or something Or not wired in properly.. When it's hitting fuel cut its not full on fuel cut just a little kick if you get me then boosting on up to 1bar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Either that or a bit of ghetto tuning depending on how much you dont give a fuck if you kill it!! I don't even want to spend 80 on it for a fpr that's how much I don't give a fuck about it lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I don't even want to spend 80 on it for a fpr that's how much I don't give a fuck about it lolHaha fair enough! You'll be able to pick up a used sytec one for 40quid or something. The fprs on ebay are just cheap chinese dog shit and dont actually adjust fuck all they get stuck at 4bar so avoid them anyway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Haha fair enough! You'll be able to pick up a used sytec one for 40quid or something. The fprs on ebay are just cheap chinese dog shit and dont actually adjust fuck all they get stuck at 4bar so avoid them anyway was just looking at the ones tuning developments sell its a full kit kinda thing with a gauge to adjust it and fuel rail adaptor I might just rip out the fcd and boost controller and keep it at .7 rather than spend money on it 😂 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 was just looking at the ones tuning developments sell its a full kit kinda thing with a gauge to adjust it and fuel rail adaptor I might just rip out the fcd and boost controller and keep it at .7 rather than spend money on it This ^^ may aswell have a car you dont give a fuck about that works than one you wish you had given slightly more fucks about that doesnt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 This ^^ may aswell have a car you dont give a fuck about that works than one you wish you had given slightly more fucks about that doesnt.I give zero fucks and keep breaking engines in my starlets was just looking at the ones tuning developments sell its a full kit kinda thing with a gauge to adjust it and fuel rail adaptor I might just rip out the fcd and boost controller and keep it at .7 rather than spend money on it The TD fprs look suspiciously like the dog shit ebay ones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 This ^^ may aswell have a car you dont give a fuck about that works than one you wish you had given slightly more fucks about that doesnt. it just seems a bit pointless having a ct12 turbo on the the car and all the other bits to not take advantage of them by running standard boost levels I give zero fucks and keep breaking engines in my starlets The TD fprs look suspiciously like the dog shit ebay ones do you think mate I know they arnt branded but didn't think they would sell just any old shit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 it just seems a bit pointless having a ct12 turbo on the the car and all the other bits to not take advantage of them by running standard boost levels ct12 is better for low down revs anyway its not any better up the rev range than ct9 so I wouldnt worry about trying to get the most out of it. I know you dont want to spend money but IMO buy a P&P ecu for 450-500 run that then sell it when your finished with the car. In the 7 years ive had a starlet I've never seen the price of P&P ecus change so you wouldn't lose any money on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 ct12 is better for low down revs anyway its not any better up the rev range than ct9 so I wouldnt worry about trying to get the most out of it. I know you dont want to spend money but IMO buy a P&P ecu for 450-500 run that then sell it when your finished with the car. In the 7 years ive had a starlet I've never seen the price of P&P ecus change so you wouldn't lose any money on it. p&p wouldn't work dude the car is an auto that's another reason I dont want to spend money on it lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 p&p wouldn't work dude the car is an auto that's another reason I dont want to spend money on it lolYou can get AT plug n plays Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 You can make a manual ecu work on an auto, theres not alot of difference. I'd just see if that fcd has an adjustment screw to slightly lower the clamp voltage - its almost there so will need minimal adjustment Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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