Mr. Chem

There aren't many intercoolers that will fit without chopping the bumper somewhat. The problem is compounded if you are looking to retain your a/c. Arc top mounts are direct replacement and a lot thicker than standard. If you are planning on running mega boost though I'd recommend a front mount.

Bump

Here's a subtle mod courtesy of MCM I gutted a shift light I bought off eBay and mounted it behind my rev counter. This worked ok for a while, but was very patchy. I then had a brain wave. Using a flexible led strip normally used for Audi style drls connected to the shift light electronics, I ended up with the below: http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/FA68F37A-00E8-4734-A36E-8E9FC243F6ED-11261-00000134A7A19BC2_zpsc0b12b04.mp4.html

Decat is sold

Please check your PMs from myself.

Still have the ARC, and pm sent to blackmar

Because that would be far too easy! Thicker cores are more efficient, so it's future proofing. Plus got the hdi for a good price.

Have purchases a few bits for the V. One of Wepr's ct9 OEM manifolds to remove the 3rd runner restrictions And a gizzmo ms-isc ebc to give better boost control when I start pushing the limits of the standard turbo. This will allow me to have multiple modes so on the daily drive the boost can be turned down to save wear etc. I'm hoping for some good weather end of October to get the brakes finally sorted.

Yeah I still have the decat and I could post to Devon buddy

Thanks buddy

Yeah its your one buddy. If you could post those photos buddy that would be great I do

It's called camera+ for iPhone. The really good pics are from friends with proper cameras and photoshop lol

Cheers guys. Mods are on hold for a bit now until half term. The brakes are up for renewal next, as they are rubbish. Got a full set of OEM discs pads and bearings to swap in as well as braided lines. Then once the discs are bedded in, I'll find some harder compound pads.

The ARC served me well. It's a great bit of kit And unlike most things it's a direct fit!

Day 3: the home straight. All the hard was finished, the final steps was to refit some items and to finish the tidy up. Earlier in my build thread I fitted a temperature sensor, and I wanted to swap this into the FMIC piping. However, as always the gods conspired against me, and the metal sensor snapped off and fell into the depths of the cooler piping. Desperately I shoved my magnetic pick up tool into the pipework, but to no avail; the sensor was non-ferrous. Crap. And so began the labourers task of yet again removing the bumper and pipes to retrieved said sensor. Many blue moments passed,

Day 2. The face off between cooler core and bumper. You can see them squaring up to each other, trying to psych each out. No scutch this time (he'd had enough) but peachy returned to help. The plan: refit the bumper over the enormous hdi core. Weapon of choice: Dremel. The arena: my driveway. Basically the cooler bent me over. The plan of attack was to remove pieces of the bumper little pieces at a time. This was complicated by the OEM frontlip, which is made of very thick plastic and is bolted to the bumper. The cutting eventually started to yield results. The casualties? Half the w

These were the led side lights 181084108916 Now the problem I have had with all my cars is I get them to a state where I am happy with them, then I get this itch were things tend to get out of hand. On my old VWs that was never a problem due to an abundance of cheap parts on the second hand market, however with the glanza, there is still an abundance of parts, but they are all new and shiny (relatively). Hence things have moved on a bit.... Now I have been getting used to the car, I like the "soft" springs it is running, but it really under steered on the limit. I saw whiteline rear anti rol

Duly noted

Gear knob is now sold

Are you sure? The lambda should be mounted at the top of the down pipe and the wire runs along the right side of the engine

Item For Sale: ARC intercooler Item Condition & Description: This is a genuine cooler, and makes a great upgrade for the standard top mounted interwarmer. There are a few bent fins from where it has touched the inlet manifold but they do not affect its operation in any way. It holds pressure great. I was seeing 0.9 bar. As the casting on these is a little rough, it has been sanded to smooth it and I have painted the end tanks with very fine aluminium paint which improves how it looks but do not affect its efficiency. Includes the silicon joiners I was using. The front brackets have bee

Could be an exhaust leak from the manifold or turbo? Is the manifold cracked at all? The heat from the exhaust could be causing the crack to open when hot, which may be why it's ok when cold.

You can actually get all 4 bolts attached to the cushion. For the drivers, if you dremel the little nodules off the stop on the front two bolt holes, you can flip them and they line up with the holes in the cushion. On the passenger side the front holes are static, so some strips of thick steel can be used to allow the brackets to reach the bolt holes.

Just got back from meeting Matt and his dad. Top blokes and you better hurry if you want to see his mint Clio Williams

Try replacing the bulbs anyway, sometimes they look like they haven't gone but in reality they have. Did you test the bulbs across a 9v battery? If you have one lying around its an easy way to check.