Mr. Chem

There are four bulbs behind the speedo. Two 501 and two 286. It's probably the 501s that have gone. As for you interior light, if the bulb is ok try the fuse called "Dome" found in the drivers footwell fuse box. Failing those its a loose connection at the light, which does plague some cars.

It's just on some lowering springs. I think they are pi but as I didn't fit them I'm not sure. I don't actually run HIDs, those are my LED sidelights but a long camera exposure.

Some local cube's....

Its a thule roof rack, same one that fits the UK 3dr starlet. 761 bars, 754 foot pack, 774 short roof adapter and 1041 fitting kit. The fairing was a US import. I have Thule 591 cycle carriers to carry the bike. Cheers man. Finished adapting the seats to get them a little more secure. The drivers seat was easy as just had to flip two brackets, whilst the passenger I had to add a little steel, but so much easier given they were already on starlet rails.

My friends and I have just been to Dorset for a camping trip, and the Glanza didn't miss a beat. Even loaded to the brim with beer and tents it still did 43 mpg. Immense. My friend is a bit of a photo fiend, so here are some of the latest from Dorset. The night shot impressed me the most. And to all the unscrupulous types out there, remember this is not the Glanza you are looking for. Future plans for the car include to sort the brakes (OEM replacements and HEL lines are waiting in the wings) Handling (RARB, Anti Lift kit, strut bracing) More powa (Adjustable acutuator + mani

The final few things I have been doing were my engine bay, turning it from the dirty mess it was to something a bit cleaner. In the process I went back to the airbox, but smoothed out all the fins on the inside. The colour chosen to paint the bay was a colour of my own creation to match the greddy type s bov, and is pretty much spot on. Blue hoses then replaced all my lines, and some sanding and polishing fixed the metal work. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/F5751854-33D2-48D5-948A-9443ED0B47A5-1603-000000EA36283706_zpsf295d5f7.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/u

I was happy with the way the car was going, but it wasn't fast enough. I bypassed the hi/lo solenoid to combat this, but would hit fuel cut every so often. Step forward a JAM Racing ECU. I though the car was fast before. Fuck me is it fast now. So much more savage up the higher revs. A Tegiwa brake stopper was fitted in preparation for a brakes overhaul. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/94EF9AA8-009C-4552-A484-4638E82A7751-2437-00000149A65D98A7_zps09a73723.jpg.html'> The previous owner had fitted some rather garish carbon effect Glanza stickers to the car, and ha

Before long the need for more powas began to bite, so some engine stuff started happening. After a JDM-reg meet, a greddy type s found its way onto the car. Next was to improve the cooling. Now I am a bit of a tart and want to keep the air con and the full size rad etc, so a front mount at the moment is not on the cards. Instead, I found a ARC from Mr. Lang and fitted that instead. My mates have helped me along the way loads along the way. My talents lie more with the detailing and simple wiring. A tegiwa rear tow hook was added to the rear that day. And an aluminium he

Hi chaps, I've been a long time lurker, so I thought it was about time I put together a build thread for my Glanza. Before the Glanza I had a Mk3 Golf My mates belonged to the JDM-register club, so when the time came to replace the Golf, they convinced me to go with the Glanza. Scutch who is on here helped me find a suitable car. In the end we found a clean 98 spec car in white that had only been in the country for a year. The guy selling it wasn't the most aware of individuals shall we say, but the car checked out and it had some nice optional extras to go with it. Reflet rear li

PM sent regarding Tongs

Cheers Stu, I have sent him a message.

Hi Guys, I'm preparing to up the boost on my CT9 to 1bar, and am wanting to make sure that the 3rd runner restriction doesn't cause things to melt that shouldn't. It has been suggested that the WEPR CT9 manifolds are amongst the best. I've been on their website, but there doesn't appear to be a way of purchasing a manifold? Do we have to go through a UK distributor or something? Any advice would be greatly received.

Still looking for some 98 spec dials (White faces/ red needles)

speedo converter is now sorted. Still looking for some White 98/99 spec dials. Thanks

I'm after a speedo converter and some white 98 spec dials, as my 98 currently has 96 spec dials with a dodgy face them. Cheers

Some stereos I've found have permanent live remote cables for some reason. Does the battery still go flat if you disconnect the remote? You do really need to check the alternator is outputting enough voltage though. Anything less than 13.5V is bad

Grab a multimeter and find out

What is the condition of the battery? How many volts? What is the voltage when the car is running? It may just be coincidence that the fitting of your sub has coincided with a failing alternator/battery

The tegiwa is more of a pain to fit than they would lead you to believe, but it can be done. I found this guide on toyota gtt useful http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Fitting+Cusco+Brake+Master+Cylinder+Stopper+BMCS but its is for a cusco. Here are some pictures of my own set up: To get this to work properly, you need to modify the tegiwa slightly. Firstly the tetris shaped part needs to be drilled out to accomate the bolt they supply. Also, the slot on the other end of this piece needs to be enlarged slightly. Now this tetris piece fits onto the engin

I'm after a drivers side door hinge for my V. Mine is white but I'm not too fussed on colour as I can paint it. Mine has a lot of play in it which causes the door to clunk in the shut. The less sloppy the better. Thanks

Hey chaps, I'm rigging up a shift light set up in my 98 Glanza, and was hoping there is someone out there who can give some advice. Does anyone know which wire at the clocks is the rev signal wire? I'm aware of the IGN+ signal at the diagnostics plug, but was hoping there would be one a bit closer to home. Cheers

Kelvin has nothing to do with power, it is only colour temperature (i.e. how blue it is) Aim for 6000k as this is closer to what OEM hids use and is most effective. Anything too blue will be rubbish as soon as there is any moisture in the air. Power output is measured in watts (35w/55w etc)

Hey bud, glad they got to you ok. Looks like a nice place to start

Hi Chaps, I'm looking for an uprated CT9 hot pipe to suit a top mount. Something like the cusco. Cheers Mr. C

110 clocks are normal ep91 96 spec clocks with a 110mph dial face added.