Mr. Chem

There are four bulbs behind the speedo. Two 501 and two 286. It's probably the 501s that have gone. As for you interior light, if the bulb is ok try the fuse called "Dome" found in the drivers footwell fuse box. Failing those its a loose connection at the light, which does plague some cars.

It's just on some lowering springs. I think they are pi but as I didn't fit them I'm not sure. I don't actually run HIDs, those are my LED sidelights but a long camera exposure.

Some local cube's....

Its a thule roof rack, same one that fits the UK 3dr starlet. 761 bars, 754 foot pack, 774 short roof adapter and 1041 fitting kit. The fairing was a US import. I have Thule 591 cycle carriers to carry the bike. Cheers man. Finished adapting the seats to get them a little more secure. The drivers seat was easy as just had to flip two brackets, whilst the passenger I had to add a little steel, but so much easier given they were already on starlet rails.

My friends and I have just been to Dorset for a camping trip, and the Glanza didn't miss a beat. Even loaded to the brim with beer and tents it still did 43 mpg. Immense. My friend is a bit of a photo fiend, so here are some of the latest from Dorset. The night shot impressed me the most. And to all the unscrupulous types out there, remember this is not the Glanza you are looking for. Future plans for the car include to sort the brakes (OEM replacements and HEL lines are waiting in the wings) Handling (RARB, Anti Lift kit, strut bracing) More powa (Adjustable acutuator + manifold first, later maybe hybrid turbo and front mount as necessary). Thanks for reading. It's a long one. Thanks buddy. Wheels were a different choice, but I love them, and most people agree they suit the car well.

The final few things I have been doing were my engine bay, turning it from the dirty mess it was to something a bit cleaner. In the process I went back to the airbox, but smoothed out all the fins on the inside. The colour chosen to paint the bay was a colour of my own creation to match the greddy type s bov, and is pretty much spot on. Blue hoses then replaced all my lines, and some sanding and polishing fixed the metal work. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/F5751854-33D2-48D5-948A-9443ED0B47A5-1603-000000EA36283706_zpsf295d5f7.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/7D58CCEB-0A49-4178-809E-D0C258C95A32-1603-000000EA7B7BF67E_zpsc704cd97.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/A5BEFE7F-6686-4C9E-BE89-D75366ED6F74-1603-000000EA8064ACB7_zps2b7246a0.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/A9903523-BA60-4129-8CDA-A65D2E633860-1603-000000EA85677AB6_zps6f030d13.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/7A314ED9-C14B-4468-BEDB-0AF8A371938D-1603-000000EA8A6FED29_zpsd63727f5.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/A8530F69-1817-4995-94AF-C124D0BE72E9-1603-000000EA8E5EBEBD_zps9d63c4ed.jpg.html'>

I was happy with the way the car was going, but it wasn't fast enough. I bypassed the hi/lo solenoid to combat this, but would hit fuel cut every so often. Step forward a JAM Racing ECU. I though the car was fast before. Fuck me is it fast now. So much more savage up the higher revs. A Tegiwa brake stopper was fitted in preparation for a brakes overhaul. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/94EF9AA8-009C-4552-A484-4638E82A7751-2437-00000149A65D98A7_zps09a73723.jpg.html'> The previous owner had fitted some rather garish carbon effect Glanza stickers to the car, and had not removed the remaining adhesive that held on the originals. I had planned to remove the stickers altogether, but the paint underneath has reacted, so some OEM style black replacements were sourced. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/81CD1851-57A5-4008-9F78-E14B7EAA6D31-1603-000000D901133053_zps671563c2.jpg.html'> And thats kind of been it, just been enjoying her. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/D01CE700-ED63-4C70-87A8-4E7BEF9AED4D-1603-000000D8E1CEF1BA_zps79469c06.jpg.html'> And playing with a new camera app. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/88368D28-C949-41B4-B5AB-FE885F237B9E-1603-000000D8F49DCCF1_zpsbe58f62f.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/A2F2CFE9-AFB9-4C56-94BD-609481FE7424-1603-000000D8FAA60E64_zps783c9b3e.jpg.html'> My plan since fitting the JAM was to improve the efficiency of the ARC, and this was carried out in a similar way to the scooby boys. I mounted 3 Hozelock mister nozzles in my scoop, and a washer bottle with pump in my boot. These were linked up to a switch on the dash that would spray cold water onto the intercooler. Alongside this I mounted a intake temperature gauge fitted to after the intercooler. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/8961D587-936B-4ACC-B5D4-F044F3334161-1603-000000EA4E8D4ED3_zps0e5df44b.jpg.html'> http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/E79611B1-1759-4595-A4B1-5E1231508F2B-1603-000000EA5BDA6062_zps4f24fc19.jpg.html'> The spray pattern is pretty decent, and is a proper mist too. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/3AAE91A7-1184-437E-AAD8-E5A66A013AF7-1603-000000EA49C862AB_zpsc6f97794.jpg.html'> Now if you look very closely at the exhaust in the first pics, it sits very far inside the rear valence. When I fitted my decat, I was getting real problems with the heat of the exhaust and the unburnt fuel messing with the paint work. Looked like the flexi had been crumpled a little and the exhaust had been fitted in a strange way. This also caused a fouling issue with the floor. The solution was to length the mid section of the exhaust slightly, and whilst I was at it, the mid box was deleted. Is now uber loud and gurgly!!!! Love it. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/4E3AB108-CF25-4711-B35F-9F6E39B6B4DB-1603-000000EA73D0BED5_zps6ea57030.jpg.html'>

Before long the need for more powas began to bite, so some engine stuff started happening. After a JDM-reg meet, a greddy type s found its way onto the car. Next was to improve the cooling. Now I am a bit of a tart and want to keep the air con and the full size rad etc, so a front mount at the moment is not on the cards. Instead, I found a ARC from Mr. Lang and fitted that instead. My mates have helped me along the way loads along the way. My talents lie more with the detailing and simple wiring. A tegiwa rear tow hook was added to the rear that day. And an aluminium heat shield made for the apexi So this is how the engine bay stood, function without the form lol. I like to cycle in my spare time too, so I got a roof rack for the Glanza along with my Thule Fairing from my VW days] Now we all know that dash speakers alone are pants, so I sourced this JDM Alpine speaker shelf which used to grace a mate of mines car. The speaker cones were absolutely trashed, so these were replaced with Alpine 6x9s. I swapped out the blue lights in the alpines for red, and the results were pretty awesome. The car then received its first machine polish, which was reasonably successful. If anyone else is looking to polish their own car, be aware, the paint is very thin and very soft, and is incredibly easy to burn through with even a moderate pad and polish.

Hi chaps, I've been a long time lurker, so I thought it was about time I put together a build thread for my Glanza. Before the Glanza I had a Mk3 Golf My mates belonged to the JDM-register club, so when the time came to replace the Golf, they convinced me to go with the Glanza. Scutch who is on here helped me find a suitable car. In the end we found a clean 98 spec car in white that had only been in the country for a year. The guy selling it wasn't the most aware of individuals shall we say, but the car checked out and it had some nice optional extras to go with it. Reflet rear lights, clear 3rd brake light, genuine rear lip, duck bill and front lip. Extras that had been added when the car was imported included Defi gauges(!) unknown lowering springs, and HKS Silent Power Exhaust, as well as these rather odd looking alloys wheels which were made in Korea. The body of the car was pretty straight, although the paint was a little dull and the headlights yellow and pretty scratched. One of the first things I did when I got it was stick on an apexi air filter to hear a bit more fluttering. And I invested in my first rare part - the anodised blue Oil cap from Zep racing (courtesy of Socks) I have a machine polisher (DA) which I have been getting to grips with, so I fixed my headlights. Before After Huge difference in performance now. Next step was to get rid of those horrid 14" KDM wheels, and on the cards was a set of lightweight wheels. I set my mind on some Lenso Samurai Spec C Wheels. 15", 7J and very light. Apologies for the crap pictures, taken with a cheap phone. A mate of mine helped me tint the fog lights too, and with the cleaned headlights make the front end look so much nicer The car originally came with a sex aid Razo gear knob, so this was swapped out for a TRD job The plan to start of with was to swap the standard starlet seats out for some FTO seats, but at the last minute the guy started being a dick, so I got some Gen 7 Celica seats instead. They are so much more comfortable and supportive. Big thumbs up to Rich for helping me with these. They were sold to me under the pretence that they would fit straight in. Kind of.... The seat bases were on Glanza rails, but only the back bolts "done up" (I use that term loosely.) Rich (Scutch0) helped me make some brackets that allow all 4 bolts to be used, and thus are much more secure. Along with a GT centre arm rest, so much more comfy! A punto rear wiper made a great addition to the rear

PM sent regarding Tongs

Cheers Stu, I have sent him a message.

Hi Guys, I'm preparing to up the boost on my CT9 to 1bar, and am wanting to make sure that the 3rd runner restriction doesn't cause things to melt that shouldn't. It has been suggested that the WEPR CT9 manifolds are amongst the best. I've been on their website, but there doesn't appear to be a way of purchasing a manifold? Do we have to go through a UK distributor or something? Any advice would be greatly received.

Still looking for some 98 spec dials (White faces/ red needles)

speedo converter is now sorted. Still looking for some White 98/99 spec dials. Thanks

I'm after a speedo converter and some white 98 spec dials, as my 98 currently has 96 spec dials with a dodgy face them. Cheers

Some stereos I've found have permanent live remote cables for some reason. Does the battery still go flat if you disconnect the remote? You do really need to check the alternator is outputting enough voltage though. Anything less than 13.5V is bad

Grab a multimeter and find out

What is the condition of the battery? How many volts? What is the voltage when the car is running? It may just be coincidence that the fitting of your sub has coincided with a failing alternator/battery

The tegiwa is more of a pain to fit than they would lead you to believe, but it can be done. I found this guide on toyota gtt useful http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Fitting+Cusco+Brake+Master+Cylinder+Stopper+BMCS but its is for a cusco. Here are some pictures of my own set up: To get this to work properly, you need to modify the tegiwa slightly. Firstly the tetris shaped part needs to be drilled out to accomate the bolt they supply. Also, the slot on the other end of this piece needs to be enlarged slightly. Now this tetris piece fits onto the engine mount bolt. You will need two m10 bolts and it it like this: The other piece goes to the bracket supporting the power steering line like so: Where the two parts me, they look like this: Hopefully you will find this useful. I always find pictures help.

I'm after a drivers side door hinge for my V. Mine is white but I'm not too fussed on colour as I can paint it. Mine has a lot of play in it which causes the door to clunk in the shut. The less sloppy the better. Thanks

Hey chaps, I'm rigging up a shift light set up in my 98 Glanza, and was hoping there is someone out there who can give some advice. Does anyone know which wire at the clocks is the rev signal wire? I'm aware of the IGN+ signal at the diagnostics plug, but was hoping there would be one a bit closer to home. Cheers

Kelvin has nothing to do with power, it is only colour temperature (i.e. how blue it is) Aim for 6000k as this is closer to what OEM hids use and is most effective. Anything too blue will be rubbish as soon as there is any moisture in the air. Power output is measured in watts (35w/55w etc)

Hey bud, glad they got to you ok. Looks like a nice place to start

Hi Chaps, I'm looking for an uprated CT9 hot pipe to suit a top mount. Something like the cusco. Cheers Mr. C

110 clocks are normal ep91 96 spec clocks with a 110mph dial face added.