turbominicooper

Yeh that was my thinking to. Will do data logger and see what's going on

Think I'll get this on the go and see what exactly is going on https://youtu.be/YfbG_h_PlrE

What dyu reckon colin do it the crude way with some management to lean it out?

Ait seems ok was giving a reading but the connector was faulty so have swapped a newer one on to it. Now there are 0 faults when I bride diagnostics port.... however it does repeatedly flash??

Yuh I'm literally testing each sensor but I know they should b ok as they all ran prior to installment. Just checkling map over now. Gives me: 5v input 4.5v signal disconnected Good ground Then 2.6v signal connected. Go's up to 4v with pressure injected Only diff is starting voltage between my 2 maps I'm trying with. Will look at ait next...

Managed to find the range and the sensor is working 100% even traced all the wires to and from the ecu. Really stuck here guys car is running rich and can't drive it at all. Have looked at: Ecu Ect sensor Plugs Wiring All that's left to workout is if it could b related to some rogue wiring left over from 2ee setup?? http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/106810-sensors-on-water-housing/#entry1219562 Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Bit more investigation and the wires that came off this sensor are black/yellow and red with grey dots. Tracing them leads to a plug under the manifold that used to go to a sensor on the 2ee on the underside of the manifold. Strangely if I put the red cable direct to positive the starter motor turns?? Does anyone know wht this setup is? The brown sensor that used to be in the no.1 slot looked like a switch type ie when the engine is hot the sensor engages whatever it is connected to. I'm starting to think this is the cause of my rich running turbo conversion http://www.ukstarletowners.c

Right car is sorted and running again however still rich. I've tested the sensor and it reads 2.29 off car 1.85 body temp 0.20 in a boiling pan. Does anyone know what the range should be? I think the sensor looks ok so is it possible there's a broken wire somewhere to the ecu, would I be safe to make a slit to get a reading the ecu end? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It's an earth wire coming off the coil pack resistor I think. I just bridied it to the manifold for earth and it runs with it

I think it's the way you've advertised it with the dodgy welding and the screamer coming off the manifold like that. It would b easier sold if it was ready to bolt on but does need work to either function externally or internally gated. Saying that what is your lowest need to sell price?

I just did this conversion too and got it running straight away however after running a couple of times the basted decided to not run anymore. I basically had to re trace all wiring, ecu points, timing, plugs... the lot and then it ran again. Don't actually know what caused it but just overhaul the lot again https://youtu.be/Sv0Riyu0SZ0

Cool crisis averted. Cheers chaps

No it was a brown plug with 2 wires on it

so on a NA that doesnt have aircon what would 1 be?

Random one but on idle should the Dv be open slightly and producing a little breeze? To me it doesn't sound right but when I disconnect the vacuum off the manifold the Dv shuts and no longer 'breezes' however then I have a manifold leak unless I plug the vacuum but then ultimately I have no Dv?? I never really looked or thought about it, only noticed it when I was focusing on a sensor right by it Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Chaps Please confirm what each sensor is on this pic: 1: ? 2: water temp 3: dash gauge 4: fan switch Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yuh cool will do them tests but now I'm at a total loss where I've lost all spark and can't get the focker started now. Went over all wires, ecu, timing, dizzy so thinking something custom has come loose. Will let you know once I've got it sorted. ..again

What's best way to test the temp sensor, what racing should I be looking for? Also using one then chinese alloy crank pulley so dyu think that could b messing timing up?

Yo yo, Need some help finishing off my project and think it could be wiring related. So converted a 2ee na to 4efte using the original loom but converted for coil pack and clip on dizzy /leads. The car starts and drives fine when it's cold however when it warms up it starts running rich and black smoke comes out back on idle. Spoke to colin briefly who said it could be temp sensor of which I checked and hooked up. When I was looking the 2ee loom had 2 pins the one to ecu and one I think is live as when I bridged it first it would blow fuses?? The 4efte sensor is single wire so

managed to source one guys. i do need an idea of what vinyl to put on the spoiler for when its at its most vertical setting??

i thought it was a piss take and then read comments of it being justified with 0 bhp loss... yeh ok mate

people will actually view this and take it as gospel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ycr1TIMzVM this is even the guys pinned post justifying his 'mod' "Yes I know I could potentially lose performance, mpg and I will die in a week from carbon monoxide poisoning. 1. I didn't notice ANY hp loss and if I cared I would just buy an exhaust, but that's besides the point. 2. I still pull a steady 25mpg and even "real" exhausts cause a loss of mpg. 3. The location of my muffler on my 350z is in the very rear so there is a very low chance of any exhaust gasses getting in the cabin. 4. IF YO

This is what I was aiming for guys Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk