roachburger

correct me if im wrong but that big block thing on the bulkhead is the brake proportioning valve, looking at things you need to keep it.

it controls brake bias front to rear, stopping the rear wheels from locking up under heavy braking when all the weight is thrown forward.

meaning if you bypass that you will have a brake imbalance front to rear.and fail mot.

 

i was looking on the australian starlet forum and came across this..

 

* On the EP82 GT Turbo there was a part change in January 1992. Up until then the 47150-10080 proportioning valve was unique to the EARLY version, non-ABS models.

* 1992 onwards the non-ABS models used the same valve as their corolla counterparts; AE92 GT, GT-APEX and GTZ.

* The ABS-equipped EP82 GT Turbos used the same unit fitted to the EXY10 Sera. Later the part was superseeded by Toyota with 47150-44020 (fitted to Ipsum, Nadia, Gaia and the ZZV50 Vista).

* EP91 Glanza V: Non-ABS version used the same unit found on early Avalons (MCX10) and AE101, AE111 corolla variants; ABS version shared with several Celica, Corona and ABS-equipped Corollas.
 

(credit .. some aussie bloke on ausstarlet)

From what i can work out, (mainly because my gt is a mk1 91 and it has a 4 port )  the pre 1992 models are the 4 port prop valves that you just pipe to a tee and then into the rear of the master.

everything else is 5 port .  it would need to be replaced with either a 4 port ( if you can find one ) or a prop valve of some sort

mechanical,or manual.

 

 

I'm having this issue currently..  

Fensport (blitz eu dealers) don't know 

Nengun and rhd don't know, but are willing to check measurements with orc themselves.

Orc are very hard to deal with and don't appear to have much information or Intrest.

I'm informed by a couple of people that it is an orc 309d clutch re-branded with a blitz logo.There was one person on this forum who changed the blitz internals for orc internals and said it was spot on but it only takes one person to say it won't work to fill my mind with doubt lol 

I'll let you know and maybe make a thread regarding this on the weekend as I am re-building my blitz with orc internals when they arrive. 

...

connor brown has done it on his ep85 .. its a 4WD box but i think hes just dropped the front shafts and welded the diff. im not really sure he likes to keep it a secret.

its not worth the effort to do a full longitudinal engine conversion the only engine short enough to fit without moving the entire firewall back a foot would be a scoob flat 4 but even then there would have to be a transmission tunnel made.

correct me if im wrong but arn't starlets on 14x6 et35 as standard ?

with an et of 40 and an extra inch width i suspect it might lead you into troubles with the back of the rim rubbing the shock/coilover on the front and inner arch on the rear

mine are et35 15 x 8.5 and i can just fit a finger between the coilover and the back of the rim.

... dust..... anybody ?

Haha I don't underestimate it, I've simply more faith in expensive lasers than my own terrible eyesight, a suspectly unlevel driveway and a plumbline.

Yeahh, Theres more attachments than a porn stars dildo. We need really accurate stuff for the kit cars.

The laser alignment at my work does... it's some expensive bessingbarth digital stuff but..... it knows

Time attack tyres don't exactly last long or stay on the rims half as long as a road tyre nor are they a tyre compound that many if anyone would have on a road car ..

morgey said it ^^

the manufacturer/thickness makes no difference it just ties the rear beam central to the body, Although to an extent, it will effect handling.

If you weren't going to already I'd say have it laser aligned front and back.

Strings good for camber boys (why give a fuck about tyres when your fake wheels look that cool bro ) if the panhards not adjusted right the inner edge of the n/s/r tyre will get eaten, you'll notice the car will "crab" down the road and ultimately handle like shit.

Sounds like a good idea, but as Morgey said, shitloads of machining would be needed. custom syncros, selector forks, wider/chryo treated gears, layshafts, some form of dogbone bearing around 3rd to tie the layshafts together annddd do you think there would be any effects on the diff/final drive ?

Fair enough 300 is good enough power from a shoebox but then again 69% of British adults are obese, enough is never enough in this world :-)

Isn't the n/s (left) the short drive shaft side ?

Torquesteer

If it was tracking it wouldn't drive straight at all and would pull randomly

Short Answer.

There is no cost effective solution.

Ignore anyone that tells you they've engineered or made a custom box. 5 or 6 speed.

I've looked at every option going after blowing 5 of these gearbox's in the same way. As has MadMike on here.

The strongest box is a GT C52 5 Speed. (Due to longer ratios which help a touch)

6 Speed's have a thinner 3rd gear. Don't Waste your time.

Sorry

Your only options are:

Zisco Straight Cut or Quaife.

Both will cost you 6k + by the time there in a car.

Both of which will still wear out eventually and dont give specs on what they can cope with either.

was it yourself matt who was telling me about the layshafts flexing apart causing the gears to un-mesh and strip ??

someone was .. either way, when I opened up my GT box the outer casing had marks like this had been happening.

if this is the case the gear sets aren't the issue.

From what i know anything over 300hp your gearbox is on borrowed time.

corolla 6 speeds are chocolate and rare as hens balls

mr2/celica boxes are bigger than the engine themselves, and nothing else small enough can deal with the power.

as said above, cooling high-quality oil will do wonders but with no promises or guarantees.

you could spend a hell of a lot of money on something custom and hope that it will survive, but its probably betterer to just keep changing the box out.

have 2 box's and just once you strip one swop it for the other and replace the gearset ready for when you destroy it again next week

check out rob macs glanza...

one option id considered was a 4 link system fabricated to fit with a very basic rear axle setup.

by the time you do all the fabricating as cheaply as possible and source the necessary parts (brakes etc) to make it work,

1k minimum more like 1.5k

2k would be comfortable.

Phil

will it be any benefit over standard ? 4 link would still retain the fixed rear axle wouldn't it ?

Yaris' use round rear bushes on there lower arms, and I've yet to see a small Toyota without that hole in the lower arm for the a.r.b droplink.

Something tells me that's not even a Toyota arm.

Cutting the axle and adding shims seems a bit pikey to me..

Swap the axle out for a proper IRS setup.

This ones a pic of a mx5 subframe, do away with the rwd stuff, plenty of aftermarket arms etc available, the wheelbase cant be far off, better brake setup, 4x100 stud pattern.

I've been messing with the mx5 subframe idea for a few months now as I work for roadrunner (www.roadrunnerracing.net) I've got loads of bits for it hanging around waiting to be scrapped.

Its possible, but because of the nature of what I want to do and the huge risk of making the handling worse rather than better it needs to be incredibly accurate. Hours of measuring, marking and templates have gone into it allready.

Starlets use trailing arms a solid beam and a panhard rod so there are only 3 strong mounting points on the chassis under the boot floor, as you can figure these are nowhere near the right spacing for an mx subframe so some cutting and plating of chassis legs are needed. (on the 205 it was a lot simpler)

The rear coilovers/springs/shocks mx5 shocks are much much shorter, so I was thinking of maybe trying to do an inboard pushrod type (we use them on the sr2s, it's very compact but you loose a massive amount of suspension travel)

handbrake cables (probably need to be custom)

custom upper and lower arms due to the mx5 having a wider track. iirc it's about 50mm wider each side (that may be the 205 I can't quite remember).

The exhaust would have to change, hubs would need either big through bolts go stop the rear bearings to separate or do as audi do and just bolt in some gutted Cv joints.

It's on hold at the moment due to moneys, Christmas and my brother unexpectedly deciding to get married in some foreign far away land. But once I get going again I'll get some photos.

yeah my 5e on a racetech td05 is about 4000rpm by 5000 fullboostville

pre 92 is non-cat test, even then i put mine through on idle.

it's not the testers fault, you get a series of yes and no questions about the age of the vehicle when doing the test. It's something like:

what is the age of the vehicle?

1. after 2008

2. 1992-2008

3 < 92

4 < 76 or something

so he's just said between 1992 and 2008, therefore has applied a cat test unknown to him.

not many mechanics know about the import laws side of it, in all honesty, i didn't until i bought a Jap car so most will just stick to the pre 92 rule.

The general consensus for us is, if you get to doing a BET test its failed.

weld up the blow and make sure its warm when you hand it to the tester and morning is better because any overfuelling will be mixed with the water vapour in your exhaust.

orr if you have the ability (apexi) set a low rev limiter. i did that to toyota when i first took mine for m.o.t they refused me a test hahaha

the shafts should be the same.

the only real difference apart from brake pipe plumbing between abs and non-abs is the rings on the cv joints or on the back of the disks at the rear.

i know from experience abs/non-abs cv joints are the same you just knock the abs ring off.and the rear disks just don't have them on its even machined to fit one.

so i doubt abs will effect shit you may just have to knock a ring off.

with regards to the shafts.. most car companies won't make different shafts for the autos and manuals because of cost and the way they are built in huge batches.

it all just bolts on as one, hubs, shocks, shafts, disc etc.. (i think at each bay on the production line they have 2-3 minutes to perform a task.)

i did an auto-manual conversion on my 205 because the autos had lower compression engines for turbo fun and I didn't even separate the shafts from the wheel hub.

Just out and straight back into a manual box, not saying its the same but, stands to reason.

basically ....

we cant tell you what power you will gain from injectors and a mapping session for multiple reasons:-

1. the air temp on the day does effect how much power you will produce allbeit a small amount 1-2 hp sometimes 5 max

(i work very closely with canems ecus and his dyno is actually at my work, ive seen first hand a hp figure change from first thing in a morning to mid afternoon when the air is hotter ettc)

2 your general engine setup, clutch, flywheel, gearbox, boost level, engine health, plugs,fuelling

3. what fuel your using and where yoou got it from

4 the mapper himself/herself

5 the dyno.

the list is endless and can get even more tedious

but iirc about 260/270 is easily producable on a td04 4e with injestors and a good map.

Non .. there is no horsepower to gain just by swopping 4 injectors, it's more than likely you will loose power.

An injector works by a voltage signal being sent from the ecu. Each voltage corresponds to a pulse time and flow (duty cycle) telling the injector how long to open for and how much fuel to flow.

If you go putting a larger injector into your engine without programming the pulse and duty cycles the ecu will presume the injectors are the same flow and not make corrections for the amount of fuel.

I.e

when a standard injector flows 295cc @100% duty cycle at w.o.t and full boost (6psi),

That's all kinds of good fuelling.

If you take an uprated injector that flows 550cc @100% duty cycle and the ecu asks the injectors for 100% duty. Well, you can imagine the outcome.

Anyone know where you can get replacement clock faces for the mk1 gt ?

I've currently got a 110mph face and I would like to know that there is such thing as 120 and 130 just in case my maths teachers were lying to me for all those years XD

Indiglos would fit on the speedo side but because of the round digital hi/low boost gauge about where 9000rpm is, the rpm side won't work.

If not, has anyone got a 180 kph speedo face in black ?

I have the front and rear seats from a my mk1 but no door panels

I replaced mine for l.e.ds and sanded off what's left of the green paint .. simple and works way better, I started a build thread years ago on here there are pictures on there

Bump... anyone