roachburger

They are pauter xbeam rods iirc

I beam rods look bugger all like that

they actually look very simlar to 1uz rods.

Some angle is ok. If it's not much it may square them up as the engine moves on its mounts.

As long as the inner CV joint on the shaft is in line with the inner pivot of the tie rod on the steering rack and the cv joint isn't at the daftest angle ever or at the end of it's pivoting travel it should be alright

Vtec minis have a remarkably steep angle on thier driveshafts and they hold up

Platinum imports in leeds has a pair

Okay, maybe TUV approved to VW, but not legal to Starlet anyhow, because it shouldn't be possible do any cut and paste modifation to factory axle. It is possible and can be done, but MOT inspector can't allow that modification in any EU country. If inspector sees that blue plastic in solid orginally welded hub, it fails. Only wanna remind people this gray area, dangerous things to modify when talking about street legal cars, trackcars are different story. Just wanna say that be carefull and know what You are doing

just have to say theres not much chance of it failing m.o.t here, as an m.o.t tester on a daily basis and producer of independant vehicles i know the i.v.a, s.v.a and m.o.t tests pretty much inside out.

an m.o.t tester will not look any further at the rear beam besides play in the bearings, leaking shocks, mounting bushes (i.e trailing arm bushes, panhard rod bushes) and brake effeciency (which we use brake rollers to test imbalance and that the compensator isnt seized ) other than than the rear beam its just a really conveniant jacking point. unless the disk is removed and the stub axle exposed we wouldnt even see the shims being there, even if we did see that because of the shape and holes in the stub axle it would be presumed that its bolted to end the end of the beam as standard...... theres other mods on starlets that are more likely to effect picky m.o.t testers like screamer pipes or a lack of cat.

starlets just arnt designed for it ..

For the money it would cost to do you could buy a roadrunner kit car and drop your k20 in that .

I dare to say a well tuned forged 4e/5e and suspension setup would eat any n/a k20 on the road, in my experience ive got boost long before vtec kicks in.

bump

Lighter engine, reliable and importantly usable horsepower.You can keep your power figures, I'd rather be driving quickly around race tracks.

Good shout tris

I always thought of doing it this way but I wanted to use metal shims.

Keep us updated

got me there wha ha ha

didnt they fit a 2jzgte in a p7 fwd and all

How did they get a 2jz fwd ?

Someone's done a k20 I think .. I swear there is a build thread somewhere on here

Seems pointless though.

why swop boost for VTEC when it's just as complex to install, maybe more expensive and makes less power.

If you turbocharged the k20 you would have a monster but it won't be cheap.

Nice how much you want for it

Wanted

Coilovers, ... just need some proper coilovers

Hazard light switch for an 82 - hazards have stopped playing but indicators still work on the column ideally before m.o.t on the 30th

Offers anyone ?

Fair point

My reasoning was... Powerflow quoted me 300 for a 2.5" system and anyone else I spoke to wanted more money or wouldn't be able to mandrel bend the tube.

I made mine for just over half that in 3" with v bands

Either way is good I suppose.

my advice... it isn't as easy to do as it looks and weld it together if you do.

A decent fabricator wont charge the earth for a straight pipe from cat to backbox. Get it welded and it'll last.

If you have access to a tig welder, it's massively cheaper but it's extremely time consuming. The worst part is getting your pipework over the rear beam to meet the back box. Ideally you need a couple of gearbox stands or tall stands and the car on a ramp the rest is pretty logical start from the downpipe and work your way backwards try to put your flexi near the rear of the subframe and if your building it I'd say minimum diameter would be 2.5" ideally 3

Nice going buddy, looks smart, is yours a 6 speed ?

Have you considered a coolant re-route kit ? If you are hammering tracks I would say it's a recommended piece of kit. So many of our track mx's fail on cylinder 4 due to cooling.

Bumper dumperrr

bumpp

Have you had the windscreen replaced ? Check the drivers side too

Bumpy Mcbump

Forgot to mention the HKS filter

Haha might have been black then. I'm not exactly brilliant with my memory, just remember it being a dark base model ep9.

Col, why ?

I would understand if it actually made things simpler I.e wiring or the mounts are the same, or even driveshafts but

As socks said there's too much weight to make it viable and any combo of Toyota engine/box means something can'et handle the power (unless your going to use jz or uz engines)

And why not do something that's not been done before, looking at your twin charged setups your not scared lol

hahah im not comparing at all man

i was just saying if your going to cut up the front end of a ep for a different engine instead of a 3sgte why not an sr20. both look like the same amount of work its just one would give off muchos potential and the other just creates understeer.

4agze or 4age seems simpler, although i have only ever seen one in a green ep90 at jae

The weight is the biggest issue along with the amount of cutting and adjustment required.

Has anyone gone absolutely wild in the aisles and thought of sourcing a pulsar sr20 setup ??

fair enough there is going to be some cutting/ molestation of chassis legs and the bulkhead but they are much lighter engines and well capable of more power than a 4e or 3sgte.

any thoughts ?