morgey

Well got the alternator off and run it to my local auto electrical place, turns out a screw had come loose and was causing a short. Simple fix and only cost me a bit of fuel. 

Pissed it happened in the first place but at least it's not a new alternator! 

Yeah I'm not letting it go cheap and I know most people would just laugh at the price but it is what it is. If someone wanted to build something similar they would have to spend more just on parts alone. 

Sounds good!

I dont know what the ep70's are like but I was under the dash in my 91 and there an adjustable stop that you could easily remove and replace with a button type switch without too much bother. 

If someone stuck 4.5k in my hand, it and all my spares could be taken away tomorrow lol!

Good to see you've found some time to work on it again, any plans to get it back down the strip?

looks like you had some plans on how to improve things with boost per gear etc, have you tested them much since fitting it all?

Welcome buddy

stick an ad in the wanted section, someone should have one hopefully.

Welcome along Luke 

You could say that lol, I just want to be able to use it and enjoy it but it just seems that it's quite content to sit in my back garden slowly rotting away 

Car lasted 3 days and about 30 miles before something else broke. Now needs a new alternator too 

Not much to update, car is overfuelling like crazy on idle, not sure if thats going to be O2 sensor or ECU shit itself.

just had an fgk manifold modded to fit and new bigger boxes added to the exhaust to quieten it down a bit. Next plan is to fit the OEM airbox and inlet plenum with some imex trumpets. The idea of this is to make it more dailyable and to try make the power band drop down to the midrange some more.

I've also changed the driver's side driveshaft to an idem from a ae111 Levin so its now a halfshaft therefore nearly equal length shafts. 

Clutch is really high and slips a tad, think the slave cylinder is sticking as the thing has only done 12k so we will see what's happening there.

Then final bits to do is a bit of sound proofing and fixing knocks and rattles from the interior etc. 

For the mean time here is a pic of how it is sitting next to the old mans new rav4

Welcome along, looks like a good little project 

LSD's were an option on any Levin/trueno bzv bzg and bzr. I don't think they have the bolt holes in the front of the box for the 4e mount but could be added. 

On some cars the drive ring is a separate item pressed on, maybe that been knocked and moved. 

I can't see a flywheel being warped, not a factory one anyway way to much material there to warp, plus they're a cast item so would more likely crack.

All the mating surfaces were clean between crank and flywheel? 

1 hour ago, SpoonalTap said:

I just took my hub off and gave the disc and hub to a engineering firm and asked them to make me spigot rings. As long as you've got a way of centralizing the disc on the hub when bolting everything together then I would imagine it would be ok without one as once the wheels are bolted on the disc its sandwiched between the wheel and hub and it's not taking any weight like the wheels but for my own peace of mind I wanted to get rings made.

 

You would 100% want a permanent spigot ring, a huge amount of force goes through the disc when being clamped and could easily be pulled off center especially when things get hot. For the sake of paying maybe £10 or so for some spigot rings it's not worth the risk imo.

Check the dome fuse in the engine bay, that does a range of interior stuff. 

When you tried the indicators was the ignition on?

Not every ep has them, some just have a solid cover over the top. Last one I put in mine I scented up so I get a waft of air freshener whenever the heatings on lol

154lbft iirc 

The knocking on the BC will likely be the nut on top of the pillow ball, mine and a couple of others have came loose before and caused a knocking.

Biggest problem with the Celica carriers is lack of pad choice. MR2 and Levin pads fit but they have a smaller footprint so it's a bit of a trade off.

Have you got the little tub/baffle that sits around the fuel pump in the tank to stop the fuel running to the extremeties of the tank

Stock power you should be ok, just keep up with oil changes and don't be overly aggressive with it and it will be fine. 

When the cars driving how I want it I'll consider more power, currently it's a bit odd so I'm going to focus on getting that sorted before doing much else to it.

What you trying to say?? 

Open up the ECU and it's printed on the board

Rear discs on these suck, I've done exactly the same as you numberous times and they still don't work. Left it with a garage after an MOT and told them that they just don't work and to check them over, told me I needed a new caliper, so I fitted a spare one, which still didn't work. 

Next thing I know, it's passed its MOT and guess what, the handbrake still doesn't work lol. Even the footbrake has really low efficiency on them.

If you want a working handbrake on a Toyota, fit drums. Haven't touched the ones on my corolla in 9 years and they still lock the back wheels!