patman

Sorry for butting in this thread as I'm curious too about injectors and as I'm in the middle of rebuilding my engine I want to check my injectors are all working, I'm just presuming for stock injectors when testing them with an ohms meter is it all 4 should read about 12ohms is that correct? Thanking you in advance Pat

Thankyou mate sorry for late reply please let me know 👍

Just looking for a top cambelt cover now (no splits where the screws go please) And a expansion bottle cap or lid (overflow bottle from radiator) Pat

👍👍👍👍👍👍

Jay thankyou so much mate that's perfect 👍

Am after a few parts lads if anyone has them laying around Cambelt cover (top one) Overflow expansion bottle (just the cap) Blue rad hoses (top one on its own is fine) now got rad hoses #### Half rad mounts (now got rad mounts) #### Ok that's about it for now due to spending a lot on my rebuild etc I need it to be cheap as possible please, so for example if someone offers me blue rad hoses for £50 I just can't afford to go that high at the moment sorry Thanks guys Pat

Saw this on Facebook you said the person before only ran it 500 miles after rebuild? I suppose just questioning why at 500 miles?

If I was after something no disrespect I would travel to the other side of the country for it, as it's worth it in the long run 👍

Looks like I got a mk 1 boot on mine then, that's how I got it with the green GT glow badge

That's interesting to know Colin mate when I have ordered parts mines come up as a mk 3 (L Plate mines on, thought it was a mk 2) anyway I have a glow badge boot on mine 👍

Back to this subject just out of curiousity is the oil pressure switch suppose to go right in screwed tight so the switch itself is tight up against the block? As mine doesn't do that it's on tight but there's still a gap there 👍

And of course mate make sure the arrows are pointing to the cam belt side too 👍

How's it a pointless request mate? I mean yeah it is a long shot yes I agree with that, but it saves me having to by the whole set again from toyota as you can only by piston rings for a set of 4 pistons not 1 piston, when I took my pistons to the machine shop to have the pins pushed in his somehow broke the bottom oil ring on piston number 4 idiot, and they are all new piston rings so will have to now waste another 100 quid on another set, so please tell me now if it's a pointless request?

You know this Colin mate, exactly what I was saying on here the other day oggy too 👍

What part mate as I'm in East Sussex too 👍

This is going to get expensive, ouccccch

Bump, anyone? 👍

I know this is a long shot but has anyone got a genuine new oem oil ring, which is the bottom ring on the piston well there are two rings for the bottom one, I have rang up toyota and they only do them as a set of 4....typical as my rings are new anyway just need the bottom oil ones, it's a long story Thanks pat

I'm not doubting you mate as I thought it was aswell just with that write up I can see why people would get confused and start asking questions 😀

Thankyou Colin mate this is what I thought, reason why I asked there's a engine guide on here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/58187-how-to-build-a-forged-5efte-engine-step-by-step-guide/ And I understand it's for a build a forged but in the built his put "Next is to put the main caps on to hold the crank in place, these also need bearings put into them, there are 5 of of them and they are numbered 1-5, again cover the outside in oil once fitted.. It is very important you put these on the correct way and in the correct sequence. You will notice that each one has a number on the top an

Colin has nailed it mate it is a pain in the ass I know stripping things down, I would like Colin said check everything and take head off, I got another issue at the moment on the main caps they are numbered obviously 1-5 I know the arrow points to the cambelt side but I can't remember if number 1 starts at the cambelt side or the fly wheel/gearbox side? What a pain

Colin is a superstar at this butchysr, I wish I had patients like him when explaining time and time again 👍

Will do Colin mate thankyou soooooo much for all the info and input you have given me I'm thinking a lot of other people could benefit from you and this thread too 👍

My local engineer shop Phil decided to round it all off in hundreds not thousands so he was rounding off the mains to 47mm and the big ends to 40mm Hence why I am in this postion now as he oh had the gauges what deal in hundreds not thousands Sorry for the late reply Colin in the end gave it to a very good mechanic friend who's dealt with this stuff before, he texted me at the end of the day quickly to say all the rod holes measured up were all inbetween 43.000mm-43.007mm as gave him the 3 std bearing options for big ends 👍

Am on it thankyou Colin mate 👍