SpikeyJp_68

If it doesnt go after removing the catch can id check all the intercooler piping if theres a lot in the hot side it would indicate turbo failure. If not its possibly internal i.e rings or stem seals

Ive drawn a negativley switched relay diagram and labeled it accordingly.. the relay pin im missing a purpose for is pin 2 (86 std relay) which would be constant 12v in a negativley switched scenario. I tested this pin and threre is 0v there and a 12v voltage drop between pin 2 relay and t30 b+..

Have i answered my own question my doing this or could someone confirm it ? 

Cheers 😁

Hi guys, id greatly appriciate some assistance with an issue im having. Its a ep91 with 4efte and 4efte loom throughout. Ive tried earthing the plug, doesnt come on, doesnt come on when unplugged, there is continuity between the fan switch plug and relay. If i bridge the load side of the relay (pins 3,5) , the fan works. Im really stumped as to the issue as i cant find a wiring diagram.. is there anywhere else i should check or has anyone wiring diagrams ? Or if someone could explain the switching side (pins 2,1). From my checks ive found this out about the relay pins. From my understanding if pin 1 on the relay goes to the fan switch and is an earth switch pin 2 should be a 12v signal or constant ? 

1) fan switch plug

, 2) ?

3) 12v ign

5) to load

Genuinely considering a drum set up at this stage. 

So, today... ive messed around with the piston winding it so that its very tight getting over the pads. Hook the cables up and it bites yes but wont lock solid after being bled out

 My rh cable is fine but my lh pulls but wont release so will need a new one. Footbrake locks solid. 

One disk measures 7mm the other 8mm so i may just get a new lh cable, new pads and see how it goes.

9 hours ago, Jay85 said:

Could the cable have stretched meaning you’re only getting a slight bite at the end? Is the cable adjustable?

Its un related to the cable as when im testing it i have the cable off and just turning the mechanism on the calliper by hand

Yes ive had all the components on one side back out and re-assembled and its all as it should be. Yes i drove the car and the foot brake is clamping them no problem its just the handbrake. 

Ive since been back out and wound the piston out a bit and then gradually back until its tight to get over the pads. Pulled the leaver a few times and it was just starting to clamp down thought it was sorted..

Bled it out and tried the handbrake leaver and nothing it just goes back and forth with no resistance

So my handbrake is non - existant. 

Ive rebuilt them with a rebuild kit and put them back on but no handbrake which i presumed are the cables.

Ive had a look at it today and the cables are poor yes but with the calliper bolted on with the cable off, when turning the mechanism by hand (without the bracket for the cable) it only bites right at the very end of its throw and ive managed to turn it far enough that the pin has slipped out of the hole and the mechanism is now stuck. 

My question is, are the pins in the inner piston prone to wear ? Or the mechanism that turns that it sits into ? Pin is 47613B and turning mechanism is 47621A

Just tried it out again after cleaning the rotor arm. Still the same. 

Seems to be perfect when cold ?? 

Okay so an update.... seem to be getting more problems than solving them. 

Boost controller with mac solenoid wired in and working as far as i can tell. Ran off an auxillary fuse box. 

Slimline fan attached and wired using oem plug but not working. Dont have a 12v feed going to it when its supoosed to kick in. Temp sensor seems to be working as theres power to the signal of the relay in the fusebox. 

Exhaust back on, only to find its twisted when putting the flexi in and is hanging low and twisted. Fantastic 

And lastly, ive developed a misfire..

Very bad under load its coughing and spluttering all the time with no power. Under light load she'll keep going but get worse as boost and throttle input rises. Plugs look to be quite sooty (ngk iridium 7's)

Ive just cleaned the rotor arm with sandpaper and will test tomorrow and check the coil earth to chassis. If gone ill order a new cap and rotor. If not, ill start with the cap rotor and onto the leads and work back. I will be borrowing a timing gun and checking that also as mines gone walkabout.

Ive a feeling ill be dead and gone by the time this bitch gets near a road but hey-ho

17 hours ago, Rob H said:

Cheers!

The plate is for something I’ve been playing about with for a while  more will be revealed when I’ve finished it 

 

 

Good stuff looking forward to it 

As above looking for a 2" Id front section for a glanza. Will put a new flexi in if needed

Whats the plate being made up for Rob ? Looks intriguing as always 

Yes im running a stock ecu and stock fuelling for the test. Its at .5 bar stm but will be upping it to .8 bar when i get a wideband.

They do a high and low idle measuring CO%, lambda on both and hydrocarbons on high then theyre compared to the limits on their system which differs for each car. 

A 200 cell is about 70-90gbp plus postage where as a 400 cell is 170-190gbp plus postage 

As above what cat converter have people used and passed emmisions testing with ? Will be going through an nct so not sure if emmisions differ from mot. Its an n/a shell eith a freshly built 4efte and a tf035 and ill be cutting up a dump pipe and welding it in place. 

I was thinking a 200 cell would be enough but might get a 400 to be safe ? 

Opinions welcome as always 

So today i got some bits crossed off my list. Not too many pictures unfortunatley. 

O/s inner and outer cv boots, Front arm pollybushed, Arb pullybushed and new drop links, Coated the front arms and arb in undercoat and welded in a new flexi pipe. 

Excuse the shit welding i made do with my mig

Before:

After:

Exhaust flexi replacement:

I left the exhaust section off as next weekend i hope to have a look at my handbrake cables - no handbrake at all, and get a few more bits done but as fsr as i can remember all the bits under the car are done. Biggest thing on the list is a cat converter which i was hoping to get another downpipe and weld it into that. 

9 hours ago, glanzadude said:

fine car this and love the Alloys.

Cheers buddy. Thinking about a chsnge to some rays te37 V's in bronze

Looks good pal  

What are these like in the snow ? Ever thought about an lsd or does it not justify having one

Stock hoses. Nee ones on the list after mot

Sounds like the ecu coolant temp sensor i had a similar problem. Does it only do it when cold or does it cold & hot ? 

Few small bits done today. 

Changed the timing belt and idler as it was catching the top timing cover and rubbing on the belt. Caused by putting the idler on the wrong way - stupid i know.

Tightened my throttle cable as it was too long and only getting 3/4 opening. Used a bonnet spacer with a slit in it to put on the pedal side and take up the slack. Makes a huge difference and seemed to want to kill me on full throttle, i like it. 

Next i pulled the plugs out to have a peek in the cylinders. I thought i could be looking at a bad HG but it was all dry and looked good. (See my other post in engines as to why) 

Outer Passenger door handle was reconnected along with the speedo cable. 

Made a list of all that needs doing and will be cracking on with in now. 

Temp gauge now working after fiddling with plugs. No bubbles from rad when running, cylinders are dry and head is torqued properly. Starting to think its normal now maybe ? 

Brought my car out for a quick test drive after changing a timing belt idler pulley and noticed my temp gauge wasnt moving. Brought it back anyway turned it off and felt the rad hoses.

The top one was hot and had a lot of pressure in it. Felt like a balloon. So much pressure it feels as if its about to burst. The lower one is warm and has a normal amount of pressure. 

Anyone know what could cause this ? Coolant is full but doesnt seem to ve overflowing into the tank

From what ive heard/been told, an 8j wheel on an ep is pretty naff. Best off sticking to a 7j with 195 65 15

Never fails to amaze me the lengths you go to to get stuff done. Top work pal 

Okay so after a long absence of feeling shit and not wanting to do a great deal with the car ive finally decided to get a few bits done to it  

I have got the brakes rebuilt and all put on the car seem to be working fine but hope to give it a decent enough run soon enough to find out. My handbrake is none existant so will most likely need 3 new cables. 

Plan next month is to sort the handbrake, get an ebc wired in and running and sort a few other small things such as a slim fan, passenger airbag needs wiring, cat converter for mot/nct, a rear fog needs wiring up, reverse switch, oil pressure switch, n/s exterior door handle, weld drivers seat mount, secure exhaust heat shields, new fuel gauge sender. Anyone have any of these or the bits below at a reasonable price give me a shout for next month 

Im hoping at .8 bar, standard ecu with my tf035, i can get around 220bhp. 

Drove it slightly yesterday and the tf035 feels really nice to drive. Full boost (.5 to .6 bar) is at about 3500rpm but you definitley notice when it comes on. If i was to estimate power output at the moment id put it anywhere from 110bhp to 130bhp

After that and once it has an mot/nct, i will be looking at getting a piggyback ecu & mapping, 440cc injectors, c56 gearbox & shafts with  possibly a qualife lsd, some new wheels in bronze, meister R coilovers.

Heres a few recent pictures to keep you all updated 

will be knocking about on the forum so hope to catch up on what everyones been up to