SpikeyJp_68

Quite surprised at the generally negative reaction haha. I like them but jot wnough to chop the shit out of my facelift bumper to show a brand name hahaha

No problems here...

+1 for tf035 i have one on mine. Without a boost controller full boost of .5bar with a standard actuator @3400-500 rpm and will keep pulling until redline. Easy to keep on boost. Will only be better with a boost controller im imagining

Got a pic of these on ?

Thanks pal

I would say the needle needles resetting then. You probably didnt put it back it exactly the right place

When cold the needle sits a lot lower than the marking on the console

Take a look at some pictures of temp needle of other glanza's

Can someone show me where theres sit when cold in that case

Should hopefully solve the problem

Chain the front and back wheels together on one side. Or alternativley, hire out a small group of angry china men and give them machetes, ak47's etc

Have just changed the ecu temp sensor. No fault codes runs spot on.

I have had the needle removed to clean behind yes. Pictures were taken today in Ireland so its 7 degrees and raining haha. Was okay on my 96 spec clocks only seems to happen when i swithed to my 98 spec ones

And I've forgotten how to change the project thread name ?

Looks very nice. Any plans for more power or are you happy as is ?

Bump. Offers on everything

Hi guys,

I have recently installed some fog lights on my '96 Glanza V, but have noticed that they will only be operable, that is turn on or off when the park lights are switched on. Is this normal behaviour?

Cheers!

At least the park light have to be on for fogs to work. Thats normal

Temp gauge ignition off

Temp gauge ignition on

Car has been sat overnight so it is fully cold. Any ideas as to what is causing this ? Or is my needle set wrong ? When fully upto temp the needle sits inbetween the middle and hot

Ya evething is tighen down i thinking could it be a fucked bearing car been off the road for a while

Did you sand down the stub axle before putting the disk on ?

Is the wheel bolted on ?

Innocent until proven guilty bud.

You are assuming that these people are immigrants, remember a lot of these people are British born.

British or not british if theyre suspected of terrorism send them out for the good of the country

After manchester i read theres around 2000 people on a suspect terrorist list... well fuck me if they know about these people get rid of them or look into them further. Now i know a lot of man power would be involved but still.

As for the rest of them, i think its very very unfair to brand all muslims as terrorists and deport them all.

I personally think it looks quite cool. Only reason i didnt do it becuase im not fond of non brand parts pretending to be a brand haha

Just wondering what the general concensus is on these.. i.e buying a non brand core and spraying greddy on it or similar

Around 100 pounds parts and labour. Any machine shop should be able to do it. Delicate and quite a time consuming job as with any head work

Switches are the same. Wires comes from the dash loom where the steering column wires are, in the drives foot well. It has a black plastic tube like cover over the wires about 7-10"long

Okay cool will have another look around and see can i see them. By steering column wires do you mean the ones that go to the indicators and wipers ?

Okay so ive done a conversion on my ep91 using engine, dash and rear loom but i cant seem to find the plug for the foot brakes on my new loom. Does anyone have a picture of said plug ? And also what part of the loom it comes from and what colour are the wires on it. And are the switches the same between n/a and turbo ?

I may have something sorted will get back to the both of you if it falls through

Okay cool will get the bar then see which links i need. Ill get standard ones if pollybushes make little difference

On a turbo engine ? No definitley not

Cheers mate i appriciate it think i nesrly prefer it in black..