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SpikeyJp_68

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About SpikeyJp_68

  • Rank
    Boosting a Starlet
  • Birthday 08/19/2018

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wexford
  • Interests
    Big turbos
  • Build Thread
    94961

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  1. If it doesnt go after removing the catch can id check all the intercooler piping if theres a lot in the hot side it would indicate turbo failure. If not its possibly internal i.e rings or stem seals
  2. Ive drawn a negativley switched relay diagram and labeled it accordingly.. the relay pin im missing a purpose for is pin 2 (86 std relay) which would be constant 12v in a negativley switched scenario. I tested this pin and threre is 0v there and a 12v voltage drop between pin 2 relay and t30 b+.. Have i answered my own question my doing this or could someone confirm it ? Cheers 😁
  3. Hi guys, id greatly appriciate some assistance with an issue im having. Its a ep91 with 4efte and 4efte loom throughout. Ive tried earthing the plug, doesnt come on, doesnt come on when unplugged, there is continuity between the fan switch plug and relay. If i bridge the load side of the relay (pins 3,5) , the fan works. Im really stumped as to the issue as i cant find a wiring diagram.. is there anywhere else i should check or has anyone wiring diagrams ? Or if someone could explain the switching side (pins 2,1). From my checks ive found this out about the relay pins. From my understanding if pin 1 on the relay goes to the fan switch and is an earth switch pin 2 should be a 12v signal or constant ? 1) fan switch plug , 2) ? 3) 12v ign 5) to load
  4. Genuinely considering a drum set up at this stage. So, today... ive messed around with the piston winding it so that its very tight getting over the pads. Hook the cables up and it bites yes but wont lock solid after being bled out My rh cable is fine but my lh pulls but wont release so will need a new one. Footbrake locks solid. One disk measures 7mm the other 8mm so i may just get a new lh cable, new pads and see how it goes.
  5. Its un related to the cable as when im testing it i have the cable off and just turning the mechanism on the calliper by hand
  6. Yes ive had all the components on one side back out and re-assembled and its all as it should be. Yes i drove the car and the foot brake is clamping them no problem its just the handbrake. Ive since been back out and wound the piston out a bit and then gradually back until its tight to get over the pads. Pulled the leaver a few times and it was just starting to clamp down thought it was sorted.. Bled it out and tried the handbrake leaver and nothing it just goes back and forth with no resistance
  7. So my handbrake is non - existant. Ive rebuilt them with a rebuild kit and put them back on but no handbrake which i presumed are the cables. Ive had a look at it today and the cables are poor yes but with the calliper bolted on with the cable off, when turning the mechanism by hand (without the bracket for the cable) it only bites right at the very end of its throw and ive managed to turn it far enough that the pin has slipped out of the hole and the mechanism is now stuck. My question is, are the pins in the inner piston prone to wear ? Or the mechanism that turns that it sits into ? Pin is 47613B and turning mechanism is 47621A
  8. Just tried it out again after cleaning the rotor arm. Still the same. Seems to be perfect when cold ??
  9. Okay so an update.... seem to be getting more problems than solving them. Boost controller with mac solenoid wired in and working as far as i can tell. Ran off an auxillary fuse box. Slimline fan attached and wired using oem plug but not working. Dont have a 12v feed going to it when its supoosed to kick in. Temp sensor seems to be working as theres power to the signal of the relay in the fusebox. Exhaust back on, only to find its twisted when putting the flexi in and is hanging low and twisted. Fantastic And lastly, ive developed a misfire.. Very bad under load its coughing and spluttering all the time with no power. Under light load she'll keep going but get worse as boost and throttle input rises. Plugs look to be quite sooty (ngk iridium 7's) Ive just cleaned the rotor arm with sandpaper and will test tomorrow and check the coil earth to chassis. If gone ill order a new cap and rotor. If not, ill start with the cap rotor and onto the leads and work back. I will be borrowing a timing gun and checking that also as mines gone walkabout. Ive a feeling ill be dead and gone by the time this bitch gets near a road but hey-ho
  10. As above looking for a 2" Id front section for a glanza. Will put a new flexi in if needed
  11. Yes im running a stock ecu and stock fuelling for the test. Its at .5 bar stm but will be upping it to .8 bar when i get a wideband. They do a high and low idle measuring CO%, lambda on both and hydrocarbons on high then theyre compared to the limits on their system which differs for each car. A 200 cell is about 70-90gbp plus postage where as a 400 cell is 170-190gbp plus postage
  12. As above what cat converter have people used and passed emmisions testing with ? Will be going through an nct so not sure if emmisions differ from mot. Its an n/a shell eith a freshly built 4efte and a tf035 and ill be cutting up a dump pipe and welding it in place. I was thinking a 200 cell would be enough but might get a 400 to be safe ? Opinions welcome as always
  13. So today i got some bits crossed off my list. Not too many pictures unfortunatley. O/s inner and outer cv boots, Front arm pollybushed, Arb pullybushed and new drop links, Coated the front arms and arb in undercoat and welded in a new flexi pipe. Excuse the shit welding i made do with my mig Before: After: Exhaust flexi replacement: I left the exhaust section off as next weekend i hope to have a look at my handbrake cables - no handbrake at all, and get a few more bits done but as fsr as i can remember all the bits under the car are done. Biggest thing on the list is a cat converter which i was hoping to get another downpipe and weld it into that.
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