olidaviesuk

Should go fine mate, the amount of stretch you'll have on the sidewalls will be loads so not gonna have square tyre shoulders lol, worst case a light roll of the arches

Have you tried these yet, interested to how they go?

Looks really smart! is that a std ep82 bumper with aftermarket splitter? looks the nuts!

R32 GTR one goes straight on

spot weld the arm, had no probs with mine and six months use

Adjusting these correctly is the trick to using them - so many just adjust them to the length of the std bar - ideally you need it done when you get the car 4 wheel aligned - because of the way the rear beam works when you lower the car with the std rod the rear beam will sit more to one side than the other - you can get it back to straight by shortening/lengthening the rod.

Agree about the Yellowstuffs, tried them twice, DS2500 is a far better pad and works okay from cold as well...

Hi All, If you don't know me I've been building a starlet to race in a production saloons race series. My brother races a very quick white and pink starlet ep82 that some of you might have seen when he does an occasional trackday. Had a bit of a disaster moment yesterday, the top adjuster of my d2 had seized - and a bit of heavy handed releasing has resulted in me snapping the internal mech. Has anyone got an old, can be broken set or even just front strut, the rings can be seized etc just as long as the top damper adjuster is free and the coilover seal isn't leaking. They are the older 50

Hi All, If you don't know me I've been building a starlet to race in a production saloons race series. My brother races a very quick white and pink starlet ep82 that some of you might have seen when he does an occasional trackday. Had a bit of a disaster moment yesterday, the top adjuster of my d2 had seized - and a bit of heavy handed releasing has resulted in me snapping the internal mech. Has anyone got an old, can be broken set or even just front strut, the spring seat rings can be seized etc just as long as the top damper adjuster is free and the coilover seal isn't leaking. They are

I like that idea!! so simple, just weld a washer onto the slider part? Just using the Dizzy trigger?

What wheels have you got on there - they look

Had one on my Seat Leon, best avoided..... Jap or helix/ap if you're going big power

I'm running TD 7x15 ET35 on mine with 195/50/15 doesn't rub at all - I've had the arches rolled mind

its also welded on the inside of the stub, quite a bit of work with a die grinder is needed to remove it

Try these guys - mail order but really good price and service http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ULTRASONIC-FUEL-INJECTOR-CLEANING-SERVICE-CLEANER-/380072659398?hash=item587e1889c6:m:mxsv2ke8PvP7WjvawvgJnag

Gap them every 5000 or so though as they will be slightly more suseptable than iridium to the gap opening up over time... Copper plugs all the way!

If you're really worried get a couple of cheep eBay special outer CV's - I've seen them go for £10, and torque them up properly, can then tow/move around without the bearings collapsing if you need to move it any distance

Any idea of the make you've used, all the ones i've tried have always been a little loose - even with proper crimp clips

All of the TD Pro Race wheels are designed for track, they make all the BTCC wheels - so you'll usually get a stronger wheel than something designed more for looks

Have to chop the stub axles off a spare beam, then have yours machined off then you can shim. Seen it done - lots of work and you need access to a machine shop to do properly as the cuts have to be exact.

Lots of different brands - all do the same thing, and intercept injector/airflow signal to modify the std map to run with your engine config/tune HKS - FCON Haltec interceptor ECUTEK Apexi are all other makes - some are a lot better than other, pretty much depends which one your mapper is most comfortable using and can achieve best results with.

Cool, I guess the TDC point is based on one of the two triggers in the dizzy. All fine until the dizzy moves...

As above, Just midway through a standalone conversion onto an emerald K6, i've got the Tercel crank sensor bottom gear and oil pump - so a OE toyota crank sensor setup. Not fitted it yet as means pulling the pump off the engine. In the interests of laziness has anyone achieved good results using just the dizzy and non sequential injection, full sequential will be better with both pickups but a fair bit more work. Id quite like to get the car on the road soon as so......

Hi, I've had a search through and not found anything, does anyone know a good source (ideally OE) for outer CV boots, every single one I've had off the motor factors / off eBay has always been slightly too big. Cheers