Mike84

Engine getting very close to fitting now , happy days Sorted out light weight alternator setup , decided to revert to fitting a new water pump . As I originally had a blanking plate fitted and was going to use a electric water pump. But time restraints mean I've reverted to the original setup for now. Custom alternator mount Managed to fit new thermostat and sealed on water housing along with new MJC coolant pipes Fitted my newly powder coated modified seat base for the final time and couldn't resist laying new belts in place for a look

These 3 wires will then need terminated to match your sub harness you all ready made to coils . So terminal 6 you added to 26 pin plug will control coils 1 &4 leaving terminal 19 to control coils 2 & 3 (ecu signal / trigger ). Live wire bridged into original thick black / white will match sub harness supplying 12v to terminals 3 of k20 coils. This leaves the jumper terminals in the Me221 ecu to be bridged with solder only one labelled ign C & ign D . Please ignore the fact I bridged B as it is now unsoldered as distributor uses this pin. PLEASE do not connect coils

Next you will need to add terminals to the ecu 26 pin plug if like me you want to be able to revert back to original coil with distributor and leads / original ecu if needed. The ME221 starlet ecu has 4 ignition drivers ign A being used for standard coil leaving ign B C & D . Ign B however already has a wire (white wire to distributor) so this needs to be left leaving ign C & D . So this is what I used these are pins 6 & 19 of the 26 pin ecu plug see below This plug Once these have been added I run them in loom exiting beside original coil plug

You will need to make a sub harness for the coil on plugs the earths can be all linked together , pin2 earths these direct to the cylinder head there is a handy threaded mate hole beside inlet. For my setup I wired the ecu signal /trigger wires pin 1 for wasted spark . Meaning coils cylinder 1 & 4 trigger wire are linked together and coils cylinder 2 & 3 are linked. Pin 3 is coil live which can be looped together also which is supplied from original coil live. So this should leave you with 3 wires to terminate into a 3 pin plug like this This is how the harness

Thought I would add a Little how too guide for coil on plug with the motorsport electronics Starlet ep91 ME221 Ecu. This is how I did it with the idea being you can still use the same loom to run on standard ecu / distributor and lead setup if needed. I found it pretty difficult to find info on this conversion and hope it helps anyone wanting to do the same. Firstly I will be using Honda ep3 k20 3 wire coil on plugs ( you will need a boss welded or bonded to rocker cover to secure these down) The 3 wires to these are wired as follows You will need these also

Cheers I'm trying to simplify wiring and remove unnecessary items

Well after taking a week off from doing the car , due to me losing motivation I needed a break but ready for the final push Managed to finish throttle body and reassembled with new screws and gaskets I tapped it internally to block cold fast idle as i know these give issues and removed unwanted internal thermostat . Then turned my attention to coil on plugs first of all I terminated all wires for coil pack plugs and sussed out routing . Due to the fact the injection is batch fired on these starlets I decided to wire these as wasted spark rather than sequential. After more discussions

This week seems to have been slow going but slowly getting there. I've been concentrating on getting the engine pieced together. Involving sorting out manifold/ downpipe with heatwrap not my favouirite and fitting for the final time. Also remote oil sender kit was fitted with original sender for oil light and additional pressure sender (note original oil sender is 1/8 bspt) same as Subaru. Thanks to help on Facebook I managed to order and fit the correct an6 adapters for my zisco fuel rail (an6 - 7/8 UNF 14 tpi) not convinced they will seal first time. I also sourced a new 4efe single multi v

Cheers trying to keep motivated

Well been tidying up loose ends and trying to keep everything as light as possible. Unfortunately I have to have working front electric Windows. But I decided to ditch all original module and rewire with these little match box sizes controllers which work a treat! Then began on hopefully my last bit of wiring Due to me wanting to run coil on plugs with the me221 ecu , I had to bridge the jumpers on the ecu board for the extra ignition drivers which involved a soldering iron . After speaking to Matt at motorsport electronics I was a lot more confident in what needed done for t

Well a weak moment on eBay means I know have another multi gauge in the form of a 3.2" LCD zada tech system. I had one previously in another starlet and it's a great piece of kit. This one displays oil pressure , fuel pressure , boost and oil temp . I have managed to mount it in the drivers air vent after some f@#**ng about . So centre display will be used for egt temp , Batt voltage and lambda

Awesome How have you got on against the competition? Our class is flooded with fast Clio s

Cheers getting there. I will be running in the Scottish hillclimb/sprints class A2 road cars 1400cc to 2000cc

Cheers Been a productive week , started by fitting modded wiring loom back onto flocked dash. Then proceeded to fit dash along with all clocks etc. Replaced steering wheel along with a snap off boss. Everything seemed to fall into place so ended up making up a carbon radio blank to mount my delta dash happy days Reattached battery and engine bay wiring to check I hadn't cut out too much and luckily everything still works Although front wipers didn't work when I first fitted everything . Turned out to be a faulty wiper switch !

Cheers Still trying to remember where everything goes ! But dash bar , heater box all back in . Just modded original pedals with some skateboard grip tape.

Small update slowly coming together , note to self headlings are a nightmare to refit Rear light wiring loom reffited along with the majority of rear plastics

Finally get to bolt it back together now that the interior is painted

I understand what your saying time will tell , my theorie is the clamping force of sandwiching the disc between the hub and wheel face will add to the strength , well here is hoping Lol the problem there is usually barriers between them hills

My mates made custom rear hubs to fit pitbike rear discs too

Finally got my safety devices rear cage fitted Wasn't the best fitting cage I've had which was disappointing to say the least. However I got there in the end , now time to strip rest of soundeadining and get floor painted

Cheers I will upload more pics once I have progressed with them further. Could be a bit of trial and error unfortunately not a very cheap alternative but mega light

Cheers I probably could , but not sure what price and wouldn't machine out holes between wheel studs until I have trailed them for a while .