StanMan

Nice and subtle. Good idea at first; normally that works a treat. I have not long took the CT9 manifold off to have it welded and new gasket (the usual mild steel crack), tried that approach with the good old Snap-On soldering iron attachment, got the map gas on it and it did the trick in half the time due to the heat transfer.

The flutter you hear is the internal waste gate of the turbo, which is normal if you have a front mount intercooler fitted without an external wastegate, the 'flutter' is from the acutuator and internal wastegate doing it's job. A dump valve is what gets rid of excess boost/pressure when its not going into the intake manifold and engine after its passed the turbo. An external turbo wastegate will minimise this; as it lets pressure off before it hits the turbo normally into a screamer pipe or atmosphere. This is a pic of my 'plumbing' at a basic 220bhp level and it's spot on. by the

Easy job if the AC is removed, if not.....Good luck. Just be careful with the studs as you do not want to break one off in the head.

Just checked and it has M10 x 1.50 setpins in, bizarre, threads must have been re-tapped. Just gonna use stainless setpins again and nordlock washers.

So just to clarify, some M10 x 1.25 x 37mm overall length studs (19mm / 9mm / 10mm) & some aerotite locking nuts will get the job done properly. I cant get to my car atm to measure manifold depth, it's just a mild steel tubular one (not sure of which make).

Cheers Colin, whats the best way to make sure they stay held in place due to the temperatures they are exposed to? Brass/copper locking nuts?

Does anyone know the size & thread pitch of the 4 studs which hold the turbo housing to the manifold for a standard CT9? Gasket has started to blow and it's currently held in with 4 M10 S/S setpins with spring washers.

Found out, 46mm & 53mm just in case anyone looks in the future.

Just got a set of 2nd hand BC coilovers on the way. Does anyone know what size the C spanners are? Thanks.

Seems like the best idea. Just having a look now, nice build thread Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I have been doing a bit of searching as to putting in an oil temp gauge. However all the posts I find are old and the images/links don't work. As far as I can tell, the best way to do it is to get a 1/8th BSPT t-piece and relocate the oil pressure sender? Would THIS do the trick? Bit concerned as to the length of the line messing with the pressure reading. Or would something like THIS be more suited? Thinking about it will a temp sender even fit? Sorry if this has been asked and answered loads of times before and I cant find the post.

I have just put the 277 X 25 kit with DS2500 pads on my car and needles to say they are fantastic, car wants to to endo's and absolutely zero fade and great feeling with stock servo with the most extreme use. Quality is second to none. Calipers are mega easy to fit & bleed. I left the heat shield on but had to cut & grind it down slightly and 'tap' it It still rubbed slightly on the left side so I just took them off and binned them, I could of ground off the part that is over the arm as how I did with the right hand side. I have no doubt that with the 275 x 22 kit this would be

Did you use the bottom P21 21W / 5W bulbs? As per this guide? I have just had to do this for mot, it looks neat but cannot find a switch to fit the hole next to the high/low boost button. I have an illuminated switch in the hole atm however it is slightly too big.

Fair point, but that normally comes from atmospheric pressure. Hmmm very good point, will wind down the actuator to see if that sorts it tomorrow. I suppose lower intake charge temps would cause it due to higher air density. In all fairness I did put my hand on the intake manifold after a hard run and it was super cool. This is the 1st turbo car I have ever had so it's a learning curve. I am well versed N/A engines (Honda B & K series engines) and know a bit about aviation with superchargers/turboprops to normalise air pressure etc.

Yes I know this thanks. I'm not fussed as it was creeping exactly to whats shown on the dyno and i'm going for fordged 5E engine / TD04 hybrid at some point in the future (costs a lot of £ to do by yourself). Also I would be very cautious of even porting a CT9 as there is literally no material to work with due to the size of the turbo. The point being; it wasn't doing it before which leads me to think the actuator has finally given up. Or the boost gauge is reading wrong.

Ideas? Yesterday I got a warning from boost gauge that car was overboosting (1.4 bar) only for a second as the loud beep on the dial kicked in. I re-calibrated the boost gauge and checked connections etc, although I am suspicious as it's a 'prosport' gauge. Which imo is cheap poo I had the car mapped by Tuning Developments on 19th August (they just mapped it, no work on engine etc) . ( dyno printout http://i.imgur.com/SuzQh1U.jpg & http://i.imgur.com/dYq2lNw.jpg ) Car has been spot on boosting to little over 1 bar with creep included and I have been very happy with the res

Very interested in buying some of these when all the supply issues are sorted.

I have just done a FMIC (HDI) and had to adjust the dump valve screw (Blitz SS). Took it out for a test run (20 miles) was fine. Went to a mates house and started to drive home and gave it the beans to see how it felt. Looked up at boost gauge, holy crap.....Said I was running 1.5 bar. Let off instantly and got chatter. I was close to home luckily. Turns out the grub screw fell out of my dump valve and was stopping the dump valve from opening due to VAC pressure. I'm still running stock ECU so hopefully no damage done....Hopefully.

All on and sorted now. Made my own hangars, the ones that came with the kit were pathetic. Just gotta sort out vac line to dump valve and wait for my new air filter (guy sent wrong one) and then time to cut the hell out of the front bumper. Hammer is optional by the way

My guess is its just made in China and they don't use metric thread type and use UNC/UNF. The threads are crap anyway so i'm going to see if our fabricator at work can re-tap them. Just hope there is enough room to do so. Did you mount the hangars to the crash bar?

I'm sure that the fmic should be mounted to the crash bar via the 2 side mounts? Here is the bracket 'kit' I was given. And some pics for ref of how the car stands atm and the fmic layout.

Cheers for the pics. My FMIC does not have the bit in the top centre for support. It has 2 mounts on the bottom where the intake and exit are on the cooler and 2 on the sides near the top. Thinking i'm going to have to get the side mountings re-drilled and tapped if I can.

I am having a bit of a problem with the Jperfromance FMIC. The kit came with the usual bar & right angle mounts and then some mate setpins. These setpins only fit into the mounts located at the top of the radiator and not the ones located on the sides. The holes on the side look like they are M10 however an M10 setpin feels as though it does not want to go in. Tbh the threads look as tho they have been tapped terribly. Any suggestions from guys that have fitted these before?

Some Pics as when I brought it. About to start changing some things for more bhp and handling along with making the engine bay tidy, its a great example to start from. Bodywork is pristine and engine runs sweet as a nut; rebuild around 5000 miles ago. ATM my guess is its running around 190bhp @ .8 bar boost (with creep) on stock ECU, does not hit fuel cut/misfire after I changed to NGK #7 plugs and 8mm HT leads (no FCD). Will be doing another engine fully forged with head work etc when I can get the cash together (around 6 months) will be running TD04 Hybrid with that, if I don't decide to do