wakeabby14

8 hours ago, wickedep said:

hey mate..how you doing? back in an EP again now? good looking build so far... 

Hell Yeah! im back and ready to build a very exciting project! Thanks mate

40 minutes ago, candy_red said:

I cant wait to see this updated.

I m currently about a week away from receiving my wepr manifold and dp and cant describe how excited i am.

I m also in the same situation with parts in my garage lol although not gonna say what turbo i ll be using, ita quite similar and should take me to 400 hopefully

What ecu are you going with? I believe fiske is a fan of link ecus. I m getting the storm after i break in the engine

I will keep it updated so keep an eye out! put your own build thread up so we can all see your progres :) 

I will be going for a link monsoon probably or something similar will be running anti lag ect. 

cheers mate looking forward to this one

Im pretty happy with the rods tbh, probs come from the same factory scat make their rods at.  Last time I used them the builders said the rods were balanced very well and the machining was very good. I hope they hold up well like the other ones did and can be an option for people on tighter budgets.  But I will 100% get them to check them over before they get put in!
It is scary stuff if it goes wrong and im not usually a risk taker however due to good performance and no issues with my last build im happy to use them again everyone has to build a name and start from scratch,  Im pretty sure some big bhp supras are running them over 800bhp on the forums, seen loads of good results on the miata forum too. 
yeah its super quiet shame really thanks for reading  

 

Hello everyone did not take long for me to get a Glanza back after breaking it in may this year, only lasted 3 months and have one back again.

So here is a new build thread

Here is a link to my old build thread if you want to see what I did to my old glanza, I did do miles more than what is listed on the old one, I forged it ect made 295bhp but sold it due to bad paint work.

Spec list when i got the car...
Cusco cage (dash avoided)
Harness bar
6 pot ksport calipers
Blitz nurspec exhaust
Rota wheels
Zilla bucket seats
BC racing coil overs
HEL abs delete kit
AEM wideband
Multiple gauges
Civic half rad
FPR
FMIC
Other bits and bobs ect..

Current full spec list:

Engine:
5EFE Block (Bored to 75mm)
5EFE Crank
5E Conversion Fly wheel
Wossner 75mm 8:0.1 Pistons
Max Speeding forged connecting rods
ACL Main bearings
ACL Conrod bearings
ACL Thrust Washers
ARP Headbolts
ARP Main studs
1.4mm Cometic MLS head gasket
Skimmed block 8thou
New OEM Crank seals
New OEM Oil pump
New OEM Knock sensor
New Oil pressure switch
New Water pump
New cam belt kit
5E sump drilled to suit turbo oil drain
Kinugawa 19mm sump oil drain
Magnetic sump plug
Polybushed engine mount

Cylinder head:
5E Cylinder head
5EFHE cams 1mm+ bigger intake lift than efe and efte cams 
TD Uprated valve springs
Gasket matched
Ported and smoothed Intake runners
Ported and smoothed exhaust runners
Ported and smoothed Valve bowls
Cut down valve guides inside intake runners
3 Angle valve job
11 new toyota shims for perfect clearances
Skimmed 8thou
New OEM valve stem seals
New Cam seals
New Injector tube seals
New rocker cover gasket
New Dizzy O ring
Vapor blasted surfaces
Smoothed rocker cover
AN10 Breather fittings

Turbo kit setup:
Kinugawa GTX2860R .60ar ceramic dual ball bearing turbo (powder coated red)
Tial .52 GTX series exhaust turbo housing
WEPR GTX series top mount manifold
WEPR 3" Vband down pipe
WEPR Screamer pipe
Genuine Tial external 38mm vband wastegate
Turbo blanket
Tial Vband clamps for turbo and down pipe

Ignition/fueling/electronics:
Link Storm X 2020 ECU
Link custom ECU harness to support stock plugs
Link Knock sensor
Racecal K20 coil loom
Honda K20 ignition coils
Electronic boost solenoid 
ID1050x Injectors
Iridium heat range 8 Spark plugs
Tuning Developments High flow fuel rail
SYTEC Fuel pressure regulator with braided AN6 fuel lines
Walbro 350lph fuel pump
WICKEDEP Racing intake manifold
Tuning Developments full 3inch custom exhaust
AEM Wideband gauge
AEM Oil gauge
Various control switches
 
Brakes/suspension/transmission:
Ksport 6pot calipers (front)
Ksport grooved disks (front)
Hel Braided front brake lines
ABS delete kit
Stock calipers on the rear
grooved disks (rears)
BC racing coilovers all round
C56 glanza gearbox with Quaife ATB LSD 

Interior:
EVO 9 Recaro seats
Suede style steering wheel
Quick release boss
98 spec rear interior

Exterior:
XXR 551 15' Alloy wheels
98 spec front bumper uncut
OEM optional extra front lip
Yellow JDM fogs
LIVESPORTS rear spoiler
JAM rear bumper
MID spoiler
Rear wiper arm delete
JDM REAR FOG LIGHT
 

Cooling/Engine bay/ misc:
Civic twin core alloy half rad
RW developments Oil catch can
Front mount Intercooler

 

Ok so work I have done so far...
Removed WEPR topmount TD04 kit sold for funds
Pre fitted the new top mount
Pulled the engine and sold the engine, already picked up a super low mileage 5e engine around 30k miles ready for forging.
Removed and sold rear bumper with OEM lip and got a jam bumper to replace it that it currently in paint.
Livesports spoiler in paint.
Started cleaning engine bay up.
oh and spent a shit ton of cash to fund the build as you can see in these images

Car when I got it

https://imgur.com/h7ZQeis

Pre fitted the new top mount prior to engine been pulled.

5E engine picked up for a good mate of mine phil lowery

Rear bumper removed due to selling glanza bumper and rear lip needs a clean will get around to that before undersealing the rear bumper metal work.

After the engine was pulled I gave the bay a long good clean, still work to be done don't have a before photo but it was fully grafted and almost black before looks so much cleaner now , will be sanding and covering the looms up ect ready to paint and freshen up the bay ready for the forged lump to be put in.

Here are some of the parts that I have started collecting in my room may have a problem haha...  engine should be in the machine shop in a week or 2.
I know this will more than likely be mentioned but don't diss the maxspeeding rods 😉 used them on my last build to 300bhp, they are rated to 225+bhp per cylinder im aiming for 400 so I can be a Guinee pig for the community and see if they cope with bigger BHP builds. Keep an eye out on updates!

Also got a RW developments oil catch can like on my old build love these things great presence in the engine bay!

Future plans for the coming months...

1) In December I have booked my cylinder head to be fully ported and polished by Liam at LC porting cant wait for that.. after that head will be getting TD uprated valve springs which I have already purchased not going down the cam route yet unless a decent set pop up on one of the for sale pages.
2) Engine will be getting built by my local engine builders that built my engine last time (genesis engine's in hull) did a great job and no issues at all with the other forged build.
3) Once Ive done the long and boring 1500 miles run in and multiple oil changes I will be taking the car to fiske to get a standalone ECU fitted and have a coil on plug conversion done due to the dizzy maxing out around 360bhp usually.

Other than that in the mean time just going to buy other parts like injectors, LSD, high flow fuel rail, and anything else I fancy haha!

Don't see many people post on here anymore so enjoy a more frequent build thread to read when I get uploading on here.

Mine was built by Genesis engines in hull. Great builders and know what they are on about. 

2 hours ago, maddox710 said:

Had one on my old glanza, not really much point if I'm honest, really old tech turbo to start with and just by slapping a billet wheel on it doesn't do a damn thing 

Ahh fair one, VF35 too big? 

Bump

I have my forged 4EFTE sat in my garage right now waiting to be put in, Im trying to choose a turbo for 300-330 BHP.

I like the look of the TD05 16G but I might have a billet wheel put in to reduce the spool tile slightly.  Im planning on running around 1.4-1.5 BAR.

Can you guys make any good suggestions of turbos, this includes the VF series turbos.

Let me know cheers. 

Dont suppose you would swap your top mount kit for a ram horn kit from wepr ;) Wish i went top mount now gutted haha! £250 was a bargain for that kit.  Great GT! 

Does anyone know the size of the 11 blade billet wheel used on the TD TD04 hybrid,  I would rather build my own than pay over 500 smackers for one.

cheers josh 

9 hours ago, Gainzy said:

I always refer to sefton's build, it's the pefect parts for the 300 mark..i'd always include LSD fpr and an oil cooler. I also have a spare gearbox here for when you get launch control haha also suggest a delimiter unless you do go EMU. I see alot of people opting for massive turbo's which is each to their own but I can't understand the need with how light these cars are the chance's are the gearbox won't cope up top end and wheelspin galore so you kinda lose a big turbo glory through transmission, lag, engine size, boost limitations, lightness not double clutching like ya should hahaha the done to death hybrid billet TD04 has been done to death simply because it works the best on our tiny engine's on forged internals without spending crazy cash. Just my view I have been out in a 300 V I can't justify anymore driveable power lol

Cheers for that one mate, ill have a look through seftons build,  LSD is 100% on the cards just need to get the box rebuilt and have one put in.  Im probs going to go with a TD04 billet hybrid then as i dont want tonnes of wheel spin. 

22 minutes ago, gorganl2000 said:

as you have the Subaru flange manifold, then td05 16g, vf35, vf34, vf28,----or equivalent billet hybrid to these items.

items you can save on by continuing to use the oem parts----fuel rail and "maybe" rrfpr...the stock ones work fine

if going with emanage, i'd recommend emanage ultimate...its an improvement on the blue and not much more cost wise

Thanks for the input mate, Im gonna have a good look as i would love a ball bearing turbo, I already have the fuel rail and rrfpr I dont mind paying a bit extra for those shiney bits haha!   To be honest the Ultimate would be a nice option as i would like launch control.  Cheers  

Im sure this comes up time and time again but its always nice to have a refresh plus i would like to know all my options.  Im currently building a forged engine and im going to list my full spec list what it is going to like once completed.  What i want to know is what are my turbo options I know the majority of people are going to say TD04 hybrid but i want to be different if i can or go for TD04 hybrid first then change in the future to a different option.  I like the look of the TD05 16G but people say it is very laggy.  Of course my goal is to hit that magic 300BHP figure so what do you guys suggest.

Spec:
Wossner 74.5MM flat top style pistons
1.4MM Athena MLS gasket
Max Speeding Forged Conrods with ARP studs
Full rebuild head with new valve stem seals/carbon removed/ Valves reseated (not ported or polished as not needed for the power i wish to achieve)
ARP Head bolts
WEPR Ramhorn TD/TF/VF manifold
Tial External wastegate 
Full ACL Engine bearing kit
430cc Denso yellow injectors
TD high flow fuel rail
Sytec Fuel pressure regulator with braided fuel lines
Gforce 2 electronic boost controller
Probably Emanage Blue ECU but undecided would like to go standalone but dont want to spend loads on it suggestions would be nice!!
RW developments catch can + race spec rocker cover.
 

4 minutes ago, daniel_g said:

Studs are better but you have to strip the block down, ie rods and pistons out the machine the block. The head needs work aswell.

ARP bolts will be good enough for most builds.

thanks mate appreciate it 

38 minutes ago, maddox710 said:

Waste of time and money with studs(unless using large garret running big big boost numbers)  just get bolts 

sound nice one mate! Will do

24 minutes ago, daniel_g said:

The head bolts are straight fit.

Its the head studs that require machine work.

Is it better to go for studs or bolts?  Is it correct when you use studs, you need to do machine work near the cams in the head so you can fit a socket bit in to tighten them up? 

Does the block need to be drilled to support them or do they fit in the existing head bolt holes. 

Cheers

Thanks for all the replies guys. 

39 minutes ago, maerijn said:

Gold plug is pretty good imo

will check them out cheers thanks for the reply 

Whats magnetic sumps are you all using i dont like alloy as they are so soft and just suck.  I want a good quality one with a super strong magnet on it as will need it for my spare engine im going to forge and want as much of the the swaf collected as possible. 

Cheers josh 

Clean up on isle pants.   God im jealous can just imagine all the fun with that box 

On 1/26/2018, 11:31:04, hutchy1990 said:

Looking mint mate keep it up

Cheers lad! I want your livesports bumper haha so jelly 

On 15/01/2018, 19:03:45, gorganl2000 said:

just a quick question, how much room do you have to change the oil filter with this set up? is it an easy or difficult task?

from the picture, the oil filter looks very close to the turbo compressor housing---but could just be the angle

also, with the upgraded/hybrid td04L (bigger compressor housing), how easy is it to get to the oil filter now?

 

thanks for any input you can provide,,,,i like this kit, but just want to see your experiences

Loads of room no problem with the oil filter its just the angle. No difference to the hybrid turbo as the compressor housing is the same size just bored out to support a 20T billet wheel. Any more info let me know! 

29 minutes ago, akyakapotter said:

Do a blink test bud will give you a code then go from there. 

CLICK ME

Cheers nick 

Cheers bud! i dont recon its anything major as it seems all normal to me and no loss of power. Will do it on my day off on monday! 

Only came on last night for the first time.  I have noticed now that it will only come on once the car is up to operating temperature when the car is cold it will not show. Any ideas?