Claymore

On 11/12/2023 at 10:20 AM, burty said:

Absolutely gutted for you

Always kept track of this build and was honestly one of my favourites 

Thanks mate 👍.

19 hours ago, akyakapotter said:

That sucks you replacing it? Or that the end of the road for starlets. 

I honestly don't know mate.

The thing is, if I buy a starlet, I'll just build the kit back into it and then its done again. It makes the most sense though as I have all the parts I stripped.

I've been to see 2 x 4efe powered corolla's (both were bullshit) and a paseo that had serious corrosion to the sills and arches. No luck so far.

But I also like a new challenge and the way I see it, time is running out. There are so many projects I want to build.

The car got T-boned whilst I was out for a nice quiet drive, written off as Cat S/C. Luckily no-one was hurt.

Stripped and scrapped.

R.I.P. Nanza.

Full details of the build series are here: https://www.youtube.com/@dan91sgarage

Fitted some SR 98 spec rev counter clocks

Hundreds of other little jobs, welded in a turbo oil drain to the sump, used a Glanza manifold vacuum tube for the map references for DV and boost gauge. Used a oil filter sandwich plate for the turbo oil feed as I had made the custom exhaust mani to allow clearance for it and a full size oil filter.

So the det 3 + was mapped for fuelling with safe retard on the timing for boost and then...

Toyosports intercooler with universal 51mm pipe kit. (managed to get the original IAT sensor installed without welding ;-)). K and N air filter.

Det 3 + piggy back install along with 4efte injectors, AEM wide band and Turbosmart boost gauge.

Wideband wired to Det 3 for datalogging

Time for a long overdue, final update for Nanza.

Gonna be a bit of a photo dump for the turbo build series I did on YouTube. Unfortunately the car was written off in a traffic collision a few months ago and it seemed fair to finish this thread on the forum.

Made my own turbo log manifold and down pipe.

Welded a 3" sport cat into the piss poor TD 3" glanza exhaust

Used a maxpeedingrods TD04 turbo that needed port matching to the manifold.

Top notch parts there mate, Turbo looks awesome. Looking forward to the build. 

13 hours ago, burty said:

Right it's been a while and I can assure you all builds still going strong inner sills repaired outer arch replaced and new outer sill replaced  these as earlier mentioned are from estonia and the the welder told me they are much thicker and far better quality than the originals all primed up and ready for paint 

now to the other side 

Excellent progress mate 

12 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

You couldn’t be more clear! This all came to my head because back in the day is Sam told me about it. I was just curious to know if it was worth it but after what you said I’m going to stick to other mods! I’m going to upload new information about diffusion of the car soon! 

Excellent, looking forward to the updates on the build 

To be honest Frankie I would say that the fte inlet manifold is the best suited option for the 4efte engine with the CT9 turbo, personally I would just stick with what you have.

As RobSR has said the corolla plenum is the smallest volume of all 3 common inlet manifolds, and has the longest runners which will magnify low down torque but will most likely lose power at the top end of the rev range as they're smaller diameter than fte.

The other issues off the top of my head are:

46mm diameter inlet flange on rolla manifold (needs the flange welding onto the plenum, or when you bore it out to 50mm for the fte TB the flange will fall off), IAT boss needs welding on, some sort of boss / remote setup for the IACV and the vac tube thing aswell (some people delete the iacv and wax stat, but unless its a "racecar" build I can't see it being much fun to live with), lack of vacuum sources for dump valve (maybe a vacuum block)...

Concentrate your time, money and effort on other mods.

39 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said:

Thank you for your feedback. The knocking noise happens when the engine is cold and I believe that it is a matter of tolerance between parts in the gearbox. When the engine gets warmer the noise is lower but then I have the gear inserts problem. Mostly when the engine is warm sometimes at the red light I can’t even get any gear in until I have to push it in. If CV joints or cables would be faulty then the problem would be all the time but it happens sometimes. Back in the days when my mechanic replaced the gearbox with the same one because the third gear was making noise, I got a better working gearbox but it still wasn’t perfect and I believe that after 120,000 km the problem got worse. I found some oil between the gearbox and the engine underneath the slave clutch pump. One of the reasons of the failure might be loss of oil pressure that doesn’t get the clutch off properly. I will order a new part and replace it with the new gearbox. I just found out that the gearbox I want to buy is not a C 56 but a C 52 instead from an EP 82 4efte. I read that because of the gear radio is different it isn’t a good option compared to the C 56. What do you think about this?

I would check the gearbox has oil in it, also check if the oil has shiny metal particles from worn synchros. Replace and bleed clutch cylinders. Not sure about the differences in gear ratios from c52 to c56.

On 11/21/2022 at 10:23 PM, burty said:

Thankyou it really is my forever car I've got some more updates on parts and the outer arch is now on il get some pics up 

Love the na 11 years is some time 

Nice to know there is progress from the body shop after all the effort you went to sourcing the parts. Looking forward to the photos. 

1 hour ago, Frankieflowers said:

@Claymorehi there. Long time no speak!

I had a good good good time driving the car with the turbo engine and the Corolla 4efe gearbox. The gearbox wasn’t fresh it had already some synchronization issues plus probably the clutch master or slave release is leaking and it bothers putting in gears sometimes. I will replace them. Regarding the gearbox I still haven’t understood if Glanza V C56 is stronger and more reliable compared to my gearbox that should be a C140-150. My car is heavier compared to the starlet which means that shorter gears in the first gears help the engine and it is fun to drive. The C56 gearbox has longer shifts on the first, second and third gear. As you were The first two advise keeping my gearbox, I would like your advise whether or not to keep it buying a refurbished one or to switch to the turbo C 56 one. 

As far as I know the C56 gearbox is stronger (apparently it has thicker gears, never taken one apart personally: https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/109178-gearbox-help/?tab=comments#comment-1234023).

I would make sure that all the suspect faulty parts you have found (clutch cylinders, release bearing, check your engine and gearbox mounts (knocking noises), gearshift cables / brackets, cv joints etc) are fixed to confirm gearbox is the problem.

Most c56 will be well used by now, most good condition gearboxes are in cars being used not sat in garages as spares, so budget for a rebuild if you buy it, also check if parts are available to rebuild then now? Your gearbox was also old with many km's and may not have lasted much longer anyway. 

Great stuff, always a relief to hear it run again after a long build. 

Something was bugging me about the cam cover though. Looks like a converted 4efe item, not sure if it's just the photos but it doesn't look as if the original hole for the intake pipe breather has been blocked?

Might be worth checking before it sprays oil vapour out!

Great to see the progress mate. Will all be worth it in the end. 

17 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

@ClaymoreI solved the problem changing the thermostat. The gasket was loose so the cover wasn’t sealing properly. This happened I think because are used a different thermostat that I don’t remember who suggested me was better to keep the engine temperature lower for the reason that the spark plugs were white gray. So I put back the OEM thermostat I had in the box and no more leak! Thank you for your help. 

It was Sam44 that suggested you use a low temp. thermostat. I just supplied the part number in case you wanted to try it. 

I personally don't like them and only use the normal one for the engine.

In your photo it looks like the seal got pinched and cut the bottom off it.

Happy that it's all sorted now. 

The orange "string" looks like gasket sealant used to seal the thermostat housing to the head? Too much sealant can come off and then got stuck in the thermostat I guess. Hope the heads ok.

Did you use a Genuine Toyota head gasket for the rebuild?

9 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Found it...

IMG_8271.MOVUnavailable

 

Can't see the movie.

Glad you found it, where was the leak?

16284-11040 is the part number for the rubber hose that feeds coolant to and from the turbo. 2 required per vehicle. But you would see if that was the leak.

Idle speed problems (2000rpm) could also be the idle air control valve. I would do a diagnostic check also just in case there are any codes.

If it was my car, I would get the cooling system pressure tested at your mechanics and when you have found the problem then change the tap water for pre mixed coolant. It's unlikely to freeze in summer and it won't be in the engine long enough to do any mineral damage. Your choice really.

1 hour ago, Frankieflowers said:

Hi guys.

Something weird happened. A mid pitch tone blowing noise came out in second gear while accelerating. The noise came out after the engine head has been rectified. The most obvious reason could be the inlet not being perfectly tight on the head. Let me know your thoughts. Don’t tell me it could be one of the intercooler hoses because I checked them several times.

The second weird thing that could be much worse is that yesterday evening RPM went weirdly up around 2500 going up and down. Right after water temperature started to raise quickly so I turned the engine off. I waited until I could open the radiator and noticed that it was dry. Two weeks ago I checked the water level that never has been an issue on this engine and the previous 4EFE. The water level was OK. I still put some extra liquid because I was about to travel 350 km. I don’t know what happened yesterday but I want to know your opinion. An old turbo water hose leaking? The big hoses are completely fine. I didn’t find any sugar around. The thermostat housing is perfect. New thermostat changed a few months ago. The engine never had any temperature issue. 
Listen to this. A famous mechanic I know said that when you do the process of rectification on the head level you might be careful to not create a gap that could get fire in and burn the gasket. There is a calculation you can do to see if you are within parameters but nobody does that. I don’t trust the people that did the job and I might be right. The water went somewhere. I never had temperature raising so what could’ve happened?

That could be a lot of things Frankie.

Coolant hose / radiator leak, should be able to see / smell. Bad radiator cap not holding pressure.

Head gasket failure (is there white smoke from the exhaust or coolant and oil mixing?) was it a genuine Toyota gasket? If you take the spark plugs out and shine a torch down in to look at the pistons they should have black soot on them. If they are clean then water is steam cleaning them. The do kits to test for CO2 in coolant.

The wax thermostat on the Throttle body has coolant to warm it up, could it have corroded through (high idle 2500 going up and down?) leaking into inlet manifold? Unlikely.

I've had a heater matrix burst before (wet carpet, smell of coolant in car)

Its weird that the radiator was empty, but you then filled it up and next time you checked it was ok.

Think most people used the HKS SLD, some piggyback ecu's can delete it or a speedo cable reduction gearbox. But this last one changes the speedo to mph and raises the speed limit to 180mph as far as I can remember.

Great stuff! 

Did you buy the Turbo crankshaft or was it a nice surprise when you pulled the engine apart? 

Looking forward to this.

2 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Thank you. The first question is how can I get rid of the stock speed limiter? Can I install the Piggyback and just get rid of that to start?

we already modified the exhaust opening the turbo side ports. It’s similar to what you posted on your thread.  Is this enough??

I don't think it's enough, I didn't remove much material from the + in the turbo side. The big restrictions are in the #2 and #3 runners, so your restrictions are still there. My build thread shows where to remove material. Or if you don't want to grind it you should buy a tubular manifold before you increase the boost.

The speed limit removal can be either electronic (hks sld) or a mechanical gearbox thing connected to the speedo drive cable, but that will change the speedo reading.

8 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Thank you very much. So at first they told me it was better to go with a EMU CLASSIC but aa I wanted to keep AC and RPM cluster working, I dropped the option, esperially because I don’t want to change the stock ct9. My tuner came with the idea of the DET 3 and I agree but The thing is that he doesn’t have experience with that piggyback and he doesn’t know my 4efte engine. He said that 1.2 bar on the ct9 wouldn’t be a problem. What do you think? I want to get rid of the limiter that cuts ignition at 185 km/h. I don’t need much more horsepower because I already have fun with what I have. So yes I could reach 180 HP and be happy. Hi also would want to keep the low boost switch to jump from 0,9 stock to 1.2.

what do you think about it?

Well, 1.2 bar from a stock CT9 sounds like too much to me. I don't think I'd push one that far, as I said before it will be producing very hot air and not be good for power. Most say that 1 bar is the limit really. Boost cut is around 0.8 bar so you'll have to deal with that too. You can go for a ct9 hybrid turbo if you need more power. You already have an air filter, intercooler and exhaust downpipe, fuel pump upgrade so that's good.

You will need to port the restrictions from the cast exhaust manifold in runners 2 and 3 or replace it with a tubular item if your increasing the boost. If you don't there is a danger of piston ring land damage apparently. Also the CT9's are quite famous for boost creep, so upping the boost may cause this. You may need a ported wastegate in the turbo.

I would install a wideband O2 sensor and gauge before doing anything. Then port / replace the exhaust manifold. Then a HKS adjustable actuator set to just below boost cut and see how it feels at 0.75bar. You might be happy with it there for a while.

4 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Nobody ever replied? I really want to upgrade to this piggyback but there are too many questions and gray zones. That is why I I still hold on to my stock tc9 and ecu. Anyway to get decent horsepower it will need special rods, pistons and a strong gearbox. In my opinion a td04 is only gonna stress the stock mechanics. . 

 

Hello. My tuner at the beginning told me the best option was a EMU Classic. Then I told him that I wanted to keep my air conditioning and RPM cluster and working so he said that probably it was better to use a piggyback. The only thing that worries me is that he said that the DET 3 has just been released but I know this is not true. I told them back in the day is about it but he wouldn’t even think about it. So I would like to ask if I could work on a map by myself without fucking up.

Plenty of people use TD04 setups on 4efte engines, most consider 200bhp "safe" on stock internals and the larger turbo will still be in its efficiency range where as the stock ct9 at this bhp level will most likely be off the edge of the efficiency map (high temp charge air).

I don't post on the other forum but it all depends on what level you want to be involved in the tuning process and how much control you need for your build.

Piggyback is basic level control, minimal wiring, only retarding timing and adjusting MAP sensor voltage to trick the Toyota ECU to adjust fuel. relatively simple to tune.

Things like Emanage ultimate are still a piggyback, more complex wiring, take full control of the injector pulse and timing control whilst leaving the stock ECU in place to run some of the car systems. Many standalone ECU's have also been installed this way using a special plug and play (breakout?) harness, it can get to a level where the stock ecu is still kept (for auto g'box a/c etc), standalone ecu has full control of engine management with looms for sequential injection and coil on plug etc. Ask @RobSR, he deals with this all the time. More complicated to tune.

Full standalone, lots of wiring, no stock ECU, very complex to tune. Wiring should be ok but tuning best left to the professionals.

Tuning on the road with any system is far from ideal, fuelling adjustment from WBO2 data logs are possible, but the timing retard is difficult to set for maximum, safe power without detonation cans / monitoring and best left to the safe environment of a dyno.