Clinternational

Runs as it should. Very good vacuum value for ITBS

N/A gearboxes also die without a turbo on a 5efe haha..  matter of age and how it's been treated. I think that torque kills them faster... 4efte gearbox option.

Going to follow this 5EFTE engine build  

I got a garret T4 for my 5efe. I think a gtx28 would be far better. Also an td05 16g, hear that alot

Really nice build you got there, love it   

Amazing those headlights. Did something like that on my ep70. 

Keep up de nice work

On 1/22/2018 at 2:50 PM, Healey said:

My walbro 255 packed in the other day and left me stranded so i had to put the original back in. Just ordered a Kemso 340 to try out and see if its any good as there isn't many reviews and its only £30

Im pretty curious to the kemso 340 fuel pump. Some say you really need an fuel pressure regulator because of the power it has. sytec fuel pumps 255 are also good but noisy

On 8/1/2018 at 11:51 PM, akyakapotter said:

to be honest i think my crank is worn hence leaking oil. That seal was new not long ago was a slight score mark on the crank when I installed it. 

 

box is almost back in just need a little help lifting it in to place in the morning fill it with oil refit the other bits and cross my fingers. 

cheers nick. 

 

Try genuine toyota seals. I got bad experiance with jap products and other brands also had them in my gearbox for like 3 months they start leaking. Bought new seals at toyota, problem solved.

You can also grind the crank a little with 800 3m sandpaper that way it seals better....  Get the score mark out.

Thanks for the help, I figured the fuel pump is worn...

Added an Sytec fuel pressure regulator and an fuel pressure gauge.

Found a rusty place. And grind a litte hole on the right rear wheel area behind the plastic trim.

Fitted an simons open muffler on the rear

Found a funny way so that the muffler wont fall off :P

needed some space.

Same colour, The roof, hood, and trunk shall be wrapped.

Does anyone know what fuel pump problems do. My Paseo shows 17 AFR at WOT in 3de gear. after a while it goes back to 14. ( still 3de gear ) 
checked the engine at idle and yanked the throttle steady 2.9 bar. and 2.3 at idle.

Yesterday fixed my headlights.

Cleaning the headlights with water and soap

Sanding 800 wet
Sanding 1200 wet
Sanding 2000 wet
Cleaning headlight with alcohol
Motip plastic primer 2 layers
Spray max 2k clear coat 3 layers

Also updated the emanage with the pc version 1.49 and mounted it under the dash. No error codes anymore

Need to prepare the car for a spray job.
 

Stainless steel 45 degree on the intake pipe. and fitted 3 hose tails and temp sens into it.

Toyota Prius brake discs drilled 255 x 25mm 

Toyota celica GT4 Turbo / V6 camry station caliper + Custom Goodridge brake lines.

Got the Emanage hooked up.

With only the basic harness. Rpm signal, map sensor Pink wire cut and map side to the white and green wire  toward the ecu side, ground en +B 

When i turned the ignition on, the active led starts to blink green were it should be "solid". And when i start the car the green led turns into a fast blinking red light. 

When i read out the code it blinks 2 times red. Supposed to be code 11 airflow signal 1 error according instruction manual. But car runs better than before.

In all gears the afr wil be stoich the aem gauge swipes between 14.0 16.0 under normale driving. All the 5 potientalmeters are 0. emanage still flashes red. So the emanage works. Only at wot it goes to 18 and --- on the afr and after 2 seconds it turns back to 12.0. 

When i turn the first potentialmeter a little bit to the left i can see that the afr gauge shows leaner it goes towards the 16.0 18.0 when i throttle a bit it goes back to stoich readings.
the yellow led also kicks in when i turn it. So pretty weird that during the fault code the emanage still reacts to modification on the potentialmeter...

Pink wire coming from the map sensor is 1.8v and pink wire going to the ecu is 1.6v. So the emanage is reducing the signal output.

The funny thing is when i disconnect the pink wire from the ecu i stil can start the car and it runs steady on 12.0 afr LOL Is the lambda controlling the ecu and engine ? 

Also beeped the wires from the map sensor to the ecu. everything is as it should be. Why the error code on the emanage ?

Emanage has been mapped for an td04 glanza all settings are for the 4efte. Can anyone tell me if the map sensor from an 4efte is the same as for an 5efe ? Toyota part number ?

I know the the mapsensor from the 4efte can also see positive pressure. But at idle it isn't a deal i asume.

Please help, I know the emanage is not really supporting an 5efe engine but seen them on other engine too. 

Where is my IGF signal hahaha. The pin is not insert into the harness so it seems, how does the ecu know that a spark event as occurred. Have been beeping all wires going to the ecu with the multimeter 1 pin on the distributor plug the 2 pins.

So I had to pull a cable from the distributor the Black/Blue one.

The -IG also connects to the black/blue wire for the distributor. I know the wire also goes to the tachometer. But why not the ecu then ? i don't get it...

5EFE ECU PINOUT BELOW LINK, number 7 should be IGF but i have no IGF signal lol

https://epbible.weebly.com/uploads/1/7/1/4/1714854/7434828_orig.gif

Spray painting that trim at the wipers looks really good. I know how ugly the can fade haha need to do mine also.

Nice work!

True. first gen 5efe have really thin rods. Second Gen II has a little thicker rods. And the best option is 5EFHE rods they can take +- 360 bhp

But with the stock second gen 5efe you can run safely arround the 250 bhp if the ecu is well mapped.. 

I've seen fully forged engine blown up when the engine were cold. too much throttle haha.  It's just a matter on how you drive it and take care of it... 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/sleepyrz/Conrod-Comparison-side-face.jpg

Awesome diy skills outstanding  

Car looks mint. pretty enoying those engine failures. But you fixed it!

Love the exhaust  so neat.

On 7-4-2018 21:54:42, 5T4R7ET N/A said:

If you want to bring the air temps down a bit more then get a catch can vented to atmosphere. 

The stock setup had hot crank case gases pumped in

Got it ;) your post let me start to think also on other things. 

So i've done some things.

Drill out the PCV valve with 10mm drill

Now it's just a 90 degree pipe fitting

Had my old catch can laying arround so used that fixing and mounting brace, hoses had to be extended

Also i deleted an vacuum hose from the intake ( the one that is connected to the pcv ) which result in a very good AFR ratio on an cold and hot engine at idle 

https://youtu.be/U1V7KW9ZFls

Also received my greddy emanage today with full harness. So can use this as i put my turbo on, i think it's to big to spool its a Garret 48ar exhaust T4 turbo 60 trim With updated 360 trust bearing.

Nice build mate, Whats up with the swap from emanage to COP ? whats the diffrences between those ?

I know emanage is out of date :P

9 hours ago, Calum122 said:

Hey looking good bud. Like what you're doing wth this project :D

Thanks. 

4 hours ago, Sudden said:

nice work, any chances of a video clip of the engine revving with the plenum? :D

Will make a vid very soon mate,

today it was warm outside, about 22/24 degree celcius in the netherlands. 
My intake temp was showing 42 degree celcius so i was like what the fuck. ( also did the hood rais mod ) When i stoped because of a red light and the radiator fan turned on, the intake temp raised to about 55 degree, i was like CRAP too hot. 

So i did come up with something CAI fixed in about 20 minutes. 

Now the intake temp stays arround the 22 degree, +- 2 degree celcius

Car feels a bit beter on acceleration mayby because the intake pipe is longer and little bit narrower. Manifold runners OD is 40, to 45mm throttle bodies, otherside ITBS are 50mm then plenum is 70mm then from 70mm to 76mm at the 45 degree pvc martens pipe. then back from 76mm to 58mm alu pipe. then the 45 degree silicone is 58mm to 63mm hahaha.

Still have to swap out the ugly pvc martens 45 degree pipe. 

p.s i still need air velocity because its an N/A so a smaller pipe can do that if the tech science is right. :P

On 6-2-2018 01:13:41, jiggaman_16 said:

I like the approach taken in terms of modification to the Paseo mate. 

Thanks

New stainless steel piece

Fixing the damage mate of mine works at mercedes so i know he can do this haha

On the left the old original cusco spherical bearing. On the right new spherical bearing with cusco dust cover. This spherical bearing is made in the uk. The qualitie also looks much better then the cusco one.

Cutting the mani 

Toyota IDLE control it has to be connected otherwise the engine light will lit

Testing the stuff

Modified the Idle control. 

Support for the plenum chamber ( will go turboing this 5EFE )

The sound with plenum chamber is really elegant vs the little pod filters it really screams and makes very nice torque improvement, Runner length and diameter is very importend. 

Most of the time my tires losses grip duo to the long stroke and good torque. 

The AFR is quite good,. except when the engine is cold it's 10.0.  After 3 minutes its 12.8 when idle. On light load also arround 12.5 / 13.0. And at WOT it swifts like it does on idle when the car is stock haha.... Have to change the map input signal and or map the car, just bought an old Greddy Emanage

Bought me a cheap ass paseo for 350 quid. Now with 139k miles on it. And has been build on 1999 / 9

Didn't have MOT and Timing belt was like 12000 miles overtime and more than 5 years old.  

Had a little damage on the right door and rear fender. Previous owner drove to close to a pole
Headlights were a little bit foggy.

MOT problems were

After the MOT i saw much rust underneath the car. The car has been on a farm with a gravel road to it lol like it has been sandblasted everyday. 

Also the sump pan was heavily rusted so removed most of it carefully, Then put a layer of liquid gasket onto it as a temporary fix

Replaced the 

Timing belt
Idler
Tension pulley
Crankseal OEM
Oilpumpseal OEM
Serpetine belt 2 x OEM
Rotor OEM
Sparkplugs  Also did a dry compression test all 4 cylinders 12 bar / 174 psi
Castrol Engine Oil
Oil Filter OEM
Airfilter > HKS pod
Castrol Gearbox Oil
Clutch Dot4 oil
PCV Valve OEM

Paseo on 15 ""Rays Engineering ( VOLKS ) Gunmetal ( unlowered )

Ford escort tweeters 

Logitech z5500 sattelite in the adaptor for the rear

Batterie relocated + z5500 subwoofer + Converter from 12v to 220v 

Also replaced the horn with VW snakehouse 

Fitted CV unit with immobilser and remote trunk opener.

Disconnected the keyfunction, and added the motor for trunk release, cable still functional

Replaced the panhard rod with Cusco spherical bearing one.

Had to replace 1 lower arm ball joint

Air compressor custom water separators, There is still vacuum applied here, so it suck the gasses right out of the carter..

Some maintance, Paseo on the rear is 10mm wider and front 20mm

Intake temp, volt, EGT, Also AEM gauge and Wideband bosch sensor onboard.

Needs to be fitted

Prius cross drilled 25mm brakediscs

Replacement for the whiteline swaybar on the rear, stainless steel 7mm thick

Throttle bodies

AS FOR THE CURSED paseo.
3 cars have hit me in 6 months
2x Renault master White bus and red bus lol
1x My best friend drove here car to close to my rear bumper and scraped paint off it. 

Total wrecked lol last accident, Will receive 1300 quid for this LOL

Previous accident, Received 886 quid for it lol. 

Fitted the lower arm bar to the paseo

m18x1.5 bung welded into the pipe i need to know if the throttle bodies keep the AFR the same.

Calipers in the primer, Sensor needs to be cleaned, to do so i use a torch on butaan and burn the sensor clean. Also work on regular lambda probes. These only have to be replaced if the warming circuit is busted.

Find out that one lower ball joint has play, ( i thought not ) but check it out extra on the hydraulik lift with an tire iron. New replacements are crap they die after 1 year maybe 2. So i choose for an second hand off an p9 with 60.000 miles on it. New at toyota 60 quid lol.

Throtte body sensor mounting adaptor

Oke duidelijk......

90311-35040

What an moron at the desk lol. He said i have the seal for the camshaft, but the crackshaft seal needs to be ordered.

No. Just checked that at toyota. As i thought my camshaft seal was busted. I changed my crankshaft seal and oilpump seal both were leaking.