Clinternational

More photos will come!! on the turbo etc etc etc

Be carefull on the LSD ;) hihi..... trippen!

ohh my god!! what did you do!!!! No hole in the piston but hole in the valve

abuse ? NOT GOOD!

But anyway how does the piston rings looks like....

When i had retarted ignition ( premature ) not only the valve;s were bend but 2 piston rings cracked and 2 piston rings turned out blue duo to the heat + pistons ring land was busted. But they came out 0 zero pressure during compression test... on cil 1 and 2.

Mayby check them if your unsure.

Nice work in progress. Looks sweet, Very sweet!!!! love the advans....

Have been doing some stuff.

All valve's in the cylinder head were bend a little duo to the heat.

So bought an donor engine to use parts from. luckily all valve's from the donor block were straight.

I did not want cheap imitation valve's therefore the donor.

Cylinder head is again ready for action.

This cylinder head is again machined. Second time.

Old en new gasket. Both Group A TRD 3 layer steel gasket 0.6mm for the ep701 2E but diffrent.

Prepped the exhaust system to 2.5 inch. and flange usage.

Downpipe photo needs to be made.

Bought parts to rebuild the Cylinder block. Gaskets, O rings, bearings, oil filter, etc etc

.

First my cylinderwall looked like this. Nice looking mirror

Engine has run about 65.000 miles when i bought it....

I've run the engine to about 15.000 miles more. Less than 50 miles on NOS and this is the result i asume. Nos is pretty dry gas and got a lack of lubrication therefore it wear pretty quick, also it could be duo to a lean mixture. But 1 thing i've learned NOS usage is cool. But killing haha. I've used up to 20 litre in total.

So no more NOS..............oh well

I leave it only connected

Engine block

45 Degree cross honed at my local engine workshop ( never used my cheap ass tripod honing tool that i bought for 15 quid Didn't trust it.) Cylinder honing is to my knowledge not as simple as 1.2.3

The 45 degree cross honing is made for the oil to go in the scratches to form an layer of oil film voor de piston rings to lubricate. Thats why my piston rings turned out blue hard wear and to much heat.

Removed the ugly edges were the oil from the cylinder head drains back to the bottom.

Before

After

Made some extra oil squirters. ( 2E Engine got oem oil squirters to lubricate and cool the piston underneath and piston pen. Pretty good engine i thought. I made some sidewall squirting to cool and lubrication the wall on the sides better. The orifice i used is 0.040 ( 1 mm ) So it spray's nice and easy.

OEM Squirters

CUSTOM

Also i've raised the oil pressure because of that modification ( extra oil sprayers )

TRD Group A manual also state this action on raising the oil pressure this way.

Donor vs myown ( what i've learned is that changing oil regular DOES make an diffrence, the donor engine was much oil sludge up duo to No or less maintenance.

The dark one is the one from the donor engine.

For all others who also want to raise the oil pressure e.g external oil cooler/radiator, add an washer on top of the spring cap. Then use the circle clip to lock all the parts. I've used an 1.5mm thick washer.

REMEMBER if the spring is to tight or you don't like to warm the engine up properly ( low rpm shifting during cold start ).

Leave the spring pressure normal and don't touch it .... ( it's actually an pressure relief valve ) it opens if the oil pressure is to high ( mostly during cold start ) cold oil is always thick + high rpm = Damage. Having to much oil pressure can result in engine problems and/or loss of oil ( thru the oil seals and or o rings ) Use with caution..

Bought me some piston rings from hastings but the quality is very low. look like plastic rings. they had to be aftermarket lol

They have only a crappy layer of chrome for the first ring, but are all iron so im not going to use them. Very crappy shit vs stock/oem. which is STEEL with chrome lol.

Lightweight aluminium pulley 7cm made for an ford engine, the guy in the uk ( where i bought it from ) machined the hole size so it is capable to go on the denso alternator shaft.

The cv joint boot where on both side at its end.

Time to refurbish the drive shafts. Bought 2 polyurethane cv boots and blueprint cv boots.

And jar of Mos2 grease from kroon oil.

Cleaning all old grease out of the cv joint.

The cv joint at the wheels is left alone

This week im going to bring the Crank pulley, crankshaft, flywheel, pressure plate to the engine shop for adjustment.

Flywheel is going to get lighter. and all parts will be balanced to zero. So that there is no shit like this

Saved some money on balancing lol.

Wicked saw blade that flywheel.

How is the ground clearance with that side pipe ? I had one exiting before the gasoline tank but kissed almost every bump

Looks pretty good....

Do you still own the advans ?

P7 tha bomb

Oldskool

stu also loves square.

Heeeeey i see an sidepipe lol.

Haven't looked for it actually but saw it on the last photo haha, wicked!

P.S

The rod on cylinder number 1 has also been bend if you look closley.

BUT.

Don't forget i fired down almost 230 bhp onto an 1.3 N/A engine. If i werent lazy i't would have survived!

The ignition is MAX advanced. As with NOS it has te be turned back. "Retard"

New objective 250/300 bhp on paper with T4 on a 1.3 N/A!!!!!!!

"Had an appointment at the dyno on januari the 27 at 12:00"

There are diffrent parts to an 1990 to 1992 and 1993 to 1995 2E-E engine

Above new type. Below old type

Cleaned the donor piston and old cheap oil cooked to it.

Weight all donor pistons

So i am building an new 2E-E engine.

Donor valve's 12 pieces

and 4 donor pistons.

Also used old piston rings from the second ring sleeve, they are 3.10mm

The piston rings on the top side were 2.80 / 2,85.

Piston rings im using are 3.10mm on top sleeve and second sleeve. to achive more then 13 bar pressure.

Also im going to polish the intake tunnel on the head job.

And make the exhaust tunnel bigger

Custom exhaust manifold would be fitted. Including the T4 turbo.

And checking if the wastegate and actuator is working propely i will connect it only then to the throttle body.

Thank you morgey

Yes the pressure is maintaned by the heated element. ( copper windings arround the bottle )

There are 400 Watt power bottle blankets for NOS on the market but cost way to much.

The alternator then have to work very hard and will slow down the motor, i already added a 70mm lightweight pulley for the alternator so less load. I'm also seeking for lightweight bigger crank pulley

The pressure that needs to be used is 900 / 1000psi and then it's liquid.

Beyond this pressure it's gas and below also.

AN N/A 1.3 engine got a lot of problems duo to the lack off torque.

The lighter the drive train the better

Hahaha Dingo you're funny haha NOS rocks especially when the rpm rise like a jetfighter it growlssssss.

Yep the cross still needs to get welded.... asked it a year ago to my friend but... nothing happend yet

GOT pierced by a tube

But holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Few day's ago the engine got crippled.

At an 100 bhp NOS shot the engine talked to me back saying prrrr prrrr prrrrr...

i thought wtf... hmmmmm little detonation issue, Too lazy to retard the ignition, rules were clear on the holy NOS website.. LOL

Clutch pedal pressed.

Engine offline.

stopped to look onder the hood. Can't see anything.

I thought gotto go home.

Started the engine sounded like a impreza boxer engine and added with an little valve tik...

I thought LOL had to keep the rpm above the 2000 then it will be ok to drive with it. below no power.

At my house i checked the compression ratio . cyl 1 and 2 had 0 zero pressure. ( 0 BAR )

Cylinder 3 did got 7 bar and cylinder 4 had 8 bar pressure. All cyl must have 13 bar normally. ( stock 9.5 )

12 valve's were bend a little bit.

Okay toyota power!! still can make my way home. My 2 litre catch can was filled with oil after 10 min of driving back, ROFL

Will upload pics tomorrow.

Very very nice temperature's you got there.

So there is noway it could get to lets say about 160 degree... hihi.

How much pressure you're running with the new spring now ?

How much space do you have from road to wishbone ?

As you removed the lower brace im curious how the brace looks underneath

Stu how hot did the air temp become on full boost actually ?

and whats normal ?

I've heard numbers like 160 degree celcius ? is that correct ?

Hej mooi gedaan

Nice job lad.

Hey.

Very nice project,

But you're building an ep70 and turbo charge it. What engine will you use for this chassie ?

Also never thought that FIA had such tight regulation.

I think that KNAF regulations are easier.

Upgrade O-ring for the Distributor. Installed an viton O-ring 30mm x 4mm x 38mm instead of the NBR oem type size 31mm x 3.5mm x 37mm don't know why toyota uses an sloppy one. The viton variant is the perfect fit.

Cost a little effort to place the distributor back thru the hole. But it's a tight fit and won't leak for an decade or so

Above oem type. below Viton O-ring ( it fills the sleeve more wich is 5mm )

Made an new bracket for the nos bottle.

And double the heating power. Need to achive 60 bar in less then 30 min. Still haven't test it.

Got the regulator fixed.

I need arround 62 BAR = +- 900 PSI

The best range for the bottle pressure is between 900 and 1100 PSI

The movies made today ware approx 45 bar = 650 PSI So the jet size wont achive the designated BHP shot.

Did some measuring today

Cold bottle pressure is 430 PSI

After driving arround for 30 minutes. 653 PSI

Driving for 45 min 725 PSI

1 HOUR driving 797 PSI

I need a faster heating mode

Temperature today outside -1 degree celcius.

>http://youtu.be/tYNP0GUwisE

>http://youtu.be/w-MMSOoAWLU

Away goes the NOS :S :S :S

About to tune the regulator

Drilled the hole to 5mm. Taped M6 Thread added an Screw, removed the spring function..

NOS Nozzle 047 insert.

Appointment at the dyno made.

Movie with new nos nozzle coming right up.

Well little update and a list off the mods on the car.

OUTSIDE:

Color : Matte antraciet metallic/pearl

Custom polished RH wheels ET35 7J 15 inch 195/50/15 back, 195/45/15 front, weight: 13.5 Kilo each pretty darn heavy.

Tinted almost every window exept the windscreen.

Custom led strips in both headlights. And fixed the chrome layer.

US runninglights unit fixed corner lights lit up and blink when needed. Color white. Disabled the turn signals in the bumper.

Some xenon 35W units

Custom grill

Removed all keylocks on the car and wiper on the tailgate and water spraynozzle.

Relocated the numberplate from tailgate to beneath the bumper with led light.

Bumper in same color.

UNDER THE BODY!

Lowered the car a little, still oem springs and new oem shocks. Rear glanza spring/coil seat and springs.

Modified Whiteline rear swaybar.

Glanza rear disc brakes.

Goodridge ssteel braided brake lines.

Custom drill rig island bearings ( twisted beam )

Cusco panhard rod double spherical bearings. ( New custom panhard rod laying arround somewhere )

Stainless steel exhaust system 2 inch with custom muffler. ( 2.5 inch ) front needs to be replaced duo turbosetup.

Custom ssteel lower under brace.

Wideband sensor

Exhaust wrap

EP82 GTT Hubs + Wishbone

Celica GT 4x4 3sgte Front calipers + camry v6 brake adaptors.

Ferrodo ds2500 Race pads.

Toyota Prius Cross drilled front brake discs 25x255. 4 x 100

Major Caster / anti-lift upgrade and spherical bearings on the wishbone.

2 x TRD bushes ( front wishbone )

Rear axle 10mm wider, Front axle 22mm wider duo to spacer for the allignment on the prius brakediscs.

Reinforce the chassie ( welding )

UNDER THE HOOD

"Group A spec engine" 2E-E 1.3 12 Valve engine 1993 +-125.000 km

Head ported flowed and cleaned.

New seals

Oem valves

TRD Valve springs,

TRD Camshaft 280 degree rally type big valve lift.

TRD 0.6mm tripple layer steel headgasket.

TRD Clutch and Pressure plate

4EFTE oem Flywheel

Camry 2009 255cc Injectors

Magnecore 7.5mm red spark plug cables.

NGK 7EIX Irridium spark plugs

Camry brakemaster cylinder

15 BAR water injection system with 5 litre reservoir and 0.2 nozzle 008 + water cooler

Fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum controlled and with VSV activation only allows 2.9 bar at full throttle. Without vacuum 2.5 bar

Supra JDM fuel pump

10mm / 3/8 fuel line.

RAV 4 Gasoline filter.

Tripple core radiator.

Volvo fan and thermostat controller,

Custom automatic choke system.

Mocal oil plate with thermostat and oil cooler

Range rover V8 air filter box.

Cold air intake setup

Home made T-VIS system. 2 way

Peugeot 307 throttle body

Custom piggyback connected to the MAP sensor en alters the fuel supply.

Maximum ignition advanced.

Oil catch can 2 litre

Custom SSteel front strut brace

Cusco Camber plates with new bearings and polished plate

Exhaust manifold wrapped.

Heatshield

EP8 Coolant reservoir relocated

Batterie Relocated in the trunk

Windshield fluid reservoir Relocated rear interieur panel.

Grey PCV valve drilled out on top off the rocker cover

NOS Setup NX solenoid and NOS nozzle with .044 jet

Replaced toyota horn with an renault twin horn snake design

Refurbished Steering house and new rod to both ends and new rubber

INSIDE THE CAR:

EP82 Dashboard

EP82 GTT Sparco bezel

Plasma plates

MOMO steering wheel.

MOMO gear knob.

Aem wideband gauge

Cheap boost gauge ( greddy boost gauge underway )

Cheap oil pressure gauge

Cheap air fuel ratio meter

Oem seats

Digital water temperature gauge

Digital oil temperature gauge.

Aluminium Wiechers rollcage TYPE E/F 6 point

Logitech z-5500 multimedia surround sound system. Altered the inside on the active woofer Better wool

Car mp3 player unit with TF card holder

Batterie in de trunk

Washer fluid reservoir behind drivers chair.

Fast clips for the batterie

Tablet holder ( antitheft ) Still need to buy a tablet lol

Nos bottle 7.5KG + heating element

Power converter 12 to 220 Volt at 800 watts

BUT still no turbo on the car.......................... yet

Thursday the car will be professional alligned with laser. Front and rear.

Then making an appointment at the dyno. With and without NOS

Then adding turbo to the car.

When engine survive i will dyno again i hope.

Impressive stuff, so that is were fine tuning begins by looking at the log file right ?

I am still looking for an good ecu and some help to tune my engine with. But also little scared that i will blow the engine at some point.

End of the week i'll be getting a new NOS bottle and therefore new power out of a bottle . I think if i got bored on the .044 nozzle i will try the .047 nozzle

I also think that 200bhp on the crank is the maximum on stock internals from the 2E-E engine.

Next week im going to build the turbo and manifold and new exhaust system on the car. ( manifold will be done )

I want to experience the sound of pssssssssssst if the turbo spools good enough haha.

So little update.

Did go for a little bit of Rectangular so got some meat....

Manifold needs to get sandblasted tomorrow duo to a better flow and no carbage in the pipes

Bottle heater with thermostat! ( Im using the hot water from the engine as heater.

Where did all the NOS go haha. Wanted to make a movie with the new nozzle .044 but by the time i wanted to do that the bottle seems to be emty. It muste be arround 60 BAR or more

Yes your right the T3/T4 familie is very big haha.

Oem bottom from the blacktop is crappy haha. But you know that as well

What type of ZE bottom did you use ? gen 1 2 or 3 ? because there is a big diffrent between them.

Not the hardware.

The ecu itself. Most people say that haltech is`a little more reliable than the microtech.

I also need such an ecu. So do you have good experience on using the haltec ecu ?