*greg*

Can someone please photoshop the bonnet black and also white please. Cheers

I know ! About time is deserve some good luck with this bloody car! The list on the window is old but i have a new list in the kitchen on a white board just to depress me evertime i wake up and make a brew lol. Everything is on schedule apart from the scat rod which is floating around in postal system!

Yeah , been waiting on cash and parts for ages and they have all arrived except the rod from scat ! So got to build the engine along with loads of other bits an dpieces

Quick update! 30 days to go to round 1 at Rockingham ,so thought better get started on the list of jobs ! Fitted so far : Whiteline anti lift kit Whiteline rear adjustable ARB 244LPH fuel pump Civic aluminium rad and slimline fan Oil filter relocation and cooler ID-Workz fibreglass varis style bonnet

cheers guys !

Does anyone know what holes to line up on the standard camshafts as i marked them on removal and the marks have rubbed off over time? I have searched the forums and can find nothing! cheers

would still be interested to see what it looks like got one of idrees new cruise bonnets coming so will have to paint that anyway.

Can someone please photoshop my roof, bonnet and spoiler gloss black please??? Thanks in advance

yeah that was the back up plan !

I have got a second hand cylinder head that needs skimming, but it has been skimmed before but not very well! Does anyone know the maximum you can take off the head ? an overall minimum depth would be great. Thanks Greg

There is no direct link with boost and piston speed no. mean piston speed = (2)stroke length x engine speed. but the general stress path heavily affects the conrod thats all i am saying and if your going for big power then do it once and do it properly it will save money in the long run!

Standard road spec rods are manufactured to withstand generally 20m/s piston speed. ( Think the piston has to go up ,stop dead and then come back down, stop dead and then go up again etc). This causes a lot of stress. When you start turning the boost up and putting more pressure on the piston crown your increasing the speed of the pistons Meter/second up and down the cylinder bore and also the general combustion chamber temperature ( Ex gas temp close to 1100 deg c) if your upping the rev limit or moving the power curve further up the rev range then deffinetly use forged rods and fastners. Race application rods ( scat etc ) generally withstand 25 M/S MAX! The 1st failure point usually is not the rods themselves but the standard fastners in the big end, hense why people use forged rods along with ARP 2000 fastners( or similar brands )if you put too much stress on standard rods they will stretch and fail. So if your uping the boost and incresing the stresses on the engine and piston/rod setup then yes you deffinetly need forged rods and uprated fastners. Forged pistons are used due to the harder outer coating the forging process creates this is purely due to the higher temperatures created by more pressure/power. Hope this helps , and i am using scat rods and they seem fine matey

Does anyone know the thread size for the oil filter ? Cheers

Already got one cheers mate

i have thought about a baffled sump before , but it was the oil pressure regulator that had snapped off so the engine was running nothing near the required pressure hense why the cams went also. But because the wiring loom was in pieces the gauges werent wired up and the standard warning light didnt come on either.My fault in a way but shit happens.

Update: After having a major failure in the engine which was caused by no oil pressure, the head , cams , crank , 1 forged rod and all bearings are now scrap! So i am starting again! Pics below: Notice the heat marks ! And yes i know the caps on the wrong way round !

I have just noticed that there is no wire attached to my oil pressure switch which is very worrying. Car is off the road after cam failure maybe due to low oil pressure typical ! I cant find the piece of loom for it anywhere on my car ! Has anyone got a pic of the wiring attached to the switch?? Cheers Guys

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showth...ht=service+bolt

had a look and it looks lined up?

when i took cams out i didnt even think to look, so the gear is split in two and the service bolt aligns both sides up? I guess its spring loaded to keep a nice constant mesh with no noise? so fitting with no service bolt in could of made it align funny?? Ill have a look now and see what it looks like. cheers

no, what would that do?

have seen this before but cant really understand what he is on about?!

I have recently rebuilt my engine and used forged internals. After putting the engine back together and covering 800 miles it is still tappy. When its off boost and you tap the accelerator it makes a noise that sounds like a loose cam cap or similar . I have checked all the obvious things but nothing is loose and also tolerences! It is driving me crazy any ideas? Oh and it is still on a self learn map if this makes any differnece ?

Can anyone on here write a basic map to make the car more driveable so i can get it to london???? I have the hand held commander and it is a 96 EP91 Thanks in advance

New lightweight underdrive pulley!