gorganl2000

these standard boxes can take much more power

as said above , your synchro is probably on its way out

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Rear+brake+discs+and+pads+replacement

that may help with the rear set up

those numbers at the top of the block correspond to the different size pistons for the respective cylinder

the ones at the bottom of the block help with the identifying the correct bearings for the crank on the 4efte ( the crank will have numbers stamped on it as well to assist with this)

however, its best to have everything properly measured so you get the correct parts

at higher boost levels sometimes 0.5mm has been used to avoid spark blowout

you can try moving from 1.1mm to 0.5mm closing in 0.1mm increments until there is no spark blow out

if it works as its suppose to i think it can be very useful for datalogs even with the 1.3 sec delay

you can even use it to help adjust tune by comparing before and after datalogs to see what effect changing the parameters had---just you have to be cautious, but then again tuning is generally a cautious activity

i'd suggest still using some detcans to monitor knock real time and maybe reference ignition timing from the delay feed to identify reference points

plus if you run a piggyback, to see ignition, temps, etc can be very useful

toyota coolant---or suitable alternative,,,,,,,,just avoid the cheap ones

i used prestone (red), you can get it premixed or mix it yourself

i can't tell you which is best fpr

but i can tell that a GENUINE sard fpr works great-----------and i stress genuine

we've used rhdjapan--fast shipping and very reliable

bump

what i can tell you is that from my experience the stock ecu needs to have the o2 sensor connected or else the car will run very poorly (felt sluggish/hesitant and just not a smooth drive)---happened to me when the o2 wire connector was off accidentally

and seeing that the JAM ecu (and other Plug and play ecus) are basically modified stock ecus, then i suspect the same "crap" operation will happen if the o2 sensor is not connected. the stock ecu uses it for some of its functions as outlined above

i'm not sure, but try a diagnostic with it disconnected and see if a code shows up

pm sent

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/e37t-JDM-TOYOTA-EP91-STARLET-OEM-COMBINATION-SWITCH-WIPER-CONTROL-LIGHT-SWITCH-/321336858723

looking for the combination switch/stalk for the 1998 ep91 glanza V....switches/stalks are like in the old ebay link and pics above

thanks

for the sake of it maybe try a stock fpr and seen if that helps

or you may need to turn your fuel pressure down to stock level

genuine toyota head bolts are a real wonder and hard to call, some guys run 20/22psi on them with now problems with td04L/td05 sized turbos

know of 1 car that ran 28psi on a gt28

know of another running 30psi on a proper td05

yet some guys report to get head lift at those same boost levels

as shorty said, for safety maybe arp are the better bet, especially if you plan to trash it everyday at high boost

get it tuned for sure as the others have said

as for max boost, the usual on a td04L is around 1.4bar....but sometimes guys hit 1.6 bar for a short time (this tends to shorten the turbo's life)

it will most likely taper off in the high revs anyways to around 1.1 - 1.2 bar if you use a stock tdo4L

203-3801 i think is the part number for arp head bolts for 4e/5e

have you tested the other cylinders to see if spark is missing on those as well?

if its just one cylinder, then its most likely the wire, plug or cap ------and you said you changed those

check the connections to the fuel "level" mechanism/float/pump 1st

if not, then check to see if its stuck/broken, but you would need to remove it from the tank

i'd forget about the td06 idea unless its a dedicated drag car

i'm not from your end of the world, but maybe one of the breakers on here can get you a used one since you need it fast

else you may have to go to the dealers

how you checked the fan switch/sensor and connections?

the final choice of piggyback/standalone it dependent on each person, whatever they decide based on the requirements, costs, etc.

what i can say is that emu has proven to be a reliable piggyback

to get the most from any properly installed piggyback/standalone system, the user/tuner must know what they are about with regards to that specific system

so maybe ask whoever tuner you select "what system they prefer"

chatter normally associated with not using a BOV or using Mesh or a short intake to turbo

i'd strongly recommend you check the Map sensor and Tps setting

plug back in the o2 sensor if you have it disconnected, as the car will run like crap without it-----same goes for the knock sensor

are you using the stock ecu?---removing the stock o2 sensor will cause the stock ecu to run rich

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?2641-fault-code-31-amp-34

yeah, check your map sensor and both the electrical and vacuum hose connection to it

maybe try a friend's map sensor and see if it cures the problem

ah, a fellow bajan

last time i had a bad map sensor, the car refused to boost properly, would start missing/hesitating as soon as boost came on

did you try a diagnostic? code 34 i think it was

you can also check tps, knock sensor, o2 sensor

yeah, based on what you said, seems a bigger TB would not be useful to you

you can find other ways/mods to spend/invest your hard earned money

let's put it this way, my buddy (with a little help from me) followed some diagrams generic diagrams on the starlet sites to install and set the jumpers in the emu on his own car. Used a wideband and homemade electronic knock cans, did some emu datalogs and tuned the car slowly. its a completely stock engine with upgraded turbo and supporting mods. Now neither of us are professional tuners/technicians.

thus far,maybe 9 months now, the car is working fine, no issues with emu...it starts fine, idles fine, drives fine, runs fine

now being amateurs, you could say the chances of something going wrong would be rather high with this approach....but i'm happy to say everything is great still