gorganl2000

does your idle "hunt" when warm?

usually high idle is associated with a vacuum leak. recheck all those vacuum hoses to your TB, Power Steering rack, ICV, automatic choke, etc.

also, the idle screw itself carries an o-ring on it, you may want to remove it to see of its worn and leaking

isn't a tf035 smaller than a td04L? it may not be possible to get 250whp out of that size turbo

i can say that a Td04L on a 5e is a nice combination for everyday usable response/power. may get u around 200-225whp with a great torque curve

that 247whp was on shaved 5efhe pistons and stock rev limiter at 18/19 psi on a gt28rs

iirc it was a mix of pump and race gas to stop detonation as the local pump gas was very very low quality

there was a guy running 247whp on those 5efhe rods

based on some forums, jamaican guys run up to 300whp on them

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?93610-What-could-result-Knock-gt-retarded-timing-gt-high-EGT-!/page2&highlight=knock+cans

that tread on ttgt had a little discussion on knock cans and preferences

nothing like hearing it yourself though...the human ear is very sensitive

invest in a set of det cans to help your pic up knock. you can build the cheap "do it yourself" set

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html

http://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/another-electronic-det-can-example-61616/page2/

i combined those two to make a set...the stud ring makes it much more simple to install and secure

seems to work good enough for what it is

or even cheaper yet

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=1589

maybe around 175-200bhp,

really depends on what you want from your car, so many variables--- how your drive, where you drive, response preference, etc

very good and realistic figure for your set up. i'd say enjoy the car and i'd keep the zep for now, as it seems to be working fine with what you have

do you have an adjustable actuator?

when my glanza was stock, i used to get around 250/275 miles out of a full tank IF i kept off boost

from the time you start planting your foot down and hit higher boost, the mileage will noticeably drop

also check your map sensor and the connections

have you done a diagnostic?

let's see, i've ran a jam ecu on stock fpr and i've ran a jam ecu with a sard fpr set at stock pressure

both worked fine

just get your car checked out to make sure your set up is working safely, both fueling and ignition (no detonation)

just get it welded properly

i've seen it done a few times now without any issues

Theres no gains to be had unless you know exactly what your doing, power is made or lost at the cylinder head. For this reason is why modifying cylinder heads is an expense job!

I don't see the need to touch the cylinder head until 340bhp anyway.

i totally agree AdamB

proven time and time again

i'd say stay far away from billet mounts unless you are a serious racer and the car is strictly for competition and those areas re-enforced.

as with polishing your current set, that may take a little effort

i'm not sure if the structural integrity of the mount housing itself will be compromised-------guess it depends how much metal you remove while polishing

have you checked for vacuum leaks? lots of old hoses on these cars now so its possible one has backed off or has a small hole

try a diagnostic and see if anything shows up about the TPS

its best to adjust the idle screw when the car if fully hot

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?11545-need-clutch-info

take a read of that, it may help

some people run 4e marks, others run 5e marks, there has been a lot of discussion on the topic....so depending on who you ask the answer may vary

can you shed a little more light about your build?

the genuine gasket is quiet good...i've seen reasonable power go through it without any problems---up to 300whp

turbo kit sold.

still got the VF35 if anyone fancies it.

see your PM bean

not sure which tread you are using...so i replied in both

yep i need to sell the vf35 too. got that sitting all bagged up and the intercooler kit, all the electronics stuff, heaps of stuff let to sell lol. i got an s2k now so been enjoying that.

see your PM bean

check the accelerator cable to see if its "bent", hitting anything or breaking

also check to make sure its path to the TB is completely clear and that the spring on the throttle is applying the pressure its suppose to (should be snapping back into closed position pretty firmly when the cable is free or not in place)

yeah, the acis will drive up low and mid range when working

should be interesting to see it when fully working and mapped on the 4wd dyno

hey boss

hope all is well with you

i'd also recommend you dont sell the ep85...yours is a very good build and reliable

i know many who have regretted selling thiers a while after

however, if you have big plans like house/land, studies, etc, then its understandable if you must sell it

did you ever get the acis properly hooked up and a cross-over point found?

hi

very nice project...good figures and there's more to come it seems

have u checked your spark plug gaps?...maybe the spark is being blown out on high boost which is causing the misfire....

what spark plugs are your running and what plug gaps are they?

i'm trying to find out the stock fuel pressure of the 5efe or 5efhe