T-dog

When alarm installer fit alarms they normally run the immobiliser through the alarm main box so they cut the starter or fuel pump wires or both . So would have thought you will need to find out we’re they have cut and extended/ joined , because the alarm and immobiliser could not immobilise with them just spliced they need to back the circuit . Hope this helps . You any photos and I’ll can have a look for you ? Thanks  

I still come on everyday to check lol . Facebook is just full of idiots on there that wanna mug you off or tell you there mate can build you a forge build with 1000 bhp for £100 😂👍🏼

Got a black one in the shed , message me in the morning and I’ll send you some photos . Thanks Toby 

Would be wicked to see it now and what condition it’s in 👍🏼

You sure it the turbo ?  , could well be valve stem seals or piston rings on these engines . 

The best sounding exhaust you can buy for a ep91 and getting pretty rare now , Good luck with the sale doubt it will hang around long 👍🏼

The two sr I have had over the years both had full size speed line wheels in the boot 👍🏼

Great work . Keep it up 👌😀

Cobra good alarm and nice and easy to install 👍🏼

Very strange one . Could well be a issue with the dizzy unit itself then . As if it was just running fine now it won’t and you have no spark and all wiring is good . Have you 100% checked all the grounds and the wiring plugs are good ?  

The two nipples on the oem actuator are for the hi and low boost button . If you have this removed and loop hose going to the sensor on top of the abs pump . But I’m sure most leave them to atmosphere on that nipple  👍🏼

Has it just happened ? Or have you done anything to it lately ? . Check that the igniter is grounded good against the bulk head 👍🏼

No worries mate glad you know what it is . Now just to buy a cheap inverter and your off 👍🏼🙂

Could be a issue with the control box , but I've got them in my car and it’s just all plug and play and red to ignition and black to earth and make sure the fuse is ok . Have you connected up to power and checked that they dial faces are getting voltage pass the control box of that make sense 👍🏼

Yeah they help with the cars idle when the aircon is in use . No bother 👍🏼

And also get a non aircon grommet for the firewall and remove the evaporator from inside the heater box 

If you have removed the aircon , you can remove all of this stuff and just bung off the few pipes of the throttle body and then remove the charcoal canister and just vent the pipe to the floor . Toby 👍🏼 

4 hours ago, BMX-RIG said:

Not too bad when it should last another 20+ years lol

Haha that what I thought dude , Christmas present to the old girl 😂👌🏼

I just got a replacement from Toyota for mine at just over £200 . I tried the cheap option but had more trouble then it was worth lol so I just went genuine and was surprised by the price , thought it would have been lots more . Worth giving them a shout 👍🏼

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the alternator circuit and plug on a glanza ? Cheers in advance Toby 

Like this - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283632063283

The standard alloy pipe work will work from the cheap glanza kits on eBay . And then just get a straight bit of hose and bit of extra pipe to make it fit the ct9 top mount manifold as no kit is available with that setup of pipes . I think WEPR might be able to make you the longer pipe to fit the ct9 top mount 👍🏼

Are you putting the lock washer and split pin through it after tightening so It can’t undo ?