Toby@ToyTuning.com

Where is it, what are you up too you old dog?

Bugger, back to the dark side eh

Yeah sounds like the fixed the solenoid issue in the end, defo worth considering the spec II as well then also well priced and full of features. T

That's what I mean buddy your not wrong as you've physically seen it but dyno's vary so much and the results can be altered to make the customer feel great about the results otherwise they go away feeling like they have been had. It's pretty common knowledge in the dyno business that this is done, two of my very good friends are dyno operators you see. We got 200.9bhp and the next owner who bought the demo no2 got 232.5bhp, see what I mean, same car, same spec, similar conditions and 30hp more! I knew our operator and wanted the most accurate results possible. I can assure on an engine dyno in simulated conditions you would never see 200hp on average modified Starlet with stock CT9. Yes you could run crazy octane fuel and heaps of ignition advance which would give you some mad figures but in reality it's not going to happen, it's hardly the "norm" and doesn't set a good example for the rest of the field. All pub talk at the end of the day but interesting none the less! Hope you are well bud loving the drift beast, we should meet one day in the summer for some sideways antics in the KP! T

Dyno figures will differ across the board hugely so it's very hard to predict. I've heard some mad figures in my time, people running stock CT9's with 220hp The Japs never managed more than 182@ wheels on a hybrid CT9 to give you an indication and that was with a fully modified head and cams. To give you an idea we got 200.9 bhp @ fly using the following specs on our fast road demo no2 Starlet: Specifications: Engine - 4EFTE 1332cc, transverse, four cylinder, DOHC, 16-valve â?¢ 1.0 bar of boost, 200.7bhp, 192 lb/ft of torque and over 280bhp/tonne â?¢ Toy Tuning Fully Forged Engine, 7.9:1 CR â?¢ Weisco 74.5mm forged pistons with 10cc dish â?¢ Scat forged steel connecting rods with block â??notchedâ?? to suit â?¢ Fully balanced bottom end â?¢ Zep racing 1.2mm head gasket â?¢ Fully refurbished stock cylinder head â?¢ ORC lightweight flywheel â?¢ Toy Tuning mild steel tubular exhaust manifold â?¢ Toy Tuning hybrid CT9 turbocharger â?¢ Toy Tuning actuator â?¢ Toy Tuning Air Filter Relocation Kit â?¢ Blitz de-cat pipe â?¢ Custom made 2.5 inch front exit exhaust â?¢ Autobahn 88 front mounted intercooler â?¢ Custom made â??hot sideâ?? piping â?¢ Haste Engineering 3 core alloy radiator with 1.3 bar cap â?¢ Sard thermostat, silicone radiator hoses â?¢ Spal electric switch operated fan â?¢ Magnecor 8.5mm leads â?¢ NGK Iridium grade 8 spark plugs â?¢ Cusco oil catch tank â?¢ Sard magnetic oil filter and oil drain plug â?¢ Custom Cruise pink painted rocker cover â?¢ Toy Tuning reservoir pot covers â?¢ Sard rising rate fuel pressure regulator â?¢ Sard 330cc injectors â?¢ Greddy eManage Ultimate piggy back ECU â?¢ BeeR rev limit controller â?¢ Greddy Profec B boost controller â?¢ Greddy 3 bar map sensor â?¢ Ultra Turbo timer Transmission - ORC 309 twin plate clutch â?¢ ORC 309 lightweight flywheel â?¢ TRD short shift gear linkage â?¢ Rebuilt stock gearbox, stock ratios â?¢ Quaife ATB Suspension - â?¢ Cusco Zero 2 fully adjustable coilover suspension â?¢ Cusco Pillowball top mounts â?¢ Whiteline 22mm front anti roll bar with poly bushed drop links â?¢ Whiteline 20mm rear anti roll bar â?¢ Whiteline adjustable panhard rod â?¢ Toy Tuning anti lift and castor kit â?¢ Ultra Racing four point front lower arm bar â?¢ OEM front strut brace â?¢ Three point OEM rear strut brace â?¢ Toy Tuning polyurethane lower arm front and rear bushes â?¢ Toy Tuning polyurethane rear trailing arm bushes â?¢ Toy Tuning polyurethane Engine Mounts â?¢ Toy Tuning polyurethane suspension bushes Brakes - â?¢ Toy Tuning four pot brake kit â?¢ Comp before 4pot callipers and adaptor brackets â?¢ 280mm two piece slotted discs â?¢ Hawk racing pads â?¢ Toy Tuning stainless steel braided brake lines all round â?¢ Cusco brake master cylinder stopper â?¢ Stock rear callipers and disks â?¢ Toyota OEM Dot 5.1 Fluid Wheels / Tyres - â?¢ Rota Clubstar 7 x 15 inch Green painted alloys â?¢ 165/50/15 Toyo R888 stretched tyres â?¢ 35mm wider front and 40mm wider rear track using wheel spacers â?¢ Greddy extended titanium wheelnuts Exterior - â?? â?¢ Zep Racing â??Livesportsâ?? front and rear lips â?¢ Zep Racing â??Livesportsâ?? side skirts â?¢ Carbon Culture carbon fibre bonnet â?¢ Square light conversion on front end â?¢ TRD grille â?¢ Front number plate relocated to side, â?¢ Custom made lightweight wing mirrors â?¢ Tinted rear windows â?¢ Front down force diffuser Interior - â?¢ Stripped out with Cusco 7 point CDS rollcage â?¢ Cusco bolt on doorbars â?¢ Sparco circuit S driverâ??s seat â?¢ Sabelt 4 point harnesses â?¢ 300mm HKB steering wheel â?¢ Cruise pink gearknob, â?¢ Omori oil pressure, water temperature and boost gauges â?¢ Sard EGT gauge

The emanage units are good piggy back systems, used the Ultimate on our demo car no 2 (fast road Starlet). Well priced and fairty simple to map. Some of the chaps in Jam are running up to 300hp on the blue although at this level it's worth going for the Ultimate imo as it has more variables you can play with to ensure reliability and a more advanced state of tune. What spec are you planning on running and what will the car be used for? T

Did Greddy ever replace the solenoids on the B spec II? The original Profec without a screen had a huge chunky solenoid. They were harder to mount due to the reduced space in the engine bay so Greddy made the spec II which had a tiny solenoid, but, due to it's compactness it wasn't as reliable. We don't sell the Spec II anymore but interested to know if they cured this? Tobs

That looks ace buddy nice and neat job spot on. To add the AVCR is a very competent unit, full of features which won't always be used on a Starlet but well priced and they look grand. If your after something on a budget then consider they above or a used Greddy Profec B (the original one without a screen), these are basic, easy to use, can be installed in literally 10 mins and can be set up in 10 mins by yourself where as something like the AVCR needs to be done by a professional as they can be a little complicated. One thing I would advise is also purchasing an uprated actuator like our own ones or the HKS. The stock actuator can become week over time as the spring looses it's tensile strength, if it is worn then the EBC will never work to it's full potential. Boost which ever way you look at it is a mechanical process, things like EBC's and MBC's just aid the process. If the actuator is worn it won't be able to hold the boost as the wastegate will never be fully closed loosing vital pressure so the EBC won't have a hope in hell. Hope that helps, Toby

Our 200hp list, without manufacture names to be as impartial and unbiased as possible: This is what we recommend for a good 200hp setup: Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match: â?¢ Hybrid CT9 â?¢ Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold â?¢ Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap â?¢ Decat â?¢ Cat Back system 2.5inch The car is now expelling gases more efficiently. â?¢ Relocated Air Filter to front bumper â?¢ Reduce Intake length â?¢ Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track Car is now breathing more efficiently â?¢ Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers â?¢ Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material) â?¢ Uprated Thermostat â?¢ Rad Cap â?¢ Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days â?¢ Consider Oil Cooler WITH thermostat if planning on track days Car is now cooling more efficiently â?¢ New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades 7, â?¢ New HT leads â?¢ Inspect Dizzy/Cap/Rotor Ignition system now works â?¢ Uprated Fuel Pump â?¢ Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit â?¢ Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends on needs) â?¢ Rolling Road Session Car now fuelling adequately â?¢ Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss â?¢ Quickshift Kit â?¢ LSD if poss Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min: â?¢ Uprated Front Disks â?¢ Uprated Pads â?¢ New OEM Rear Pads â?¢ Braided Brake Lines â?¢ Cusco BMCS â?¢ Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill) You can now stop! â?¢ Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs â?¢ Front and Rear Strut Braces â?¢ Panhard Rod â?¢ Lower Arm Bar â?¢ Anitlift kit â?¢ Check and replace worn bushes â?¢ Good tires Power to ground greatly improved. Thatâ??s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch. T

Looks like around 40mm on the rear and 30mm on the front but they will be higher at the front to counteract the weight of people. Maybe someone with those springs can confirm as we don't sell them. T

We are just closed until we fulfill all back orders, with my accident and Christmas we got behind and after Christmas we started getting a huge amount of orders so coupled with the old orders we couldn't keep up with the rate they were coming in as there is only two of us now on the parts side. Fear not in around 1-2 weeks the website will re-open with a new lease of life, made some big changes for 2009 to stop any future problems we just never expected the business to grow so quickly and simply outstretched our means. T

He is the chap that builds all our forged engines and does all our mechanical work, I would show you the workshop page on the website but it's closed for anothe week. He is around 1.5 hours from you and it's a nice drive, used to live in Swansea for 3 years so remember the route well Let me know how you get on. T

Could just be a worn engine what is the mileage? Sound advice Ste top work.. T

Something like that When it snows I usually bring out the RWD KE70 corolla for some fun, still running on biscuit wheels! T

Not to far from Kevins workshop if you do need help. It's pretty easy to do, locate the clutch bleed nipple on the slave cylinder at the front of the gearbox. Connect a bleed tube and crack off the nipple. Get someone to pump the clutch until the fluid comes through and make sure all the air is out of the system if there is any. Keep topping up the clutch cylinder and make sure it doesn't runner dry which will allow more air in. Once down close the nipple and pump up the pedal. A voila clutch bled Let me know how you get on and we will go from there. If it's slipping at all then it's really time to get a new clutch as it sounds passed it's sell by date. T

As above nothing wrong with Proxeys used them for years. If you can stump up for the 888 semi slicks then the proxeys make a sensible choice although I personally run 888's all year round and a048r yok semi slicks in the summer. T

Hey Ben, You could have air in the system and it may need a simple bleed, you can also adjust the clutch point as well. Is the clutch slipping at all on boost, any judder? What clutch is it and where are you based? Thanks, Toby

There are a lot of variables with back pressure, it is generally true that with a turbo car you need to reduce it to aid performance but there is a limit where too little is too much. With NA car's its a different kettle of fish. I wrote a huge article on boost creep and back pressure on TGTT, read below if you want: "Boost Creep Issues? Then please read on .... In Brief: Boost creep - When you set a pre-set amount of boost (say 10psi max) you expect it boost to 10psi and stop right? Well this isn't always the case. A turbo will naturally boost 1-2 psi more than what you set it on initial spool (when you put your foot down) and will then slowly settle to your pre-set boost. In this example the boost is set at 10psi, when you first accelerate the turbo will boost to 11psi and will quickly settle back to 10spi through the rev range, this is common physics of any turbo charger. Boost creep in this example would mean you accelerate, the boost goes right up to your pre-set amount (10psi) and continues to boost more than you have set it. There is no set amount, some may creep to 14psi, some may creep to 24psi, it depends on many variables. This is why they call it boost creep, the boost is "creeping" past and beyond your pre-set limit. There are several causes and remedies but let's first understand why. Understanding: To make it easy I will use a glass of water as an example. Read the first sentence to understand, then read the second sentence where I have noted what part of the car I am referring too in brackets. Sentence 1: Imagine pouring water into a glass with a hole in the bottom, the water slowly drains away. Pending on the size of the hole you can poor more water in and it will still drain out the hole. Imagine pouring water into the glass really fast, you will get to a point where you are putting in more water than the hole can physically drain and the glass will slowly overflow even though there is a hole in the bottom, this is boost creep. Sentence 2: Imagine pouring water (air) into a glass (turbo) with a hole in the bottom (wastegate), the water slowly drains away. Pending on the size of the hole (wastegate) you can poor more water (air) in and it will still drain out the hole (wastegate). Imagine pouring water (air) into the glass (turbo) really fast, you will get to a point where you are putting in more water (air) than the hole (wastegate) can physically drain and the glass (turbo) will slowly overflow even though there is a hole in the bottom, this is boost creep. That should make it quite easy to see what is happening. In essence too much is coming in and not enough coming out. You can either enlarge the hole in the glass (port the wastegate), you can pour less water in (restrict the airflow) or you can chuck the glass away and get a 2 pint pitcher (New Turbo/Bigger Wastegate e.g. external) Turbos are simple in design, all they do is compress air. You have to imagine an engine as a big air pump, the more air you can get in (more oxygen) the better and faster it will be. A turbo just compresses the air molecules (oxygen) meaning you can squeeze even more air into the engine, simple yeah? In practice yes, but in real life there are lots of variables that can effect a turbo and it all needs to come together as well balanced equilibrium (that just means a perfect balance). The Stock Setup: Now lets see what can cause this frustrating uncontrollable boost. The stock CT9 (the stock turbocharger on a Starlet GT or Glanza) is quite small, hell it doesn't need to be very big as they are light cars! When Toyota designed it, they didn't make it with us in mind. They made it as good as it needed to be with the stock equipment supplied with the car from factory. Often people say that the CT9 is rubbish, or the stock intercooler is rubbish, this is not true, they are perfectly suitable for what the car was made for. Turbo's have wastegates, this is what opens and let's some of the boost out, if they didn't have wastegates the turbos would boost forever as there would be nothing to let the air out, they would boost continually until the turbo blew up (not literally but it's not good!) Now the stock wastegate can only do so much. In stock form they are 28mm in diameter, it's not very large but more than adequate for a standard Starlets boost pressure. If Toyota had wanted you to run 20psi then they would have designed it differently but this is not the case. Possible Causes: Then we come along and want to make the car faster, we make a few changes and suddenly the boost goes mad and it won't settle where you want it to. Here are a few examples of what we can do to mess this careful balance up: - Reducing back-pressure This can be in the form of an uprated exhaust manifold, decat (removing the stock catalytic converter) and a wider exhaust system. It could be just one, or it could be all three. When you reduce the back pressure this allows the turbine wheel in the turbo to spin faster as the gases are being exhausted quicker as there is less pressure resisting against it. This in turn means the compressor wheel is now spinning faster and sucking more air in. Confused? This is how a turbo works. If you look at a turbo, where the air goes in is the compressor, the part that compresses the air (where you stick an air filter/induction kit on). If you took the stock "16V EFI Pipe" off (inlet) and looked in the turbo you would see the compressor blades. At the other end is the turbine wheel, there connected and one piece. The turbine wheel is spun by the wasted exhaust gases that come out of the engine. Just like on a normal car you have an exhaust system, except on ours the gases are put to use and directed towards the turbine which is what spins it. This spins the compressor which sucks the air in through the inlet. So you can see what is happening, we are removing the catalytic converter (restriction) which increases the rate in which the exhaust gases flow, we are increasing the diameter of the exhaust throughout with an uprated exhaust system (say 2.5inch) which again increases the flow. You could do one, or the other or both. Same goes with the manifold, if you use an uprated unit that is less restrictive the gases are simply flowing faster, this is causing the turbine wheel to spin faster which obviously spins the compressor faster. Now let's go back to the wastegate. The wheel in the turbo is now spinning faster than normal, more air is coming in at a faster rate. But shit, what about the wastegate? We now have more air coming in but the wastegate is still only 28mm in diameter so how will it get rid of the excess air? Answer is it won't, we now have too much going in and not enough coming out, this is boost creep. - Air Filter / Turbo Inlet We have just learned how reducing the back pressure in the exhaust can cause uncontrollable boost. The air filter is a similar problem. The stock inlet on the CT9 is pretty long. Not only is it long but there are lots of bends. The stock airbox is also quite restrictive. No it's not rubbish, it's fine for what it was made for but we are looking to increase performance not run a stock car! Now most people will want to get rid of the stock airbox and use a better open ended filter/induction kit (Apexi, HKS etc etc). Not only does this allow more air in but it sounds better as you can hear the turbo "sucking". Most will put an uprated air filter at the end of the inlet track. You are still using the stock inlet so there are still plenty of restrictions. Ideally you don't want an open filter like this in the engine bay as it only sucks hot air in (this is why the airbox is enclosed with a cold air feed), these filters are meant to receive cold air as they are open but this is a story for another day! The next step up is relocating the filter behind the headlight, again you are still using most of the stock inlet tract and there are a few restrictions. This doesn't mean you won't get boost creep but there is still a less chance, not that you should be gambling for this. Next up from this is removing the stock inlet altogether and relocating the filter to the front bumper. This is great for cold air but now you have removed all the restrictions from the inlet. This means the turbo can now suck in ample air quickly. You have reduced the length of the intake, the air has to travel a shorter distance and there are very few bends to slow it down therefore it moves at a faster rate. The problem is the wastegate is still the same size so again the turbo is taking in more than it can get rid of, as we all know by now this is boost creep. Let's make the wastegate bigger you say? Before we jump the gun let's see what the pros and cons are now we know why it's happening. Remedies / Solutions - Port The Wastegate This simply means making the wastegate bigger, porting it out. Now this seems the simplest cure, but there is a problem. Anyone who is experienced with the stock CT9 knows that wastegate cracking is a common problem. There is a huge amount of heat around the wastegate, the turbos are small, this means that they heat up quickly or disperse heat badly. They are fine in stock form but when you run more boost they can crack very easily. Even running stock boost can crack it over time, for e.g. consistent high speeds were the turbo is working hard, like on a motorway if you floored it for an hour at top speed (not that you should be doing this). The constant spinning of the turbo means it soon gets very hot, turbos generally operate between 1000 degrees C to 1500 degrees C so it's a lot of stress for a small turbo. This means that the stock wastegate is an inherent weak point, yes you can port it but you have to be careful as if it's already badly cracked then your not going to help it. If there are only minor "hairline" cracks then it should be okay. Don't take this as gospel truth but a little porting should be okay as long as you get a professional to do it and you don't go mad. I can't say 0.1mm will do it, I can't say 2mm will do it, each car is different and will need to be tested, just make sure you get the metal filings out as this won't help either. So now all we are doing is increasing the diameter of the stock wastegate hole thus allowing a greater volume of air to be expelled due to the increased amount of air coming in. - External Wastegate The wastegate we have been referring too is in an internal one which is stock on a normal Starlet and normal CT9. An external wastegate is simply that, a wastegate which is external and not internal. Common sizes used on the Starlet are 38mm, as you can see 10mm bigger than the stock wastegate. I won't explain the benefits or the drawbacks, all you need to know is the wastegate is a lot bigger so you can simply expel more gases. The only way to use one on a CT9 is by welding the stock wastegate shut and installing one on the manifold, it's a complicated process and needs to be done well to work well. All we are doing is replacing the small wastegate with a bigger one. - Restrict the Inlet / Exhaust As we know by now, relocating the filter and reducing back pressure can cause boost creep as there is simply too much coming in and not enough coming out. We can restrict the inlet somehow, either by covering some of the filter (preventing some of the air coming in) or by using more bends, more bends will slow the rate of air. We can also create a restriction in the exhaust, either by using a smaller diameter system or by physically putting a restriction in there, like a bung with a smaller hole restricting the amount of air flow which in turn will slow the turbine wheel down on the turbo. You could do both, you could do one, there are not definite fixes each application is different so you will need to test regardless, no one car is the same as they say. - HKS Actuator or Similar The actuator is what controls the INTERNAL wastegate on the CT9, obviously if you have an external one you can disregard this. The normal CT9 actuator can become week over time, purely as it's just a spring opening and closing the wastegate. Like a normal spring, if you pull it backwards and forwards enough the spring will loose tension. There is a common myth that a HKS actuator will solely cure boost creep, it wont. Due to the stronger spring inside it, it will open and close the wastegate quicker than an old worn spring in the stock actuator. This will help to bring on the boost faster but the wastegate is still the same size. It may give it a better chance purely as the wastegate will open quicker but if the hole is physically too small then it won't stand a chance. It may be on the limit and could cure the problem for the occasional Starleteer who is only suffering from a small amount of creep but 9/10 it won't. If you really think about it a worn or weak actuator will mean loss of boost as it can't keep the wastegate shut under boosting conditions therefore the gases are flowing straight out of the turbo and therefore loosing boost. Whilst they can sometimes aid the process they are not a remedy alone, in this case the aforementioned scenarios will need to be addressed. Conclusion There we have it, whilst each car is different there are many variables to take into consideration that we haven't discussed. Temperature for example, the colder the air the denser it is, this means more oxygen which in turn means greater compression of air (what a turbo does), again this will effect the the problem and is why a lot of people are fine in the summer, yet when winter dawns (for us UK lads) the problem suddenly arises. The same can be said on the motorway as there is more cold air available when compared with driving around the city streets. There is no definitive size of exhaust, inlet tract, air filter, wastegate, each application is different. There is no surefire fix, each method will need to be evaluated to determine which method is best. This isn't just a Starlet problem, it's common on all turbo cars. Starlets just happen to have small turbos and Toyota didn't expect us to run 5-10 psi over what they used from the factory. This isn't made to scare you but to teach you why it happens in simplified terms. Great gains can be had from removing the restrictions, there are huge performance benefits you just need to be careful when selecting your parts. A particular manifold won't prevent it, a particular exhaust or air filter won't prevent it, each application is different. Some may experience it, some may not. At least if it happens you can read this and re-evaluate the situation to resolve it! We are only a PM or email away if you are still unsure and are always prepared to help whatever the case may be. Best Regards, Toby@ TT" We've also added a few more points later in the post but that should give you a good understanding. T

As above sounds ignition related, check your spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm and coil lead. Remove the spark plugs and check the condition, if unsure post some pictures up. With the bonnet scoop it can sometimes allow water to get into the spark plugs wells but if it's NA then this won't be the case. It's still worth checking to see if there is any corrosion when looking down the wells. Remove the distributor cap and make sure all the contacts are clean with no white residue. Make sure the rotor arm spins freely and that all the leads are securely attached both spark plug end, distributor end and coil pack end. As ste91 mentioned make sure the NA temp sensor is connected otherwise it will run rich as hell sapping performance and ruining fuel economy. T

Hey mate, Yeah not a problem, if you wait until the site goes back on line you can order them via there and select front lines only. As i've discussed with Mikey ideally you want some for the rear drums, Zep Racing do some but they are not cheap. If you can find 5 people then we could get them made for you as permanant stock. Thanks, Toby

Good man, our TT hybrids are only warranted to 1.1 bar for this exact reason but if I'm honest I've tested our own to 1.5 bar just for a laugh but only as we have a plentiful supply. For anyone else 1 bar should be more than enough, you should be able to get away with a little more ignition advance as well. Let us know how you get on am sure you will love the difference, a lot of potential for such a small turbo. T

As above 1.2 bar should be about the max, any more and the unit will generate a lot more heat as the CT9 is still inherently small. While it will physically compress more air it will also heat the air more so it counteracts the raised boost pressure. Obviosuly the cooler the intake temps the better the car will go. I've also just sent you a message regarding your tech questions and the piggy back ECU's so take a look when you get a chance. Best of luck, Toby

Hey mate, Once we re-open would be more than happy to honour a set of these at the GB price of £55.00 delivered (mainland UK). The UK spec disks are slightly smaller so cheaper, get in contact when the site re-opens and we will get a package together for you least we can do If you already have it sorted then no worries at all. All the best for the weekend, Toby

Hey Jack, As long as it's a clutch for a 4efte it doesn't matter if its for a 82 or 91 they are the same thing. Hope that helps. Toby