Toby@ToyTuning.com

Where is it, what are you up too you old dog?

Bugger, back to the dark side eh

Yeah sounds like the fixed the solenoid issue in the end, defo worth considering the spec II as well then also well priced and full of features. T

That's what I mean buddy your not wrong as you've physically seen it but dyno's vary so much and the results can be altered to make the customer feel great about the results otherwise they go away feeling like they have been had. It's pretty common knowledge in the dyno business that this is done, two of my very good friends are dyno operators you see. We got 200.9bhp and the next owner who bought the demo no2 got 232.5bhp, see what I mean, same car, same spec, similar conditions and 30hp more! I knew our operator and wanted the most accurate results possible. I can assure on an engine dyno i

Dyno figures will differ across the board hugely so it's very hard to predict. I've heard some mad figures in my time, people running stock CT9's with 220hp The Japs never managed more than 182@ wheels on a hybrid CT9 to give you an indication and that was with a fully modified head and cams. To give you an idea we got 200.9 bhp @ fly using the following specs on our fast road demo no2 Starlet: Specifications: Engine - 4EFTE 1332cc, transverse, four cylinder, DOHC, 16-valve â?¢ 1.0 bar of boost, 200.7bhp, 192 lb/ft of torque and over 280bhp/tonne â?¢ Toy Tunin

The emanage units are good piggy back systems, used the Ultimate on our demo car no 2 (fast road Starlet). Well priced and fairty simple to map. Some of the chaps in Jam are running up to 300hp on the blue although at this level it's worth going for the Ultimate imo as it has more variables you can play with to ensure reliability and a more advanced state of tune. What spec are you planning on running and what will the car be used for? T

Did Greddy ever replace the solenoids on the B spec II? The original Profec without a screen had a huge chunky solenoid. They were harder to mount due to the reduced space in the engine bay so Greddy made the spec II which had a tiny solenoid, but, due to it's compactness it wasn't as reliable. We don't sell the Spec II anymore but interested to know if they cured this? Tobs

That looks ace buddy nice and neat job spot on. To add the AVCR is a very competent unit, full of features which won't always be used on a Starlet but well priced and they look grand. If your after something on a budget then consider they above or a used Greddy Profec B (the original one without a screen), these are basic, easy to use, can be installed in literally 10 mins and can be set up in 10 mins by yourself where as something like the AVCR needs to be done by a professional as they can be a little complicated. One thing I would advise is also purchasing an uprated actuator like our own

Our 200hp list, without manufacture names to be as impartial and unbiased as possible: This is what we recommend for a good 200hp setup: Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match: â?¢ Hybrid CT9 â?¢ Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold â?¢ Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap â?¢ Decat â?¢ Cat Back system 2.5inch The car is now expelling gases more efficiently. â?¢ Relocated Air Filter to front bumper â?¢ Reduce Intake length â?¢ Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track Car i

Looks like around 40mm on the rear and 30mm on the front but they will be higher at the front to counteract the weight of people. Maybe someone with those springs can confirm as we don't sell them. T

We are just closed until we fulfill all back orders, with my accident and Christmas we got behind and after Christmas we started getting a huge amount of orders so coupled with the old orders we couldn't keep up with the rate they were coming in as there is only two of us now on the parts side. Fear not in around 1-2 weeks the website will re-open with a new lease of life, made some big changes for 2009 to stop any future problems we just never expected the business to grow so quickly and simply outstretched our means. T

He is the chap that builds all our forged engines and does all our mechanical work, I would show you the workshop page on the website but it's closed for anothe week. He is around 1.5 hours from you and it's a nice drive, used to live in Swansea for 3 years so remember the route well Let me know how you get on. T

Could just be a worn engine what is the mileage? Sound advice Ste top work.. T

Something like that When it snows I usually bring out the RWD KE70 corolla for some fun, still running on biscuit wheels! T

Not to far from Kevins workshop if you do need help. It's pretty easy to do, locate the clutch bleed nipple on the slave cylinder at the front of the gearbox. Connect a bleed tube and crack off the nipple. Get someone to pump the clutch until the fluid comes through and make sure all the air is out of the system if there is any. Keep topping up the clutch cylinder and make sure it doesn't runner dry which will allow more air in. Once down close the nipple and pump up the pedal. A voila clutch bled Let me know how you get on and we will go from there. If it's slipping at all then it's really

As above nothing wrong with Proxeys used them for years. If you can stump up for the 888 semi slicks then the proxeys make a sensible choice although I personally run 888's all year round and a048r yok semi slicks in the summer. T

Hey Ben, You could have air in the system and it may need a simple bleed, you can also adjust the clutch point as well. Is the clutch slipping at all on boost, any judder? What clutch is it and where are you based? Thanks, Toby

There are a lot of variables with back pressure, it is generally true that with a turbo car you need to reduce it to aid performance but there is a limit where too little is too much. With NA car's its a different kettle of fish. I wrote a huge article on boost creep and back pressure on TGTT, read below if you want: "Boost Creep Issues? Then please read on .... In Brief: Boost creep - When you set a pre-set amount of boost (say 10psi max) you expect it boost to 10psi and stop right? Well this isn't always the case. A turbo will naturally boost 1-2 psi more than what you set it on initial

As above sounds ignition related, check your spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm and coil lead. Remove the spark plugs and check the condition, if unsure post some pictures up. With the bonnet scoop it can sometimes allow water to get into the spark plugs wells but if it's NA then this won't be the case. It's still worth checking to see if there is any corrosion when looking down the wells. Remove the distributor cap and make sure all the contacts are clean with no white residue. Make sure the rotor arm spins freely and that all the leads are securely attached both spark plug end

Hey mate, Yeah not a problem, if you wait until the site goes back on line you can order them via there and select front lines only. As i've discussed with Mikey ideally you want some for the rear drums, Zep Racing do some but they are not cheap. If you can find 5 people then we could get them made for you as permanant stock. Thanks, Toby

Good man, our TT hybrids are only warranted to 1.1 bar for this exact reason but if I'm honest I've tested our own to 1.5 bar just for a laugh but only as we have a plentiful supply. For anyone else 1 bar should be more than enough, you should be able to get away with a little more ignition advance as well. Let us know how you get on am sure you will love the difference, a lot of potential for such a small turbo. T

As above 1.2 bar should be about the max, any more and the unit will generate a lot more heat as the CT9 is still inherently small. While it will physically compress more air it will also heat the air more so it counteracts the raised boost pressure. Obviosuly the cooler the intake temps the better the car will go. I've also just sent you a message regarding your tech questions and the piggy back ECU's so take a look when you get a chance. Best of luck, Toby

Hey mate, Once we re-open would be more than happy to honour a set of these at the GB price of £55.00 delivered (mainland UK). The UK spec disks are slightly smaller so cheaper, get in contact when the site re-opens and we will get a package together for you least we can do If you already have it sorted then no worries at all. All the best for the weekend, Toby

Hey Jack, As long as it's a clutch for a 4efte it doesn't matter if its for a 82 or 91 they are the same thing. Hope that helps. Toby