Toby@ToyTuning.com

Hey mate, In all honesty standard rear disks are more than sufficient for the 82 and 91, they have a minimal rear bias of 15%. As mentioned some good pads and braided lines are all that are needed. We run the Zep 4pot kit up front with the grooved r32 disks, Sard Type C pads front and rear, standard disks on the back with braided lines all round and dot 5.1 fluid. We also run the Cusco BMCS and Nightpager BMC, stopping power is excellent. This is with a 297@ wheels 82 and it's more than sufficient for our needs with near enough 0 fade on long circuit stints. Kind Regards, Toby

If you go down the list, select the one 8 up from the bottom titled: "Watch drivers try to beat the bollards", highly amusing and there's a UK spec EP91 na in there.. T

If you want a quick fix a 50p is a direct fit as well as a 2p piece if your on a budget. Cheers T

In all honesty it's quite important to have the rear in perfect alignment with the rest of the car. Yes you can make do and live with it but if your after handling perfection the panhard rod is really essential. All the kit's come with uprated bushes which is another plus point and they are much thicker than the hollow originals. I couldn't have a Starlet without one. Once your in the realms of suspension/chassis modification you may as well do it right from the beginning. Once you have most the chassis essentials you can have the camber, castor, toe, steer ahead, thrust angle and corner weights adjusted to suit your driving style, like mine on the ye old hunter alignment system: Hunter Alignment Cheers T

All depend's on the condition of the engine really. I run 18 psi with stock head gasket, have run 25psi but wouldn't advise this. In general you can run around 200@ wheels on stock internals with a good tune as stated. Like anything it's all dependant on the original condition. I've rebuilt my engine with forged pistons, everything else is stock/refreshed and running 202@wheels with 230 ft/lb of torque, using HKS pfc f-con for management.. Cheers oh and u2u sent spuddy T

Yeah it won't effect the engine. A stock starlet flutters on low boost anyway so running a few more psi isn't really going to make much difference. Yes it will reduce the life but the parameters are so small it will barely make a difference, we're talking day's rather than year's of life.. Here is a video of mine, 202@ wheels, around 235@ fly and 230 ft/lb torque, basically double the original ;) http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...6729&q=ep82 Cheers T

Hi guy's, Can someone post up the post code for us so we can work out some rough direction's. Sound's like it will be a good day out. Does anyone know what CRX's will be there and with what mod's? The only problem i've heard is with the surface, can anybody shed some light on this. I have semi slicks but I don't know if there worth using as the surface may not be suitable. The last thing I need is less traction! I guees I'll have to wait and see for my self! ;) Cheers T

Maybe get some smaller wheels and loose the two exhausts, all that extra weight tut tut. Will make such a difference.. Tobs

I would imagine thats lee on his td04 but may be wrong

Hey mate, THe Blitz Kits are non group buy and available as single orders for £595 so if anyone needs one in the near future then give me a shout. I also have many other goods available so check out the store when you get a chance, Cheers Tobs Toby's Store

Someone posted similar questions on the following link, there are pictures of both systems, the weprm on my old car and petbeemer one on geeuk's. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/viewthread.ph...d=2966#pid38840

And go for a wepr or petbeemer kit, Blitz and HKS fmic's are extremely expensive, and for what you need are not really needed. A blitz fmic and exhaust cost more new than my 94 GT with lsd lol!!! Both the wepr and petbeemer kits are around £300 all in, and will probably actually do a better job than the blitz/hks with ct9 as are smaller, which is what you need for a ct9, td04 etc. You don't want a massive one.. Tobs

Having an open style filter (blitz ss dustbin, apexi, hks etc) in the engine bay does nothing but loose you performance guys. You much better using the standard airbox with a good panel filter like k & n. This is the same for turbo and na. Inlet temps will be much higher with a filter sitting in the bay, will be subject to heat soak and will give you flat spots in the rev range. Yeah they sound nice but loose you ponies. Putting a "cold air feed" is useless, the filter is designed like that for cold air, hence its open and not incased to protect it from heat, and sitting in the corner of an engine bay will mean one thing only, cold feed or not, heat!! The blitz is the worst as its HHUUGGEEE, doesn't have particularly good filtration properties and its s/s so it gets hot! Fine if its relocated where its cold but its so big this is usually impossible in the smaller cars. The problem with the na is that to relocate a filter from the throttle body, you have to actually increase the inlet length, so although your now getting cold air, it will take longer to get to the throttle body, so your nearlly cancelling out your good work! So in my opinion best to just use the airbox with a panel filter, this will give you the best performace for the least ££££ I did a 16.1 in my 4efe SR, and then I converted to 4efte and did a 14.2 ;) Turbo is a similar problem, I have persueded many owners that what they are doing is pointless, they have changed back to panel and what a difference. Check out the posts on gtturbo.com. With the 4efte, its simpler to relocate the filter, as the turbo is at the front, so you can quite literally relocate the filter straight off the turbo to the front of the car with a 90 degree bit of silicone. The problem with this is that the w/gate design on the ct9 can't handle the new amount of cold air, and the speed in which it is being forced due to the reduced inlet lengths (turbo spools quicker). This can cause boost creep, I experienced this by testing differnt setups. With a stock gt exhaust system, I relocated filter and boost was uncontrollable, I was just careful in testing. The only way of stopping it is by balancing the inlet and exhaust gases (restrictor in exhaust), portig the w/gate (which can lead to premature cracking), welding the w/gate shut and using a external w/gate (almost pointless due to cost implacations ) or a new turbo lol! Anyway excuse the essay, its my day off he he! Just my 2 c Tobs

Yeah i have got a cinq as well!! My run around, swansea munches cars, lots of hills and salty air! Saving for an ae86 as well. I know there expensive and there are better drift cars out there but I love them, so old skool. I drove one for the first time a year ago and have never looked back since! Just need to get some more cash together! Cheers for the interst guys. How are your car's coming a long. See you soon, t

Have a 94 Starbo GT Turb......... work in progress :angry:

yeah is wank... Stainless steel mesh has no way near the filtration capabilities of a cotton or foam filter. Looks like a stainless steel dustbin.. Apexi is good if you have to spend the cash.. t

Yeah i do know what you mean. I did have a blitz sus which i sold but i didn't pay much. There not very good in my op.. The apexi one is good/popular if you wanna stick with Jap!

Hi guys listen to weejohn and scutch, they know what there on about. Putting an air filter anywhere in the egine bay, even behind a head light is pointless, you will loose power. Your better off keeping the standard air box and using a k&n panel filter, honestly. As john said, an induction kit/filter is designed for cool air, putting an oversized filter in the bay will loose you power, and give you a nice big flatspot. In my eye's theres no point in relocating the filter in the bumper when using the 4efe as the inlet has to be so long to get there. My filter was where it was as i was running a 4efte/turbo, therefore i relocated the filter staright off the turbo, what a difference. Also, dont pay loads of money for a filter, blitz, hks there all wank. You can get the same quality and function for a 1/4 of the price. Its just a filter for god sake, when will people learn. These companies are laughing. YOU ARE PAYING FOR A NAME! I had a custom green cotton filter made as i wanted a specific size to fit, cost me £40. Heres a better pic, minus the heat shield....

Bare in mind this relates to aus law but you can get an idea of what is involved. Im selling everything needed for an engine swap including ready ecu/loom if anyone is interested. So you want to turbo your starlet? Good on you This thread is a general guide to what needs to be done, what you can cut corners, and how much you can expect to pay. It's very easy to see the "$1300" price tag for the basic turbo kit and assume that's all you are going to have to spend. Unfortunately this is not the case. You have 2 options. 1: 4efte transplant from ep82 GT or glanza V 2: 4efet (turbo your 4efe stocko engine) Option 1 should give you 100kW at the fly Option 2 should give you appx 135kW at the fly First of all, differences / similarities between the turbo import engine and the stocko Aus engine: Block is the same Crank is the same Cams are very similar, 1mm difference Connecting rods almost if not identical Fuel pump identical No extra oil squirters Compression ratio from 9.6 - 8.2 (Pistons slightly larger to make this) 4efte gearbox stronger 4efte clutch slightly stronger 4efte oil sump has oil return from turbo 4efte drive shafts thicker 4efte supsension slightly different That being said, there are 4efe's that have been turbo charged and been running powerfully happy at 15psi for many km's OPTION 1 Positives with transplant: Bolt in fit Fairly cheap Should get some funky white Glanza V dials Should be able to sell some parts for money if not needed Should only be one - two days labour to drop everything Goes fast Negatives with transplant: The engine could be in bad condition, it has happened in the past Water pump / timing belt / fuel / oil filters / oil should be replaced Transport of the half cut Needs EPA tests and engineering to register Expected Costs: Half cuts range from $1500-$3500 $500 exhaust (cat, catback, muffler, fitting) $40 Oil $80 Spark plugs (good ones) $80 Fuel Filter $7 Oil Filter $65 Timing belt $150 Water pump $1000 labour (maybe cheaper if import is GlanzaV) Free: EPA test $120-$500 Engineers Certificate Overall budget of transplant: DIY: $3500-$4500 Pro: $4500-$5500 OPTION 2 Positives: Will go crazy fast, much more power than stock CT9 4efte engine Engine no. remains the same (no engineers cert / EPA test required) Some items upgraded would have to be upgraded in transplant engine if more power was desired anyhow (such as intercooler, clutch etc) Kit available with much success Running higher compression will give better off boost performance Negatives: Cost Gearbox has to be treated with more respect Brakes aren't as great as import half cut Many things are required to happen to do this upgrade Expected Costs: $300 2nd hand turbo $3160 Comprehensive turbo kit (including ecu, manifold, lines, air filter, fuel regulator) $1100 Turbo back exhaust (including dump, flex, cat, muffler, fitting) $1275 Water / air intercooler (including piping, hoses, clamps etc) $430 New clutch to hold the power $300 Tune $40 Turbo happy oil $150 Injectors (such as 4agze) Pro Installation: $650 remove / install old / new turbo setup $150 install water / air cooler $250 clutch Overall budget of 4efet DIY: $6750 Pro: $7750 What corners you can cut: Load preset on ECU by Dale, -$300 tune Cheap 2nd hand intercooler + mild steel piping, -$600 Use stock clutch (will slip after 6psi), -$430 Cheapest budget cutting corners DIY: $5450 The difference in price is quite substantial, but so is the power output After the conversion / turbo: Further upgrades you can look at: Even larger injectors Fuel pump Boost controllers Limited slip differential Engine internals More engineers cert's ... does it end? choose wisely and enjoy

Im a newbie!!!!!! wicked!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HELLO EVERYBODY, how you all doing!!!!!!! Great news now the site is back up, keep it up guys!!! Oh and im selling a turbo conversion, have a look in the "for sale". Speak soon TOBS ;)