paul w

So when do you wanna go kaylee...i've got a free flight to france to use....wanna come

Just below fuelcut every car is different so you will have to experiment to find it for your car.

Tbh mate i wouldn't waste time or money trying to make your N/A faster with remaps and piggyback gear, it's no sports car to begin with you ain't gonna see massive improvements on a 1.3 anyway 10-20 maybe 30bhp if you are lucky. You will still be raped by insurance co's save the cash and make it look good then swap it all onto a turbo when you can afford one

Use the garage You will regret it if you try doing it yourself! Most probably from a hospital bed! There will be some who say tie a rope around it etc but for your own sake get it done by a pro for a few quid

£800 =A damned good holiday for me too!! and a set of coilovers

What are you worrying about??? That is the oily crap from handling the mani burning off the mani

The actuator will solve the problem as it can be adjusted to just below fuelcut, when the car is turned on the gauge should show vaccuum then as the revs increase it will show boost.

Take it for a drive and get it hot, a short motorway run will clear the crap off the bolts/mani area, if it still does it after it's got hot then somethings not on right.

Did you fit new gaskets?? Did you use any oil/grease on the bolts/nuts as that will smoke a bit till it burns off, did you tighten the nuts properly the ones at the rear of the turbo are a complete arse to get tight.

I'm not a fan of bodykits but i do like the doobie kit on a GT

This the 1.8T?? Best of luck if it is.....you'll probably need it electrics are a fuckin nightmare on those at that age, coilpacks, MAF sensors etc don't run an induction kit if you want to avoid replacing them....£200 a pop they are!! I woulda stuck with the Glanza with the mortgage, it woulda been alot more reliable tbh.

Forget the FCD too they are shite unless set up by someone who knows the crack with them....not many people do

Piece of piss if you have a socket and spanner set, some coolant, new gaskets and a bit of patience as the nuts at the back of the turbo are a bastard to get at!! There is a guide somewhere i believe. Basicly rad drain the rad, remove top mount/up pipe for front mount, remove rad, remove cat/decat+heat shields if you have em then all thats left is the turbo so oil and coolant lines off and turbo-mani nuts. Refit is just reverse of above. Will take a few hours first time as nuts will be solidly seized in place normally. Penetrating fluid the night before will help as will a breaker bar.

You will find it a lot easier to remove the rad, cat and turbo as the nuts at the back of the turbo are a twat to get at! If you try and cut corners you will only end up getting pissed off and it will take longer by the way forget the SS mani it will only crack again, save some cash for a mild mani then fit that instead

N/A scoob.....you will struggle to shift that when you want rid of it which is probably why he wants a swap with the better car.

I'm fairly sure these are the same unit, compare the part numbers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-LUCIDA-ESTIMA...A1%7C240%3A1318 http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22570

I'm on commission I use em because they are always on the shelves, no need to order one if the motor factors ain't got one in stock. 4 year warrenty helps too

Halfords for me too, same as a UK starlet too

With all due respect mate you got as far as the tech section... if you had bothered to look about half an inch down you would have found the HOW TO section here have a look http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=11 It may appear harsh but when every glanza NOOB ( note not nob as you seem to think in your pm ) asks the same question about derestricting boost in gears 1 & 2 it gets a bit boring. The help sections are there to aid in answering these silly questions that pop up nearly every week If you have any other things to ask then the search function can prove usef

Stop being bloody lazy and search, every damned Glanza noob asks the same question!!!!! Look it wasn't that hard was it http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=21

WTF are you smoking mate???????? I used to do pest control in a number of lil chefs and i would never entertain eating anything from one!!! Low pay and foreign workers means shite hygiene :harhar: But hey don't let me put you off

Do yourself a favour and get a mild steel mani, you will only end up buying one in the future when the autobahn shite cracks.

No offence taken mate, the reason i asked in my first post how it smelled was to find out if it was burning oil ( smelly) or water/coolant (sweet) Which would narrow it down quite a bit :harhar: There are many "forum mechanics" who repeat the same shit everytime theres a "smokey" car, it often is the oil seals when people fit decats or new exhausts. If the seals have gone you will normally only get smoke off boost/on idle. It will normally be light blue. FYI http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/turbo/faults.htm

Why do people automaticaly assume it's the fookin turbo seals?? Smoke.......must be the turbo...errr NO. I'm not having a go by the way If it was the seals it would stink like buggery which it doesn't so it aint the turbo

Oil is usually blue smoke and stinks, A tiny bit of oil will smoke like buggery though, water is white and smells sweet but could also be blocked PCV valve. Going by what you've already said then the head has warped after you cooked the engine.