lukEp

Glanza mate, original engine loom on 4efe is one plug and the 4efe dash loom is one plug.

Original Glanza engine loom is 2 plug and one plug dash loom. So now you should have 2 plugs from your engine loom (Glanza) and one plug that doesn't fit in the ecu from the dash loom (4EFE).

I bought a new right size plug and pins from a guy on eBay (advert now gone) and chopped the old plug off and put the right plug on. 

I just replaced the plug with the right one so everything on the dash was standard 

Bits of leaf, feather, dust yeah. Things your blower drags in to the system. 

Ever turned your fan on full and it's spat loads of bits out the vents? 

That pipe is a water drain for the A/C my Glanza has one but no need for the SR to have one as it's never had A/C

I have a 98 UK spec SR which I've turbo'd which had a pollen filter and a 98 imported Factory Glanza V with a pollen filter. 

Both of mine are 98 spec as well so looks like it's the facelift only. 

Sold

Mains bearing size. Big end size are on the rods( can just see a 2 on your photo) and piston number stamped on the crown is bore size. 

If the engine is out have the block decked and head skimmed. The block tends to warp more than the head on these cars. Also oem gasket is just fine as said. 

Well my glanza has one as well and there is 2 filters inside the box not one. Mine looks like a dead cat. 20years of never being changed. 

Well messing with my SR and there is a 3 x button clips on the bottom of the heater box so I pulled them out and a flap dropped out with a filter in it. First I've seen one... is it just UK spec or SR or have they all got one?

Red with a white trace 

Green with a black trace

Wires coming from Drivers door through The "A" pillar behind the kick panel at accelerator pedal. Square white plug. IIRC small red and green wire they could possibly have a trace on them. I'll check soon. If you supply a neg to the wire it will lock or unlock depending on which wire. 

Well it sounds like the leads are breaking down. Its usually when boost pressure is there as air is a good insulator...  The more air in the cylinders the more resistance. The spark will always find the easiest way to ground so if the leads are breaking down they only show up when in boost to begin with. Just check the leads for damage and maybe in cap for moisture, even in the spark plug tubes for moisture. Also check the ignition amp is ground and the ground is clean if that's corroded then it might cause the same symptoms. 

Did you replace the King lead or just the 4 x plug leads?

What was you running before the jam ecu? 1bar RRFPR + FCD or was you just running stock boost?

Provisionally Sold. 

......

This is the cheapest I could find one anywhere

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132259943882

You would have to modified the carrier to bring the caliper in closer. 

That rear bench is 96spec and front seats/door cards are 98spec. Good progress shame if the arm rest has been binned as there hard to get now. 

I've got a full set fitted to my car. The king lead is slightly longer as well so helps when you have FMIC piping there. 

Found a set that fit

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162867622865

21 minutes ago, SKINY said:

How do you tell the difference between the 4cm and the 6cm TF035 ? I've one sat here waiting