Carl.

engine specs? to adjust boost u need an adjustable actuator, the actuator is located on the turbo and is a small cylinder shape with an arm sticking out of it with is connected to a lever controling the opening of the wastegate. if yours has a threaded arm that can be adjusted simply disconnect it from the lever and screw it inwards to increase boost. if you have the standard actuator i recommend getting an adjustable one as their crap at holding boost and could be why your only boosting .5

yes, i would

i know bud but id prefer to have the proper stud because it was so easy to remove and if it were a normal stud it would have taken forever to get the turbo off the car. i might grind an hex into the end of a normal stud if i cant get a proper one

the studs that are on the oil feed/return what kind of stud are they? i cant find anything like them on the internet. they are just normal looking mate studs except they have a star/torx key thing on the end so that is can be put in and removed easily. surely somewhere sell them,just cant think of a name for them

my life is ruined lol.... nah i had a corsa c 1.8 sri and it wo or8 i suppose but corsa's are common as fuck and thats why ive never liked them. only reason i had one was because i couldnt insure the glanza i had at the time so had to sell n look for something fairly cheap to insure but with decent power. hence the corsa, 125bhp, 0-60 in 8 seconds flat but round corners it might aswell have been a boat.

well thats abit weird then because mines 7800 / 7900 just a touch off 8000rpm & if u let it bounce of limiter it bounces up to 8000rpm its got standard ecu by the way

as above, what is standard rev limit on a glanza?

plugs? my gf's car had wrong spark plugs in when she bought it and it lost power at 4500rpm and woudnt go above. but ran fine until 4500rpm

pablo francisco http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPBvFXf9Q2U

shouldnt imagine so possibly an increase if anything

ive heard of straight through middle sections but dont think ive ever seen no back box.. would probably be stupidly loud; the type that people turn round n go... "gay" lol

oh dear

yeah its fine. mine has 2 small hairline cracks. as do many others

firefox !!

thats because its phils lol arrh beat me to it lol

ohh. mines seems to go like &£^*($" !!!!! once it gets to 4k, just sounds like a tractor and i cant see where its leaking from. (got toyota gaskets on by the way) its actually spiking in 3rd engine light pops on then dropping back down to 0.8 but then creeping to 0.9bar in 4th and hits cut.

exhaust air filter gutted cat mani hks actuator im using toyota gaskets now, covered them in loctite copper gasket aswell just to be safe. but obviously didnt work lol with a gutted cat is it normal to hear a like lack of back pressure noise after you let off revs. kinda like a farting noise lol because ive always assoiciated that noise as blowing. also it sounds really tappty when driving - like a tractor so is that deffently blowing because i cant even see where from

Heavy engineering CNC machinist

p.s im getting boost creep even though ive ported wastegate which is making me hit fuel cut in 4th. ive got actuator set at .8 bar and it takes forever to hit boost still (above 4k) would it work if i adjusted actuator to boost more, which makes turbo spool faster. & then get a manual boost controller and set that to 0.8 bar?

quick update on this thread. had chance to take mani back off this weekend just gone, found no cracks what so ever in head, and there was no black exhaust gas marks except for pretty much perfect circles around each port.. so no signs of leakage also the cheap ass gasket was in lovely condition. mani to turbo gasket was blown though had a good look at mani for cracks etc and initially found non then just as i was going t put it down a flash of light through the tinyest crack ever caught my eye. id orginally spotted this tiny crack when i first gt the mani but from what i could see looked like

Happy Birthday zo!

is the small brass/copper pipe reducer thing needed in vaccuum pipes? ive got it in one of pipes but couldnt understand why it was needed

will do mate cheers

also it even said on the listing "3mm thick not 1.3" which is the reason why i checked it because it sounded dodgy

i made the misstake of gettin a cheap one of ebay that was supposed to have 3mm thick runners thinking it should be ok if its 3mm. once i got it i checked thickness with a micrometer and it was 1.3mm not 3mm. got straight on tinternet nd got a refund. they agreed to refund me straight away without question as if they knew that theyd sent me the thin monkey metal shit and was hoping i wouldnt check.