Idrees

I was going to ask the same as above! I'll like it now.

You'll need to remove a few things to get access to it. From the top of my head: Drivers side engine mount Crank pulley Possibly rear gearbox mount to drop the engine low enough to remove the pulley Cambelt covers and cambelt (don't reuse the old belt) You'll have easy access to the seal which is located on the oil pump. Don't forget to use grease on the new seal. Are you sure it's the crank seal leaking? I'd recommended thoroughly checking the sump is sealed fully and also check that oil isn't seeping from the cam cover seal down to the bottom of the engine.

Yeah, light blue. Awesome colour.

That's very impressive, is it now the highest powered Glanza in the UK? What's it like for traction? I can imagine it spinning up through third gear!

1) Is it worth having the head ported/polished as I've heard a few horror stories about it? If you have a good job done then it would be a good idea to help spool up 2) I'm presuming the torque settings on all the bolts are going to be the same as standard? Would they still be the same with ARP bolts tho? ARP bolts have different torque settings. The bolts have the spec sheets included so you know what to torque them up to.

We have them brand new at awesome prices, 15% off RRP! I'll drop you a PM. Regards Idrees ID-Workz

PM'd

Cheers for your input guys. If it was me I would cut my losses and keep the customer happy, that's part of running a business and I've experienced losses myself. I told the guys I'd rather not fall out with them over this as I use them very frequently for other parts. They refurbish and prime 99% of panels that I have moulded as part of my business. They charge me top dollar too i.e. £120 just to prep and prime a Starlet bonnet but they do a good job on that so I don't mind paying it. I thought they'd rather not lose my custom as I'm a regular however I'm obviously very wrong! I wasn't aware of this motor trade standards Shorty so I'll definitely research that now.

1) I will be having the crank micro polished but will I need to have it balanced with the forged rods and pistons? ( are they lighter then standard) It's best to have the full bottom end balanced together. Crank, pistons, rods, flywheel, clutch, crank pulley. Basically everything that attached to the crank. 2) will I need to have the shells matched to the crank or is it a simple pop them in and job done? Ask the machine shop to measure the crank journals while they have the engine. They will advise what size bearings of require. 3) is it worth replacing valves and springs whilst I'm there? A good chemical clean of the valves and springs will do the trick nicely. Of course the valve seals should be replaced (included with full engine gasket set). 4) what piston size is best? Looking to get the block skimmed and reboard any way. Standard size is 74mm, 74.5mm is the most common choice with forged pistons. Of course you could go for 75mm however if the block ever gets scored (heaven forbid) then you'd need to replace the block. If you're using 74.5mm then you could just have it rebored for 75mm pistons. Regards Idrees ID-Workz

Hi guys I have a bit of a dilemma so I thought I would share it on here to see what you guys think. I gave one of my cars in to a body shop to have the following work done: Respray front bumper Paint and fit a new wing Respray rear door and quarter panel I dropped the car off earlier this week and got a call this morning to 'have a look at the car'. I popped over and they told me the colour is wrong through no fault of their own. This car has previously had a full respray in a slightly darker colour than the original colour (that I wasn't fully aware of). These guys took the paint code from the chassis, ordered the paint in and painted it. They noticed the colour was wrong after removing the masking. The original colour is black with a hint of blue, and the car is actually a bit darker (doesn't have as much blue in the paint). Now when you look at the car you can see that the parts they have painted are a lot more blue than my car! So now these guys are demanding me to pay which I've refused as I don't see why I should. I gave them a car, asked them to paint it and the colours not right. These guys noticed the car has been previously been painted but they assumed it had been painted to the same colour, surely it's not my fault that they assumed this and surely they should have checked the paint before painting these 4 panels? Their excuse for this was because it's a fairly new car (06 reg) so they thought it was right to assume it had been painted the factory colour. If I had done this paint job for someone I'd be told to f*** off if I asked for payment! I asked them to repaint it but they said the paint would need the paint to fully harden which takes about 3 weeks before they touched it again (understandable) but they're not going to paint it for free, they'll charge me full whack if I take it back. Another thing is the rear quarter has a slight graze on it, when looking carefully I can still see two very small dents so they obviously haven't repaired it properly before painting it!! This is the first time I've actually used a body shop to ever have my car painted and this is the simple reason why, I just don't trust anyone with it. I've usually done any paint work on my cars myself but I no longer have the time to do so. The funny thing is these guys are professionals and are no back street garage. The initial price was £375 and after a bit of arguing they said I could pay £325 but that's still way too much for a job I'm not happy with. I said I'll leave the car there and get 'advice' before deciding what to do but made it clear that I'm not paying them anything at this point. I will be phoning trading standards for advice tomorrow. Has anyone been in a similar situation, if so what have you done? Or any of you guys who work in body work, what wold you do if you did this paint for a client? Cheers Idrees

Stop making excuses for your EP3 friend

Send me a picture of the turbo and we'll get something sorted mate. Regards Idrees ID-Workz

Bump

Blue are 8mm El-Sports, Red are 8.5mm KV85 Competition leads. We have both new on the shelf. Regards Idrees ID-Workz

Standard or rising rate? Cheers Idrees ID-Workz

We have the valve and seal brand new in stock (OEM Toyota) Could also supply the hose brand new or used.

Any picture of the bottle itself? Is it a spray bottle or do you need to a power washer and lance etc?

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/index.php?showtopic=57561#entry737447

Powerflex rear gearbox mount and the other two standard?

I have that too.

£75 for late spec fogs in good condition is a bargain.

Welcome along mate, EF looks sweet ;)

Belts are in stock here, I'm working over the weekend if you want to pop over or I can post them out? I can supply you new bolts too. I still have your CV boots here too.

You'll also need an EP82 oil pickup to use the EP82 sump.

Yeah I can post them no problem. PM me and we'll take it from there.