StuDoc 72

Ive already cut into the lighting circuit when i done my indiglos shaun so its all good i know the exact wire im after lol. The thing im not sure about is the blue and purple wire coming from the oil temp guage. Are these both for a sensor or is one of them for a sensor and 1 for a dimmer also. I keep meaning to check myself over the battery but i forget so do any of you know?

^^^^^ If you read my 1st comment it explains exactly what this this drawing shows you to do although in a far less creative way. I dont understand where the confusion comes from. Nice drawing Ryan ;)

That really does sound like an engine mount Jamie have you done them all and made sure they are all on tight? Also the gearbox 1? What about your top strut mounts those are put under stress during braking and acceleration. I know the feeling though knockas are the worst ever i had a loose engine mount when i bought mine and took me a while so find where the noise was coming from.

Nah i just mean a video on how to check all your suspension n steering for play. Its mainly just a matter of trying to move things that shudnt move. This video should give you a rough idea from about 5 min onwards. Let me know how you get on bud.

If your pry bar is long stick it over the top of the wishbone and under the chassis leg and push down the way checking for movement. Ill try n find a guide or a vid on youtube for checking them so you can get a better idea its hard to explain lol.

Never noticed youd mentioned coilovers. And the rubber on the ball joint is just to keep the grease in there. What you want to be doing is jacking the front end up and grabbing the sides of the wheel and move it left and right feeling for any play then try up and down. You can check the ball joint for play by sticking a pry bar or sumthing in there and seeing if there is any movement. Also check your steering rack is actually bolted to the chassis properly it might have been off at some point in its life time and has come a little loose in its mounts.

Fitted indiglo dials at the weekend and since then i have noticed at ignition my airbag light is not illuminating any more. Its not the bulb as i changed that over with a working 1 to try it. What puzzles me is the light is there to indicate a fault in the airbag system so if its not coming on at all i imagine maybe an earth has come off somenwhere or a fuse is blown? I changed my speedo over from kph to mph while i was doing this so that has been in and out. Does anyone know if there is earths for the airbag system at the bulkhead in the engine bay? Or what fuses to check and where they are located as i cant seem to find them? I know its not exactly a big deal but it is safety afterall and im a bit OCD and like to know everything is working perfectly with the car as thats kinda what ive been going for with it. Cheers

Have you jacked it up and got some one to wobble the wheel while you look in behind to see where the play is coming from? Checked your ball joints? Springs? Top mounts? Get yourself a pry bar and get the wheel off give everything a good shake pull and pry lol you should find it that way.

Trust me buddy thats the way to do it. Years as a mechanic thats ive done a billion of those lol. and as for the rattle get urself plenty of tape and use that to make things a tighter fit ;)

LMAO cmon boys Right what you do is get a star screw driver and the tiniest plain screwdriver you can find. Put the plain in the gap between the screw and the collar as if your going to pry it out then gently ofcourse then use the star just to turn the screw while gently prying it out. Once you have it unscrewed use the plain to pop the whole thing off the plastic. Peace of piss ;)

Aye mate black till it lights up. Just need a live ignition feed just dont know what will be best for it i dont want wires all over the place i want to keep it as tiday as possible and so that i can remove them without much fuss im quite fussy when it comes to electrics seen too many disasters wiring wise. As for the vacuum pipe u need a T section and can cut into the top hose off you DV/BOV and use that or take it from the MAP sensor. I found this it should help you. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?81-boost-gauge-fitting

Have to agree with Socks here mate in my time spent as a mechanic French cars are the avoid at all costs lol. Enjoy anyway have you sold the starlet?

It doesnt have proximity sensors. Just when the sensitivity is turned up then a truck or a car with a loud exhaust can set it off. Ofcourse the sensitivity can be turned down which im sure could prevent this. Apart from that great alarm.

As above knackered tyre or wheel bud. Even a tyre on a wheel that is not balanced wouldnt cause serious wobble unless the wheel is buckled also. Mine was really bad for this. Got new alloys straight out the wrapper what a difference. If you have them spun on a wheel balancer you can easily spot the offender. If its only 1 or 2 of the wheels get them all balanced and stick the buckled ones on the back until you have money for new wheels.

Right boys got a few bits at the weekend. Got an HKS actuator and a boost gauge and oil temp gauge. 1st of all is the actuator do-able while the turbo is still on the car cant be bothered with it turning into a mssive job. 2ndly the wiring. Boost gauge has vacuum pipe and 3 wires red black orange. red n black i assume are live and earth. Is orange maybe a remote for a dimmer or sumthing? What vacuum pipe do i break into for the gauge and where do i get the wee splitters that i plug the pipe into? 3rdly the oil temp sensor has 4 wires. Red black blue purple again live earth and 2 that go to the sensor? which i assume i needto buy seperatly and also a sandwhich plate to put it into? Whos gna tell me the missing parts of the puzzle lol.

Haha you bad man dont tease me haha. Sound bud no worries.

u get that from some breaking or what?

Anyone interested in a swap for a Blitz Nur Spec R. I want something quieter you may want something louder lol. Cheers

If you havent greased the pads and they were tight going in the could easily jam. Also make sure the slides on the caliper move freely this could be causing 1 pad to stick on and the burning smell. The juddering could be down to your disc being warped from the heat of them jamming on if thats the case you will need new discs. Dont worry bout the shims just get yourself some copper grease or brake paste on there.

Paul any of your de-cats for a CT9?

Aw well hes just gona have to fork out then lol.

I meant more about cheap ones off ebay rather than ones from idworkz would have imagined those would be of a good quality. Anyway good luck with fitting it bud.

Mate hes on the Skyline OC but hes been starting the the thread so i dont know how good he has been at describing it. We tried the AFM on it others options are coilpacks and some sort of CAS sensor which to me looks like a camshaft position sensor but it looks like you can rotate it on its mounts. Others said it could be over fuelling which im assumming is due to that sensor. Some people have said ECUs aswell would sort it they honestly was like 5 different causes i think you can get MINES ECUs for them. Gettin to the point now its just gettin irritating had it 6 months and never experienced it in full flight yet. See the same symptom happened to me in the starlet 1 cold night after i put the exhaust on it but my engine management light came on and when u told me about boost creep n the fuel cut it made me think thats whats wrong with it!

Dont want to tread on toes here but you might be better off buying the gaskets from toyota. Sometimes in the case of gaskets you get what you pay for and they just break up under the intense heat from the cat. Also correct me if im wrong but is there not already studs on the cat? or is it bolts? If it is go to your local industrial supplies and get your bolts to fit the holes and some nice washers n spring washers to keep them tight will cost you a couple quid at most.

Buy halfords professional tools i think they are called halfords advanced now. Good if your on a budget and cant afford snap on but you get the same life time guaruntee. Chewing screws and bolts are just down to the wrong approach or wrong tool always check star screws are either philips or pozidrive invest in a can of WD40 along with your hammer and molies will be the best tools you own.