mech5107

Yeap they are direct fit and their flow pattern is so good that you can go really lean on a standalone ecu during cruising and idling that can achieve millage numbers like newer car.

Yeap they are direct fit and their flow pattern is so good that you can go really lean on a standalone ecu during cruising and idling that can achieve millage numbers like newer car.

The thread is tapered so no copper washer is needed. Also no serious tightening is needed. Just put some Teflon tape on the threads and snug it up. Even aluminum should have hold...

I use 185/60/14 falken 912. Seems to have soft sidewalls so response is not the best. Previously I had some Yokohama DNA gp. The best non semi slick I had.

Bridgestone turanza or something are shit, toyo cf1 are OK but soft, yoko cdrive no good value for money.

R888 are super, but too much noise and lower milage.

There is not such thing as average fuel pressure. Actually if there was it would be less than 3 bar.

At idle, with stock pressure regulator, with vacuum line connected is ~2.4 bar. On boost should go to 3bar + your boost level.

So your pressure is too high (4.5bar on frp) or it reads wrong. Your gauge is wrong for sure, as the injectors can't hold 8 bar...

Just to be safe, one goes to vaccum one goes to atmospheric air

As I wrote previously, one pipe to a nipple after the tb, so to the plenum and the other before the tb, so either in your piping or could let it in the open air.

No, the throttle shaft fitment is different.

Put one before the throttle body and one after.

If you don't, the when on idle you turn the wheel, the rpms will drop significantly.

I use AMSoil Dominator 20-50. Tried gastrol gtx, eneos 5-40, previously. Our motors are old and have some millage, so i prefer some thick oil, especially with summer temp.

It's TRD mechanical for sure!

Not sure if was mentioned already but where you got the blue box?

What are those numbers?

Sorry, small typo... fixed!

Is there anything for the ep71s? I see a number of members now run p7 starlets.

There is an actual change in the feeling, but depends on the price.

I made mine myself on a lathe, out of scrap aluminum pieces. Worth it.

You can put in the 4k and use bike carbs. Would sound unreal and have decent power.

Also you could look for a 5k and swap it latter...

Specs are:

4efte/4efe/5efe

Intake opening: 2 DEG BTDC
Intake Closing: 42 DEG ABTC
Exhaust Opening: 38 DEG BBDC
Exhaust Closing: 2 DEG ABDC
Intake Lift: 7.2mm
Exhaust Lift: 7.0mm
Intake Duration: 2+180+42= 224 DEG
Exhaust Duration: 2+180+38= 220 DEG

5efhe

Intake opening: 4 DEG BTDC
Intake Closing: 56 DEG ABTC
Exhaust Opening: 46 DEG BBDC
Exhaust Closing: 2 DEG ABDC
Intake Lift: 8.0mm
Exhaust Lift: 7.3mm
Intake Duration: 4+180+56= 240 DEG
Exhaust Duration: 2+180+46= 228 DEG

4efe, 4efte, 5efe cams are the same...

5efhe only is upgraded

Nope... The engine mounts are the least of you problems.

You will need ae86 gearbox, tunnel modification, shifter hole in the tunnel needs to move back, propably need custom drive shaft also.

Nice! I prefer the old school look of black racing though...

Also EPs shouldn't be too low. The geometry get's quickly disrupted and handling gets worse...

Re-tapped the calipers? Is it really possible? I'm a bit afraid to do so...

Is there any flex on the bracket? Is it stiff enough? I'm planning to do the same, that's why i ask.

Also did you got a brake line kit for the starlet? how much?

Is it a flat bracket with some spacers between the bracket and the knuckle?

How thick is the bracket?

Any more photos of the adaptor and the attachment to the knuckle?