mech5107
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Posts posted by mech5107
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Stock dizzy sensors is more than enough to go full sequential injection and 4 separate coil on plugs.
You just can't do it with the stock ecu, as it has only one ignition channel. You need a stand alone or a separate ignition system like the ford edis. But again in this case you would need another crank trigger and the stock ecu will give an ignition related error, as there will be no ignition feedback signal.
So either stock ecu and ignition, or standalone and whatever.
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resistor on the map sensor to up the fueling
Why everyone thinks that more fuel means more power?
You will need a piggyback ecu or stand alone, to do proper tuning on a n/a!
Good idea is to convert to gt/glanza engine harness and use a apexi PFC.
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I purchased the lower "donut" seals just few days ago from my local dealership. 3 euro each...
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It's due to the stock lamda sensor not getting up to temp after the restart. If you drive more gases are produced so the sensor gets up to temp.
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Hi mate and welcome!
In Greece there is teamep-789...
http://www.team-ep789.gr/teamforum/index.php
Check it!
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Gtr just needs a little nut/washer spacer setup. wouldnt be hard to work out if you had it infront of you.
Phil
Thanks, looks like the tps most nissan of the era have... Should be easy to find one in the scrap yard
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What is the screw for? Where did you got the kit?
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I use a funnel with a clear hose attached. So I just put the end in the fill hole and fill it
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The under seat tray will mount on any ep70 seat? I have the S model "bucket" style seats...
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Using and tuning for 99+ octane is not wise.
What of you get a bad fuel batch?
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I have tried even around 20 degrees at 1.1bar ct12 without detonation. But can't say it had any difference from say 10 degrees.
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2.4bar is stock. 3 bar without the vaccum line.
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Maybe clogged or something. Get all the injectors ultra sonic tested and cleaned
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The wax thing opens an extra air way. That's why you idle at 1600ish rpm.
The coolant sensor is used to make the correction on fueling till it gets to 70 something. Also intake temp is also used to add more fuel when it is below 35ish celcious.
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More advance than that of peak torque is not necessarily meaning detonation. Depending on engine, some can go 10 and more degrees after the peak power point without det. Previous gen 911 is a typical example.
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Thats because they are rising rate. if you put your standard fpr back on it would run better and probably make more power. The ecu is perfectly capable of fueling a ct9 up to fuel cut.
As i will advise everyone, always get your fueling checked when you make such a change.
Both stock and sard give exactly the same result.
I think that also the stock one is rising rate.
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Leanish mixtures do the best power. It depends on chamber design. For the 4efte around 11.8 gives the best power. Newer VW TSI engines go for leaner than 13 afr.
Stock ecu, ct9 at 0.9bar will go up to 10 AFR. So there is no need to increase fuel pressure at all.
RR frps are for special cases or for bling. Sad but true.
(I run my sard rrfrp at 2.2bar idle with vacuum on and still hitting 10.5 at wot after 5k rpm.)
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Yaris pump is good, cheap, and comes with it's own ecu to modulate power assist.
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Why don't you add the correct brace to the current one?
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My ep70 has 258k km...
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I think you buy spare parts from the dealers.
But same specialists do rebuilt them.
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Isn't your rpm hunting when warm? If not check that the throttle is all the way closed
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Put on some 4efe or 5efe injectors. 4efte injectors are too big for n/a.
Vac line/pipe size
in Engines
Posted
Most are 4mm