TrisK

I was told that the sticking accelerator problem was a load of bull.

Read somewhere that out of all the cases they checked the data from the ecu and in most cases the brake pedal was never touched????

Fair point mate, but i bet your mum/nan/next door neighbour hasnt read that.

Thats the problem with being a big company like Toyota. Its all about reputation (How many people havent bought Peugot for the "french crap" thinking? Look what happened with Rover/MG due to their headgasket problems). I think big media scares like this could be the beginging of a slippery slope

This ones affects the fuel lines on 8 years worth of avensis (2000 - 2008, 2 litre and 2.4 litre) and also the Lexus IS 250 (2007 - 2009).

Japan's transport ministry said slight cracks could appear in fuel pipes which may cause leakages if untreated.

"If [the car] continues to be used, the crack may be widened and there may be risks of fuel leakage," it said in a statement.

I do worry how this is going to affect Toyota's reputation. With this and the sticky accelerator problem from last year.

Are people going to be worried and think "maybe ill get that nice i10 instead of the Aygo"?.

Personally, it doesnt really bother me. If there is a recall the chance of it affecting your car is quite low. And leaking/cracking fuel lines should of been picked up in servicing and other routine stuff.

But im sure i can see my mum/aunty/girlfriend having concerns about the safety of Toyota's now.

See I'm thinking as per my link you could do it with relays and wire

If it was an option even better, we can rep the official part. Or if we can get a part #

well the plan is to buy one that is not going to make me run lean.

so i could get something mapped for 0.1 bar of boost and then it runs lean anyway

or one that advances timing too much, then bye bye ringlands..oh this is far too complicated haha

why would you need an after market alarm? im sure you could find the wire going to the ecu. hopefully.

I already have remote central locking....

is there any way to tell what they were mapped for?

a code or sticker or anything? or just look at the car it came out of?

has anyone got any recomendations of Blitz vs JAM ecu?

Also, do all JAM/Blitz ECUs have the same map/set up?

As in did they all leave the factory teh same and then they "learn" to your car/driving style?

anyone every tried something like this:

http://www.vikash.info/fto/auto_mirror/autolock.asp

to make the mirrors automatically fold in when you central lock?

PM About a front towing eye

What is this?

Somebody is marketing it as a whole ECU. but its just a piggy back for fuel and timing?

How much should i be looking to pay for one of these?

How easy are they to fit?

And will they remove the need for a FPR on a glanza on higher boost?

Thanks

has anyone got any info on this front lip? what kind is it?

well just took these here is a pretty standard looking ecu, right?

and just ftr, here is a picture of my actuator arm, you can see where it is threaded oin the right hand side:

If I have a a FCD then surely I can't have an aftermarket ecu

well its a 0.99kg/cm2 according to my turbo timer (peak), it stablies on the guage about 0.9kg/cm2 . which is about 1 bar isnt it?

i presume i have a HKS actuator (i cant really see, but it is definately threaded, and looks like an HKS, although i cant see the end to see the logo) but im guessing creap wouldnt take me that high, would it?

Also it came from Japan like that (so its not some pikey that has turned it up) as i am the 1st UK owner, and i have had it a year, and she is 100% fine.

i read it will run me lean as it 'tricks' the ecu into thinking you are running less boost than you are (so it doesnt cut), this means the ecu fuels for the level of boost it 'thinks' you are running. which is lean (as you are boosting higher than it realises)

is this not right?

So JAM ecu is about 500 quid.

how easy are they to get hold of?

If i was to go for a RRFPR how much is that? and would i need to replace hte injectors? (My mate said, that 'even if the fuel pressure is higher, if the injectors are shut you are still going to run lean', is that true)

i have a starlet glanza that is running 1 bar of boost with a HKS actuator, air filter and blitz exhaust.

I have a JAM fcd to stop me from hitting fuel cut.

obviously this means that at higher boost i am probably running lean.

for this reason i am weighing up getting a RRFPR, again a piggyback ecu/standalone ecu

i live in Guernsey in the Channel Islands, which means any RR or professional mappers are a boat ride, and a long drive away. for this reason i would need a 'learning' ECU or something that would give me enough to still be able to safely drive without a map.

can anyone outline advantages/disadvantages/costs/recomended products/availabilty of said product for each of the following ideas:

1. RRFPR(Standard Injectors + ECU + JAM Racing FCD)

2. Piggyback ECU

3. Standalone ECU

I really dont knwo what to do!

test fitted these:

i like them but not worth getting rid of the te37s for :/

although i am tempted by some bbs wheels or something, slam it spacers and go for the hellaflush/sortaflush look :/

yeah im hoping it doesnt rip off haha. but yeah, the cost of a lowered car haha. when i get my splitter on its only going to be worse for scraping (hopefully just the bottom of the splitter)

although over all, im very happy with how clean the bottom the glanza looks in that photo. after a year over here

where can i get either an oem splitter like one:

or a jam racing one.

ive seem jam racing reps, but they seem expensive new! anyone got anything to suggest?

Tonight, after lowering my car so more the other week, i had to go into my mates girlfriends estate for the first time (im now about 20mm lower, maybe more)

and this is now the state of downpipe

sad times

Sweel little V ya have there...

Cheers matey

Cant ^^^^ Landscape pics only

Was my offer on the rear lights not good enough mate? lol

Yeah, im gonna see if i can get a better resolution one, then ill crop it down.

ill let you know matey, just wanna see what they are actually worth first

yeah nothing wrong with the stock FPR its the fact that the FCD is potentialy making the car run lean... having a RRFPR means you can up the fuel rail pressure so you run richer through the whole rev range, meaning where the ecu is leaning out top end its now not. if that makes sence lol

injectors should be all good upto 200bhp

Any particular brand or seller to go for for the RRFPR? or fitting information? is it a home do-able job?

Two quick ones showing the new lowness:

Sorry for the quality, taken on my phone. also will try and get a picture of my downpipe, its rather battered :/ although its a fair half inch or so lower than the sump, so im glad that gets battered before the sump does

would need a fmic to run a S bonnet.

Yeah, thats my problem, oh well. ill deal with the misfire til then. gonna smear some vaseline round the top of the ht leads this weekend.

Car looks wicked! could do with a wheel aligmnet by the look of it lol. might wanna think about getting a RRFPR and a quick trip to a RR before you do to much else.

new engine would cost alot more then a new front lip thats for sure

Yeah im gonna get a laser alignment this weekend i think.

Could somebody link me to a RRFPR, and a fitting guide if there is one?

I was talking to my mate whos a mechanic, and he seemed to think that without bigger injectors, the standard FPR would be fine. Although he is no glanza expert.

i think ill go for killmats group buy that is on at the moment.

Can anyone tell me if i should go for Stainless or Mild?

According to the group buy, all of his decats are braced, so that is good.

Looks immense mate!!

Where you from?

Thanks mate.

From Guernsey, in the Channel Islands. (Its how I managed to insure a Glanza V at 18. (Although I'm nearly 20 now, and boy is the insurance going down now)

Yeah get rid of those tinted lights, not a good look!

By the way that Cupra splitter above looks a bit dodgy, they didnt cut the slats in the centre which is why it looks bent lol

Should look like this when trimmed: http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/low...100530-1556.jpg

Thanks mate, id actually loooked at yours in another thread which was one of the reasons that made me want one

Here we are...

Thanks buddy, given me a much better idea of what it would look like.

Does anyone know how rare/expensive the JAM ones are to come accross? I dont mind second hand, or even replica if i have to.