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Posts posted by TrisK
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if its rings youll be down on compressionJust gonna bump this up, turbos been rebuilt and hybrid-ised by Liam at midland turbo, it still smokes, gahhhh!
There is a small amount of oil the intercooler pipe but not enough to cause the smoking I'm having
So could it be stem seals or rings?
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No. 20mm wider track with my method.Ah sound, I see what you mean now! I suppose your one sits wider then? Or have you kept the original track?
Had no issues with strength tbh with my use of the car, 4 high tensile bolts as I'm sure you've seen if Mikey sent you pics
Do you know what rating bolts Mikey used? Hoping he might pipe up with some details
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Okay, maybe TUV approved to VW, but not legal to Starlet anyhow, because it shouldn't be possible do any cut and paste modifation to factory axle. It is possible and can be done, but MOT inspector can't allow that modification in any EU country. If inspector sees that blue plastic in solid orginally welded hub, it fails. Only wanna remind people this gray area, dangerous things to modify when talking about street legal cars, trackcars are different story. Just wanna say that be carefull and know what You are doing
That's not true of the UK system. You can change anything you like as long as it's completely a high standard and is safe. You can change any mounting points, suspension characteristics, body shape anything. As long as the quality of the work is good
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That's the way I was originally going to do it. Cut down the middle and bolt it back onI just realised you're using two. I'm not sure it was two, but it looks like mine bolts up the same way as yours.
But when some stubs for quite cheap came up we revised the method. Also on inspection it looks like the splines are welded from the back. So by only using one I would be slightly concerned about the strength of it
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They are made by Eibach who know what they are doing generallyFound it, plastic shim, not coming to my car...
And they are TUV approved. So I think the risk is mjnimal
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Tbf, he normallly is quite good. if you send him detailed photos he will normally just send a replacement part, in my experience anywaysYeah tris, about the screamer? No, not like I'm gonna post a screamer to Sri Lanka aha, got my mate to sort it for me
The quality of the actual mani is really good, the rest just doesn't seem to have as much effort put into it
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Perhaps I'm not trying hard enough, but I'm yet to go beyond the limits of my chassis.
I haven't driven a Honda on track to compare, but I've plenty of seat time in a friends R53 Mini Challenge car, there's not much between them.
People are quick to rubbish ep*'s because they don't have IRS, probably helps the others, but it's not the be all and end all.
I have an ep3 as a daily, and have done quite a bit of track time in it, i would say it certianly gives you a lot more confidence than the starlet chasis, but the feedback from a starlet means that they arent impossible to drive fast, you just to have be prepared from some understeer.
A civic is definately easier to drive fast, but atleast on the circuits ive driven (les mans, silverstone, fontennay, maison blanche) that the starlet would be far behind, i also think the additional legs on the srraights could potential make it a faster car
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Did yours require two axles too Amjad?I think mine were done the same way Tris, you'll love it when it's done! Been running mine 3 years hard road and track use, such a worthwhile mod.
Went from -1.25/-2 F/R to -2/-1.2 rear to help negate understeer and it feels great. Some toe out on the front would help but I want to minimise tyre wear while the GT is still my daily
or was it all done with one?
How does that blue shims work, plactic adjusting mold for metal plate? My country not legal anyway, can't modify anything, so have to do very original looking patent. Any links for that VW Lupo system?
The blue shim is two plates, one adjusts camber and one adjusts toe. you spin the discs to be aligned to the spec you want and then install it like a spacer between the axle and the stub axle
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The blue shims add the camber and toe colinthe only way i see camber added is if the spindles are machined at an angle ?? is that how its done ?
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You'll always hear a million good reviews for wepr.
I had a bad experience, not great customer service and my screamer cracked open, which was actually spotted by whitenoise lol
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Did you purchase the kit new? did you try contacting WEPR?
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There's a girl in Australia that has done a k24 swapSomeone's done a k20 I think .. I swear there is a build thread somewhere on here
Seems pointless though.
why swop boost for VTEC when it's just as complex to install, maybe more expensive and makes less power.
If you turbocharged the k20 you would have a monster but it won't be cheap.
She spends a lot of time on track
https://noisyninja.wordpress.com/
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Just put a relay in.
A 4 pin NO (normally open) relay should do it
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So I need to start this by thanking my two best mates, Kieran and Flint.
They are amazing and make my stupid ideas not so stupid and actually do things, otherwise my ideas would simply remain ideas.
Kieran is an engineer/welder by trade and Flint is just Flint, give him any power tool and he'll get on with it.
So I've wanted rear camber on the GT for quite a while, and have looked at the way that other people have done it, Grant and Mikey and taken some inspiration from that. Originally I was planning on just following the way that they have done it, but with Kieran's help and advice, the way it was done has changed slightly and I think its for the better, resulting in more strength and a safer set up.
So, I had a set of stub axles that had been roughly chopped off a glanza beam by grant and sent to me a year or two ago.
Last weekend, I finally got the rear axle down the workshop and Kieran and Flint got straight to work, whilst I pranced around asking stupid questions and taking photos:
Here are the stub axles in question recived from grant. The first thing to do was to remove the majority of the material from the back of the stub axle chop and then get it in the lathe.
at that point Kieran then lathed material off the back until we had a completly flat face:
This was then checked with a micrometer to check it was even across the whole face. Kieran took several readings, and the average came out at 21.7mm, there was a discrepancy of less than half a mm across the face, We decided this was within acceptable tolerances.
The next part was to chop the beam off, So again Kieran got cutting and removed the stub nose from the stub axle on the beam:
Flint then got the grinding disk out and being careful not to touch the rest of the plate flatted down the last few mm of the stub axle
Once these were ground back they were checked with engineer layout fluid, and found to be flat
The next thing was to get the stub axles in the pillar drill and drill them through so they could be bolted back to the axle
This is currently as far as I've got. I am currently waiting for some High Tensile bolts to be delivered - m12 x 1.25 - 12.9 Strength.
These will be used to bolt the stub axle and the braking backing plate to the beam.
The alignment will be adjust by use of a shim like the example below on a lupo:
The advantage of doing it this way and utilising two rear axles are as below:
Increase in track, like spacers, but much less load on the bearings
When inspecting the stub axles, it appears the nose of the axle is welded right the way through, so attempting to cut the stub axle from the beam may compromise some of the strength in the stub axle, this could potentially lead to your whole rear wheel assembly falling off in the event of a catastrophic failure. This method means all the material is still there and should hopefully result in the maximum strength
I will update this post once the bolts and my polybushes have arrived. Then hopefully the modified axle should be going on the car in the next week or two
again its necessary to thank Kieran and Flint for all their help/doing it for me.
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Sounds like an earth to me
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Does anyone have one spare?
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can you post the DET3 pin out?
and are you 98 spec wiring?
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France is next door. Someone on the micra stand drove 1000miles from sweden ;)
I came from Guernsey. That's pretty much France 😂
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That's a live. It earths to the boss. So put one spade on horn button. With the other put a lead on a spade and earth it out
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It was ok. I guess
Cheers for the laugh lads and lasses. Same again next year
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Cracking to meet you mate. Cars a beauty!
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Seen Calvin about 5 or 6 times now, firstly back at T in 2010 when no cunt knew who was!
Only acts ive not seen outta that lot ^ are Mistajam, not my kinda genera tbh.
Nervo would have been good to see, hope they do a tour soon, should have a good support act aswell
i thought the same with MistaJam, it was my Mrs that suggested it.
Its a bit light and poppy, but being a big radio DJ he definately knows how to get people dancing and enjoying it
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wish i had more room behind TOMs New Actions. Stunning looking
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Jack U were amazing, dimitri vegas and like mike were awesome
Hardwell and nervo were awesome
Calvin harris and Avicci were let downs
Suprises for the weekend for me has to be MistaJam and Fat Boy Slim two that i wasnt that bothered about seeing that absolutely nailed it
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Who was your act of the festival! Has to be jack ü for meManaged to survive, duno how. Had to leave the mansion there aswell. Due to excessive female slime.
Roll on next year!
Fordie's td04 desert sage glanza. skirt extentions on and new splitter :)
in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs
Posted
Dunno how I've missed this build before. What a stunner!