dwd

Hey guys,

Im currently running an n/a 5efe engine (standard with 4-2-1 decat Manifold, K&N panel filter) on a Jap 4efe ECU (with Rev limiter removed). I didn't get a 5efe ECU with the engine and have read that it wont work with the 4e loom anyway so never got one. Ive been doing a bit of reading about ECU piggy backs but it seems like a pretty expensive option. Would it be a good solution in my situation?

Im also still have the one litre back box on it, would that cause much power loss? Im not a fan of aftermarket exhausts

No the light doesn't come on. I don't drive it very often so don't really keep track of what fuel is in it. It did cross my mind that its most economical starlet in the world though

Have you checked the battery voltage when running?

I cant remember but I pretty sure it used to go down when switched off.

I disconnected the battery and it moved down slighted.

And its definitely not infinite because I ran out

No ive replaced the pump and full float mechanism

I changed the pump but it still stays on full even when the car is switched off.

Any ideas?

Hi guys,

Im having a problems thats driving me crazy. I converted a 1 litre carb starlet to 5efe (injected). It drives fine up in the revs but on idle it goes up and down a bit. It revs cleaning but when driving there is a spot in low revs that it stubbles a bit and then clears and revs out find. But the wierdest part is that when I turn on the indicator it jerks violently. Can anyone help me?

Cool thanks

Hey I have a 5efe engine but have no details of the car it came from to order a clutch with. Do all 5e's have the same clutch fitment? Will I be safe ordering a clutch for any 1.5 Cynos?

If its a Quaife ATB the opposite wheel will not turn but it will feel stiff to spin the wheel by hand

I have a Cusco LSD in a n/a type starlet box. It been in it for a while and has worked perfect.

I noticed a few weeks back that it started to leak gear oil at the shaft inputs, so I got some new seals, presuming I damaged them when fitting the drives. But when I was fitting them I realised there is some play in the diff. I can slightly move the Inner CV up and down with my hand on both sides (about 1mm play). Also when sliding in an out the cv on one side (maybe 5mm), its moves the same amount on the other side. I know a bit of play in and out is normal but I never seen both side moving together.

The other weird thing which I guess is related, is the speedo works when im accelerating but dropped to zero when I lift off. Does it run off the crown wheel?

Obviously I will have to strip the box but has anyone else had a similar problem? Im guessing its the roller bearings?

Well it needs to be high and soft. A lot of loose gravel tests in quarries etc.

Has KYBs, poly bumpstops and ARB

This is what im using the car for:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuGV9E5fNdo

Its still 4efe in the vid, you can see why I'll be keeping the power steering

I would imagine gearing and turbo lag would have a lot to do with that

I seen a few cynos 5efe OBX manifolds on ebay, will they fit a starlet? Will it be too long?

Im considering getting a 4 branch manifold made which will also get rid of the cat for an otherwise standard n/a 5efe.

Im just curious have people got a noticeable improvement from fitting them to n/a 4efe's and 5efe/5efhe's? Or better still rolling road figures before and after.

I have found no factual data for these mods to starlets.

Anyone any experiences?

The ECU in the car above is

89661-10120

211000-0540

Daniel the car it was in originally was a 95 (think it was a soliel),

has this manifold

I have an ECU here that I believe is from 95 JDM 4efe

The codes are

89661-10140

211000-3030

(Black sticker)

Anyone know if this is a 100bhp type one?

Thanks for the help guys. Some useful info there.

Do you think if I put pink injectors in that 4efe and an early 100bhp ECU it, would spring some life into it?

I have a n/a 4efe starlet (Import), I have suspicions that the engine has been changed to a 4efte (running as n/a). Is there anyway I can identify the block and head are 4efte? It has the extra water way between the head and inlet manifold. After a lot of searching, it looks like this was only ever in 4efte heads. Can anyone confirm that this is correct? The other weird thing is it has green injectors, which I don't think is correct either. Its definitely not as powerful as another jdm 4efe I have, I suspect this is due to the low compression of the turbo engine or would the injectors being too small make such a difference? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah well I though I was buying a 99bhp 4e. But dont the 5efe's have pink injectors too? and the 5efhe have brown?

(resisting pink or brown jokes )

Hi Guys,

I have a UK spec 92 carb starlet that i converted to a jap import 4efe a while back. The engine is getting tired now so I got a damaged jap spec ep82 to get the engine from for a replacement. I only just made the surprise discovery that the car I bought has 5e stamped on the block. The guy I bought it from knows nothing about this so must be in it for some time.

So Ive been doing some investigating and I think its a 5efe (not a 5efhe), it has a built in coil, no harmonic balancer, pink injectors, inlet looks the same as 4efe, and it has a 4efe ECU. The info Ive found from searching seems to point at it being a 5efe I think.

Anyway my question is, since the car is wired for jap 4efe (with built in coil), will it just fit straight in or is there further loom mods needed?

I have an starlet endurance rally car and Ive had the rear shock arm come up through the top mounts twice. Is this a common problem and is there any way to prevent this. I presume adjustable top mounts would be the ultimate way to solve it but they seem to be very expensive and I cant find any for a starlet anyway.

Any help appreciated

thanks in advance.

On the 2e engine is it clockwise or anti clockwise to advance?