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bajansuperman

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Posts posted by bajansuperman

  1. Cutting the axle and adding shims seems a bit pikey to me..

    Swap the axle out for a proper IRS setup.

    This ones a pic of a mx5 subframe, do away with the rwd stuff, plenty of aftermarket arms etc available, the wheelbase cant be far off, better brake setup, 4x100 stud pattern.

    Has this ever been done would be sweet for the track

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  2. Hi, currently experiencing some electrical difficulty with my passenger side door and rear view mirror they stopped working together is there some kind of relay\fuse I should know of

    Thanks

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  3.  

    Would you not have had to drill and re-tap the threads if their larger? Or do you mean you've got studs?

     

    Try the gasket Colin has mentioned, I would be claying the motor just to be sure of valve to piston clearances.

    Yes would require drill and retap

    And will be getting the gasket

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  4. If I use a standard gasket compression would be around 140 150 which I'm trying to avoid with the head gasket, would like to be running 20psi of boost if possible and I currentlly have a t517z which is basically a tdo5 16g so the standard head gasket compression would not be ideal

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  5.  the ae100/ae110 rear suspension set up actually crossed my mind too....but still a fair bit of effort and cost

    i just dont see an "easy" way to achieve it....that's why i think most people have just upgraded the stock set up over the years and with decent results too

     

    a proper fabricated independent rear set up would be cool though  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

    That's the idea I had but money wise your right, but if I had the tools I would attempt it with guidance

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  6. one option id considered was a 4 link system fabricated to fit with a very basic rear axle setup.

     

    by the time you do all the fabricating as cheaply as possible and source the necessary parts (brakes etc) to make it work, 

     

    1k minimum more like 1.5k

     

    2k would be comfortable.

     

     

     

    Phil

    Thanks phil

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  7. that's going to be a lot of custom work and parts....the cost may make this prohibitive for the benefit you will get from it

    for the average joe, it may be better to spend less money on coilovers, tires, bushings, arb, braces, etc.

    Seems that way was trying to see what ideas people had as I was planning to build this car for just track days consulted apart of Neils team and he said its all time patience and headaces his was fitted with puma s1600 rear

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  8. sorry for the late drop in...but i'll add my two cents

    i've personally been involved in running 5efhe pistons in a 4efte with gt rods----stock build....it was an experiment at first as we had no idea what would happen and how reliable it would be .....it turned out to be very reliable and quite responsive off boost too 

     

    this car ran a td04L with emu and was tuned to run 18/20psi on pump gas....ran well for a long time

     

    it can be done....it just needs to be tuned properly---fuel AND ignition (using some sort of detonation listening device)

    Currently running 10psi in my 5e block think comp is around 210 greddy turbo needs a porper clutch to step up but these set ups just need fuel

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  9. Its not they are 1600's this is a 1800. The cam covers on FA engines are raised towards the cam gears whereas these are stock 16v 4age cam covers.

    Finding the parts for a FA engine is hard enough and prob cost more than custom parts lol

    I put money on this being a custom hi-comp 7age 16v build.

    Just had a quick read up on it, it used to run a hasslegren (formula atlantic engine builders) 4age but now runs a hasslegren built 7age with a similar spec'd build to that of the 4age.

    So essentially its a 7age formula atlantic engine which is mostly custom shizzle

    Hasslegren

    http://hasselgren.com/toyota-4ag-4age/

    this is an 1800cc hasslegren we have a few here

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