bajansuperman

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf

I have the same problem can take a pic of your wires please not sure if mine is single are double

Lots of DIY wish i had that much tools and machines

new dizzy cap new plugs new wires

can any one tell me what is the cause of this i changed plugs and wires so those r fine, my fpr is set at 20 stock injectors standard ecu wideband show car idle at 11s to 12s when all four cylinders are working and 17s and up when spark in cylinder one is out

ok fix couple thing but still not starting and gettin code 51

most of what is being said in that link is happening plus the car's not starting and i'm running a bigger turbo so running a little rich is a plus for me till in get the money to put in my management..........also i having the same chatter he's getting but from the compressor houseing would the same map sensor problem cause this

think it was 31 and 35 some where in that range would have to take a look again and o2 senso4 removed usein wide band

thanks

would a bad map sensor cause these problem, hard starting (taking a while too start) , over fueling, low vacuum,low idle, staling and misfireing at high rpms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyVd8VD_H4Q

This is my video from inside the car from japfest 2. Need to mount the camera further forward for next year. This was my first time out in the car since last year and since then there has been a lot of changes roll cage etc. and my first time around donnington which is a really good track.

I did go into the chicane abit fast ha and make a few mistakes so could have been a lot quicker.

very nice piloting there bud

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aSg3JTCd9E

this car is very impressive

old pics tint removed rims getting some paint

bought an ultimate as well, getting the exhaust leaks fixed and then in goes the ecu

current status of the car at the moment

it"s soo surprising the lack of information for a problem that happens so often hahahahaha will have to try and do one if i get it done

ok is there a topic on how to disconnect the cable on one side as i'm having a little trouble doing this. by the T junctions under the car how do i get the cable out of there?

I had the exact same problem recently, if the little seal on the end of the cable is broken down water can collect in the cable as it dips down before heading up again.

Pull off the offending cable, spray some WD40 down there and work it until it's free. Then check that your caliper works, there is like a ratchet system in there so pull on the lever a few times and make sure it stops the wheel. If not then rebuild it with a kit from toyota.

Then adjust the handbrake inside the cabin. In my case it was just the cable siezed up.

do i take the cable completely off the car and remove d rubber guards r do i take it off at d brake and just spray it down the guard without removing it

what exactly would i have to grease on the caliper the spring mechanism?

when i engage my handbrake both sides lock's but when i disengage only one side unlock's and i have manually pull the little leaver on the caliper back to unlock it. how do i fix this problem THANKS

prices

i second this post same problem

saw a vid of @socks car chatter at low rpm but not in high which is the way it should be?

>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o84WSKgRjXs