haggis Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Gents,Did an offshore stint and decided to treat my car ( don't tell the misses ) to a JAM AT ECU...I bought the glanza standard automatic and have since removed AC, Ugraded to SS, oil change and fitted De-Cat. today i fitted the ECU and wow , it's like a completely different car although I want to make sure I don't end up blowing the engine.My questions are:● is running it how it is okay for now without boost control● is it okay to run without aftermarket exhaust manifold until I can afford one● uprated fuel pump ?It's running nice but just want to he sure , basically don't want my engine popping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haggis Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Also read this from the wiki tuning guide :Fuel Cut Defenders are devices which allow you to go beyond the factory fuel cut limiter by raising that limit. At this point youre where your engine can be destroyed in minutes if youre not VERY careful. Without excess fuel pressure and an aftermarket ECU to control your system, its only going to end in tears. Aftermarket ECUs have raise the fuel cut limiter so a fuel cut defender is something I would suggest avoiding!What does it mean " without excess fuel pressure and ecu ..."How to I increase fuel pressure or does the JAM ecu take care of this ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 get a wideband installed and a hks actuator but port the stock manifold 1st dont increase fpr !!! als no fcd spd etc etc needed with the p&p Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 (edited) If you do not have a HKS FCD fitted you will not need to worry about that particular issue. But the Jam ECU will not have been mapped for your specific setup. but like any ECU there will be a large table of values for Fuel/Ignition/Map that all relate to each other What has been proven is that these ECUs rarely overfuel horribly at idle so long as you are using a stock FPR. (so one could safely assume they were mostly mapped for stock injectors) then given the information the ECU has at its disposal so long as the original owner wasn't flowing alot more air at the same boost you should also see ballpark/good AFRS. You may not be quite on the path of the original owners WOT curve so you may find it abit lean or rich - but again usually nothing to worry about and often erring on the side of rich. ^^^ thats the general consensus as ive picked it up others agree or disagree. Phil Edited April 11, 2016 by Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haggis Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks Phil and Colin your help is appreciated! It's like a different car...I was thinking about porting the standard Mani but thought it might be worth just getting a new one. Trying to find a tutorial for fitting manifold, hoping I don't have to remove the radiator like I did for decat as that was a bit shady Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Manifold+and+turbo+removal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haggis Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks patman, it appears that I do have to remove the radiator. Last time I did this I almost lost all my transmission fluid from autobox Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Just take your time haggis mate and if need be take front bumper off too if your not on a ramp, give yourself a good day to do it, I know it's a pain in the ass but it's worth it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haggis Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Yeh man good advice. I just need to chill out a bit I think haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I know that feeling mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) at minimum i'd suggest a ported stock mani as collin stated...but you can also try to purchase a good used one from the sales section----for sure do NOT buy one of those poorly built ones that seem prone to cracking no uprated or bigger injectors pump needed........you dont need a FCD either i'd suggest you run some decent octane pump gas,,,and get your afr/knock/boost checked together at a dyno/tuner if you are using the stock mani, keep the boost at stock levels for now---maybe 9/10psi max if you get and uprated mani then you can increase boost at the dyno when everything can be monitored please watch your rev limit...some of these ecus have 8000/8500rpm limit and the car may not be making any power there,,,,just putting stress on your engine....you could do some real damage....some people say the glanza rods are not as strong as the gt rods Edited April 12, 2016 by gorganl2000 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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