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Running Issues with the V!!


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Hi All,



Not sure if anyone can help but worth a shot.



Had my rocker cover polished a few weeks back with AN-10 fittings welded to a catch can and swapped a pipe on the CT9 Aculator from old to a new one (left for a few months) and now the car will run for 30 mins and die. Electrics seem fine as the alarm arms and no dials are lost but power is cut.



Just an example took it into the local garage they thought that they had fixed the problem got to the end of the road and had to get a tow back....



Once the power is cut, i'm then able to start put it into gear try again and it won't even start....



Any one have any ideas?


Edited by X_Milch_X
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Starts up fine will drive it for a mile or 2 and then will cut power and will be unable to start.

Garage thought the cover had lifted so tightened right down but no joy.

Edited by X_Milch_X
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The cover lifting would make it run poor but would still run, when you say it cuts out and just dies when you try and start it will the engine crank or nothing?

Edited by 4e_FTe
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Cover lifting would have no effect

The cover lifting would make it run poor but would still run, when you say it cuts out and just dies when you try and start it will the engine crank or nothing?

I didn't think that would resolve it but gave him the benefit of the doubt.

Have you checked he fuel pump?

I fitted a new one not long back and it packed in a month after would start the car fine run for a min then it would die

Coil or fuelpump maybe, first to check.

Think I will ask the mechanic to check this over next, had a phone call from him today stating that he has ordered a new distributor cap and rotor arm as mine have burnt out.

Will find out next weekend if it does the trick. :sad:

Edited by X_Milch_X
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Coil is easy to test, because independent unit, just swap one from somebody who has same engine, any friends near?

Fuelpump can tested with extra fuelpressure gauge. Big Toyota services had that remote gauge meters and You have to test it under boost specially and at street driving needed with gauge on windscreen wiper. I have burnt few fuelpumps in carburator tank, and those were working normal idle, but dies under boost. First You need motor running naturally, test pump from diagnostic plug, connect E1 and FPR with wire, so can eliminate that it's not dead.

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Coil is easy to test, because independent unit, just swap one from somebody who has same engine, any friends near?

Fuelpump can tested with extra fuelpressure gauge. Big Toyota services had that remote gauge meters and You have to test it under boost specially and at street driving needed with gauge on windscreen wiper. I have burnt few fuelpumps in carburator tank, and those were working normal idle, but dies under boost. First You need motor running naturally, test pump from diagnostic plug, connect E1 and FPR with wire, so can eliminate that it's not dead.

Thanks for the advice but will let you know how i get on :thumbsup:

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  • 5 weeks later...

Still no joy, i'm wondering if the issue is to do with installing the catch can and blocking the pcv valve as the engine seems to get extremely hot and then cut any thoughts?

coil and pump fine maybe a bit rich?

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The garage you went to with engine cutting out issues tightened down the rocker cover? Am i reading that right or did i miss something?

Its hard to guess as your being slightly vague in your description. We need to know what happens when it cuts out what lights come on the dash what happens when u try starting it afterwards all of these things.

Have you tried another battery? Amazing the issues a fucked battery can cause.

Also. Its got fuck all to do with the catch can unless its installed horrifically wrong.

Edited by StuDoc 72
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To be honest there are only a few things that can be wrong. You can run our engines with only the injectors and dizzy (coil,ignitor) connected, no rocker cover and wide open throttle and it still won't do what your describing until it eventually runs a bearing, gets hot and siezes

Either you have an ignition problem

(Open dizzy, check no wires are touching they can sag when hot) an ecu problem, fuel pump problem or your engine keep seizing.

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To be honest there are only a few things that can be wrong. You can run our engines with only the injectors and dizzy (coil,ignitor) connected, no rocker cover and wide open throttle and it still won't do what your describing until it eventually runs a bearing, gets hot and siezes

Either you have an ignition problem

(Open dizzy, check no wires are touching they can sag when hot) an ecu problem, fuel pump problem or your engine keep seizing.

All wires appear to be fine, will replace the fuel pump and see.

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what exactly happens when the problem occurs? what power cuts? does the electrics cut or engine cut?

Difficult to describe but the issue seems to generate itself under load.

The car starts and idles fine but as soon as it goes into gear or the lights are on the car just cuts, I have now paid for the Glanza to be shipped to a specialist close to me see what he thinks.

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The garage you went to with engine cutting out issues tightened down the rocker cover? Am i reading that right or did i miss something?

Its hard to guess as your being slightly vague in your description. We need to know what happens when it cuts out what lights come on the dash what happens when u try starting it afterwards all of these things.

Have you tried another battery? Amazing the issues a fucked battery can cause.

Also. Its got fuck all to do with the catch can unless its installed horrifically wrong.

Replaced the battery first

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