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hard to get gears after gearbox swap


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hi can anyone tell me why i cant get gears when car is running fine when cars off

i swapped the gearbox out yesterday gearbox i fitted 12v efi starlet 1.3 box fitted no problem

can get all gears when its off when i start car cant get gears and even when clutch is full depressed its hard to get into or out gears and when i press clutch doesn't stop wheels turning

need car for Tuesday

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Clutch needs bleeding, master or slave is faulty, clutch fork is bent/damaged, clutch plate is bent, pressure plate is faulty/damaged, release bearing is too short.

One of those lol. Shorten the list by answering this:

Why did you change the box?

Did you change the clutch/pressure plate?

Did you use the release bearing from the old box?

Did you disconnect the fluid line from the slave cylinder when you removed the box?

Is the slave cylinder leaking at all? (Pull the boot off to have a closer look, should be dry)

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bled clutch ,slave cylinder has been changed, have two original one from 4 speed and 5speed both same



changed it due to doing more longer journeys and it needed the extra gear



i didn't change clutch or pressure plate as i didn't think they would be an issue as both are 12v boxes



yes re used old release bearing wasn't growling or whirring when foot on or off clutch



no i removed both 12mm bolts as just moved it out of the way so no need for bleeding clutch



no original was replacement is fine not leaking




seems i have come to the conclusion is the flywheel and clutch flywheel is to narrow thickness wise so basically box is sitting into clutch fine but isn't close enough for the release bearing to fully disengage the clutch plate



basically when i pressed the clutch the pressure plate wasn't pushing the clutch disc far enough away from flywheel causing the disc to drag on flywheel


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bled clutch ,slave cylinder has been changed, have two original one from 4 speed and 5speed both same

changed it due to doing more longer journeys and it needed the extra gear

i didn't change clutch or pressure plate as i didn't think they would be an issue as both are 12v boxes

yes re used old release bearing wasn't growling or whirring when foot on or off clutch

no i removed both 12mm bolts as just moved it out of the way so no need for bleeding clutch

no original was replacement is fine not leaking

seems i have come to the conclusion is the flywheel and clutch flywheel is to narrow thickness wise so basically box is sitting into clutch fine but isn't close enough for the release bearing to fully disengage the clutch plate

basically when i pressed the clutch the pressure plate wasn't pushing the clutch disc far enough away from flywheel causing the disc to drag on flywheel

you sure clutch is bled properly just reading through that it says first thing was bled clutch but then you say you didnt bleed it ? just checking as you changed the slave cylinder. could be picking this up wrong doh

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Flywheels are the same size only the contact surface diameter and the pcd of the pressure plate differ on them from 1e/2e/4e/3e/5e although 3e and 5e also differ from the rest in crank pcd.

He didnt change the slave but he did bleed it after he realised the problem.

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you sure clutch is bled properly just reading through that it says first thing was bled clutch but then you say you didnt bleed it ? just checking as you changed the slave cylinder. could be picking this up wrong doh

i didn't bled clutch when i first got the box in i tried to get gears and couldn't

so i bled the clutch then i noticed the weeping from slave cylinder so i changed the slave cylinder and bled the clutch again

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Flywheels are the same size only the contact surface diameter and the pcd of the pressure plate differ on them from 1e/2e/4e/3e/5e although 3e and 5e also differ from the rest in crank pcd.

He didnt change the slave but he did bleed it after he realised the problem.

so a 4efe flywheel is same thickness only surface size is bigger i just thought the 4efe flywheel was thicker meant by that the clutch sat further out more into the gearbox

meaning the clutch fork could depress the clutch away more from flywheel

could a worn out clutch be the cause off all this ie thickness and worn pressure plate fingers not able to push the clutch far enough away

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Nope. did you remove the clutch at all? I think your clutch disk is damaged.

If it was worn you wouldnt have this problem.

Clutch fork

Clutch disk

Thats all that's causing this going by your info

i didn't remove clutch first i just dropped 4 speed out and fitted the 5 speed only thing i did was swap release bearing out of the 4 speed and into the 5 speed

here's a pic of my clutch disc

20160710_110318_zpsxlejzv4t.jpg

20160710_110333_zpsq2xovyyi.jpg

the pressure plate

20160710_110404_zpsxonih0ss.jpg

Edited by JDMfreak
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Have you checked the clutch pedal height?

Had these exact same problems when I did a clutch change on my old gt4 which was an engine out job. Spent ages trying to work out what was wrong and was faced with ripping it all out again when I checked the clutch pedal and found it was too low compared with what was specified. Once readjusted (about 20mm) I had all gears again.

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ive never seen any adjuster on clutch pedal in a starlet i may have a look

Seem to recall on the celica that where the pushrod ran through the pedal it was threaded so once that was adjusted there was enough movement to fully move the cylinder so the clutch disengaged properly

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Seem to recall on the celica that where the pushrod ran through the pedal it was threaded so once that was adjusted there was enough movement to fully move the cylinder so the clutch disengaged properly

you were right theres a threaded adjuster there but it pretty much out at the last

20160710_182720_zps8ayp3pho.jpg

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That looks off center Look at the didifferencenI space on each side from the main body to friction material.Its closer on the left.

Buy a new clutch...

have been offered a 4efe gearbox clutch and flywheel from an 98 starlet for €100 car can be driven before its removed so will know if its any good or not

gonna price a 1e clutch in the morning aswell what about a release bearing will i need a 4efe one or will the 1e do the job

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You dont need the gearbox just get the clutch and flywheel. Even turbo if anyone is breaking theirs. Should get them used for 50euro. Wouldnt pay much more.

ok ill pick them up tomorrow and refit them see how i get on hopefully fingers crossed

your master is leaking to !!!!! new 1 on order soon

that's grease colin i checked it minute i seen it i had to check it out

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you were right theres a threaded adjuster there but it pretty much out at the last

20160710_182720_zps8ayp3pho.jpg

Hmmm, didn't expect to see it that far at the end, may suggest there have been issues in the past.

There does look like there may be a couple of turns left mind, maybe worth trying to see if it helps before more drastic options?

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Hmmm, didn't expect to see it that far at the end, may suggest there have been issues in the past.

There does look like there may be a couple of turns left mind, maybe worth trying to see if it helps before more drastic options?

gearbox is already back out going too fit a 4efe clutch and see how i get on

We had a similar issue to this on a friends civic we just put an extention cap on the slave cylinder pin so it added a bit of extra movement to the clutch arm. Hey presto problem solved lol

we tried this still wouldn't push clutch disc far enough away from flywheel to disengage it

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